ayresy
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Posts posted by ayresy
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Im currently running a RRC v8 rad at the rear of my challenge truck with a 3.9 RV8 up front. Ive got a single large fan and a custom cowl to suck through the whole rad. The fan is on a thermo switch so cuts in and out automatically but is also adjustable as to how sensitive the switch is.
The fan turns on intermittently usually switching off after a few minutes and I dare say 90 % of the time the fan isn't needed. Its never got hot yet even with some right pain !
I think the extra pipework and water volume help greatly with cooling providing kore surface area and deep water runs are good too !! Always a cloud of mist off the cooler pipes when wading which must help it cool a fair bit
Id say it was a brilliant improvemnet as its helped me move my winch back as far as possible at the front too
No in lime water pump either. Gravity does alot of the work
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Put it this way im wire wheeling all the mating surfaces on the axles im building up then undercoating everything else with red oxide primer and thick topcoat alot easier to repair paintwork when it gets damaged than powdercoat
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Cheers for the call today nige I took the diff to a local fabricator today to see what he thought and he said that he would struggle to do it so I might have to visit you in the new year
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Cheers
Derbyshire near ashbourne
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Thanks nige I thought that would be the reply. I need to invest in a TIG tbh theres so much I can use one for
Would you quote me on pegging 2 diffs and quoting on 2 peggings and 2 ashcroft built up diffs (I have all the parts)
I may give it a go ive got a few spare diffs lying about but I expect it may crack by what youre saying. Ive got a beast of an arc a shot blaster and a parts cleaner but if it doesn't take it doesn't take
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Im building up ashcroft lockers and shafts into D2 axles for my challenge truck and adding ashcroft pegging kits to the diffs while im at it. But there doesn't seem to be much instruction on how to DIY the casings. Nige and ashcroft both TIG which I don't have
but would arc work well enough or is it really a tig job ?I would think pre heated casings (not mad hot) a good strong arc and through threading would be adequate but dont want to blow stuff
Cheers guys
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i shall be there
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Im monting my winch in a custom tray on or part of the front crossmember so should hopefully be as far back as possible. Ill remove it for trials too
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just learn how to twin stick. majorly advantageous for driving awesomeness, thats what i do! ill try get a vid one day. my overdrive lever is extended to the same height as the main stick too for ultra awesomeness!
yes you do love showing off
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im not bothered about it being higher at the front as i'm adding a winch and associated kit so it will sit down an inch or so from its current position
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mine has the same springs front and back and the front appears to sit higher ?? 3.9 v8 mounted fairly far back though, thats on 133 springs for trialling flexes brilliantly i would definately reccommend for slower stuff.... not fast corners... ive tried ... it ends upside down
remote res shocks and all shocks infact need nitrogen as its inert.
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mine just has a seperate loom for the engine ive removed alot of wires too that connected to the transfer box and other gearbox related ones, ive just got wiring from the selector sensor so it only startes in park or neutral all the rest are engine related
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Mine are 42mm from memory, mostly steel with rubber joins, not had it runing full noise yet but doesnt get hot road running& thermo fan kicks in though but guess theres no airflow through the rad, so itd going to
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Looking forward to it!
Friend on LZ has just picked up a new rear D80 for his, urm, supercharged big block series 2 build
That will never get finished
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ayresy ive told dad youre using the farm as the testing ground for it. just need to get some front shafts for mine now so i can get to you to winch your truck back onto its wheels!
and show you up in general!
Awesome sauce I just have to finish it first
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It's in !
Sits on original engine mounts and only about 2 inches back on the gearbox, 1 is the same but the other 2 on each side need moving back
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the TC should be fitted all the way back into the gearbox before mating it up to the engine. Otherwise you'll wreck the oil pump.
G
Why would it wreck the oil pump ?
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the key thing is make sure the T/Converter is seated correctly in the gearbox !!!
with some wiggling and touching on the starter motor it went in fine
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Auto is out of the rangie. Time to do some mating
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I'm in ! Blue or yellow though
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Well the manual is out ...
Long live the auto !!
I just want it to drive and run. Haven't got time to tiddle about finding gearboxes cutting the bulkhead making new mounts etc haha
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I hear the pain
If its any use to you, mine is a RRC (series one landrover LRC hybrid) on standard engine mounts with 14" out of the chassis. Rear prop is standard 88" rear prop. Front is the original. The rear rad wasn't a choice, it was a necessity, as the water pump nut is an inch behind a full drum of rope on the milemarker. There is no room at the front at all, but I can get the plugs out without faffing about
Weight distribution is a near pointless argument for me. A light engine on a heavy central gearbox made it a very well balenced trialer. A delight to drive, which I brutalised with stronger front end, front-pulley PTO hyd-pump and milemarker hydraulic.
I know a lot of folk find auto's best for everything, but I find it tricky for trialing. But for challenge its spot on for winch and drive, without digging yourself in as you progress. You will need a good auto oil cooler though, and the maybe the kick down gear?
My personal thing, if I had a good V8 would be auto, but I've never had it on the road, so Q plate stuff didn't come into my argument. Mine was due to the TL95 jumping out of reverse and making Broseley winch challenge excessively exciting
If I use the auto the rear prop will be longer using standard mounts. I can fab that pretty easily though so not too worried
The v8 with the auto on the road was quite nice really but it means having a further forward engine which is my only real problem plus I have little experience offroad in an auto but loads in a manual
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Q-plate, why?
Different engine, gearbox, axles and suspension from standard. So not enough points to stay on original plate
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Hmmm after some measuring the auto box is 7 inches longer with the viscous transfer box than my current setup. Currently there is a 7 inch gap between the rear of the v8 and the front of the gearbox when the engine is place above the original mounts. And so by fitting the v8 I can use original mounts and don't have to make any adapter plates. I would have to lengthen the rear prop by 3 inches to account for the shorter length in the viscous than the lt230 which isn't a problem
Now do I want an auto and have to Q plate it or do I stay manual and have to cut the bulkhead and make an adapter plate hmmmm ...
The other problem would be the engine is 7 inches away from the bulkhead and so that doesn't help weight distribution and the auto is heavier than the manual making everything heavier and my rear rad pipes won't work with a viscous transfer box as its too close for where they currently are so they'd have to be remade
but would arc work well enough or is it really a tig job ?
northern/ midlands challenges ?
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
Are there any challenges or series around the midlands or south yorkshire this year ? Trying to work out a calender for the year but they all seem to be mud monsters (south east) de-cider (devon) KOV + welsh xtrem (south wales) will be nice to do some more local
?
Cheers guys