[Headlamp finisher paint]

Ah, it appears that it is 'Brunel Silver' but I can't find a paint code. Anyone got any idea?

S

[Headlamp finisher paint]

Howdy,

I'm rebuilding my 90 and am now at the stage of preparing the 'pretty' bits - paint, trim & finishing. The truck is geting resprayed Zermatt Silver and I want the matching coloured headlamp finishers like on here:

My problem is that I don't know what colour they are so I can get the paint. Duckworth parts recently had some on eBay but I forgot to write down the paint name! Can't find it anywhere. Can anyone help?

Cheers!

Simon.

[Grease is the word...]

Hi,

I'm in the process of rebuilding my truck (1989 F reg 90 TC with Disco 200Tdi transplant and 1990RRC Axles)

I've stripped all the axles apart and rebuilt all the hubs with new bearings, seals etc etc. All repainted and blingy looking!

Before I refitted the rear hubs I'd ran out of grease so popped along to my local factors for some more. Whilst I was in there, alongside the 'standard' lithium grease, they had some grey stuff with Molybdenum in. The label said it was for CVs and high peformance/load applications but was also excellent for wheel bearings. Plus it was more expensive so I figured it must be better lol!

Naturally I bought it and rebuilt the hubs with it but now they seem quite hard to move. I haven't overtightened the hub nuts, it's just the drag of the grease. Is this anything to worry about? The only thing that's putting me off is that it says on the tub 'Don't overpack the bearings'. What does this mean?! Of course, I've packed the bearings by brushing grese onto em and speinning em by hand to make sure it's all got in there. Is this 'overpacking'?

Everything is new so will it ease up as they start working? Or am I best to take them all apart, clean them and use the cheap stuff?

And finally, why can't it ever be easy?!

TYIA

Simon

[90 Clutch Slip, Common or Unlucky?]

A couple of weeks back, the clutch on my 90 slipped slightly a couple of times after descending a long, steep hill after following two slow cars. It's a 2002 and has only done 38,000 miles. My previous 90, which I sold to a friend, was of a similar age and mileage and that started slipping, although an adjustment of the pedal linkage freeplay seemed to have cured it temporarily. Before anyone jumps in with both feet, I don't rest my foot on the clutch or do any other strange things and this is my 16th Landy and about my 200th vehicle in 44 years driving and I've never had a clutch go before! Just wondered if both motors were victims of previous rough driving owners or whether it's a fault that is more common than I realised. I always thought Defender clutches were pretty robust. As I'm getting on a bit, it's not a job that I'm looking forward to and I'm even getting quotes.. (sigh...)

Before anything else, check if you've left the wading plug in. I did and it got water in. Clutch slipped. Took it out, water ran out, clutch dried, no probs. Possibility of oil in there from (crankcase?) seal but if so the clutch will be u/s. I'll keep my fingers x-ed for ya!

Simon.

[Diff Lock woes?]

Thanks for replies. Although the lever is stiff I can shift it into 4 distinct positions. Hi & Lo normal and Hi & Lo Diff Lock. In Diff Lock mode the short lever is in a vertical position relative to the fore & aft line of the vehicle. In normal drive the lever is leaning 20 degrees or so toward the drivers side. I think complete seizure can be ruled out. It is possible that one of the external links has come adrift - will check. I would have been thinking the problem was the bulb but as I was stuck yesterday with only 1 wheel spinning it looks as though the lock is not engaging. I am of the opinion with the lock engaged the vehicle should be 2 wheel drive.

Hope to have a look today & post later.

MINESAPINT

Dunno where you are but I'm in Stockton and would be happy to have a look at it for you. Had similiar problems with mine. Gimme a PM or a call on 07883 086251 if you need any help.

Simon