rooferboy03
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Posts posted by rooferboy03
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I have also noticed the harder you drive them the more economical they are,the other day on a long journey i returned 18 mpg.Normally around town about 10-11 mpgMy 1996 4.6 P38 on petrol usually gets 14-15mph with a regular 8 mile run split 3 mile town and 5 mile 55mph.
This may sound daft, but I've just completed 2 off 220 mile journeys and on the first I was driving for economy at 55mph on cruise control getting 18mph until the last 7 miles where I increased to 75mph (got to dual carraigeway and children started moaning) - I expected the mpg to drop considerably, but instead it increased to 19mpg over that last 7 miles.
The next time I did the same journey I set the cruise control to 75mph where I could (due to traffic) and I got 22 mpg. The weather was similar (calm winds) and both were driven with the same stop/break.
With my limited mechanical knowledge I'd be guessing that the increased speeds must take the engine into it's sweet spot for better economy - my driving style will now change for this car.
Cheers RB
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mine were 14 years old but still came off with the impact screw driver.
there is no need for the screw once the wheels are in place but it is handy to keep the disc secure while you fiddle about with putting the caliper in place
cheers RB
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Its time to renew my Range Rover P38 discs however I am stumped by a damn single screw holding the disc in which just wont budge. I have cleaned it up and hit it with WD40 and a blow torsh but neither one will budge on the left or right hand side disc. Is there any tips on getting these out short of drill and re tap the hole, which I dont really want to do.
Hi
Have just done mine and used an impact srewdriver.Basically you hit the srewdriver with a hammer and it turns in the direction you have it set for,clockwise or anti clockwise the latter being the correct direction for the disc screws.
I hit it about three times and they were then loose enough to undo with a normal large philips.Not bad since the car has done 110,00 miles on one set of discs!!!
Hope this helps RB
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I had the same problem as in car went for mot and received advisory on the front left airbag.The following week before i had even had chance to think about it ,it burst big style.This turned out to be a blessing in disguise as when i removed the wheel i found the discs to be quite badly worn.I have ended up replacing front air bags (Arnott 2nd generation variety),discs,pads and front shockers (Terrafirma)(what the hell).I also invested in reset software for the air suspension that worked a treat.Well happy with the motor now!!I took my Range Rover for mot last week. It passed ok but I was given an advisory on perishing of the air springs.
What does the team think? Should I be thinking about changing them now? Or will they go a bit longer?
It's a 2002, I've no reason to think they're not the originals.
Thanks all.
Cheers RB
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Anybody got any answers
RB
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Hi All
Have just started a strip down on the air suspension compressor and have a couple of questions.
1) What size allen key do i need for the grub screw that holds the crank in place.
2) Is it normal for the comutator to wear to a groove where the brushes come in to contact with it and if so can i have it machined flat,or is there no need to worry about it.
3) Which is the best seal to use.The reason i ask is that there seems to be a couple of different types ie Teflon and one from Holland which is said to be a re-design with teflon & fibre glass.(on ebay)
Cheers RB
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Sorry have just read the link so that has answered most of my questions
Cheers RB
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Thanks for quick replies
I have got a handbook and have looked at it!but all it say's is consult your dealer.I will have a look at it myself but was just wondering if i manage to repair it myself by having the system re-gassed etc, will the symbol disappear of it's own accord or does it need to be re-set.
Thanks RB
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Hi All
I have just noticed that there is a book symbol with an exclamation mark in the display for the heater control.
Any ideas as to what this may be and what the fix is.Range Rover p38 4.6 HSE.
Cheers RB
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There is also this one that seems pretty good as they will post it anywhere.
Cheers RB
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Found this may be of some interest to you.
Quite a bit of p38 diesel stuff on ebay.
RB
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I'm not sure if standard pre-out will be high enough level - I don't have an original hi-line head unit, but the output is supposedly somewhere between a normal pre-out and straight to speaker, which might mean you end up with a very quiet system.
Don't suppose anyone has actually tried what rooferboy03 is planning and can offer any feedback?
Do you actually need any features the original system lacks? If not and if, as you say, you aren't into wiring, I'd probably save pain and potential expense and just get hold of an original head unit - just make sure it's the high line one or it won't have the right outputs.
Thanks Jeff
I've got no problem with putting an original head unit back in,it's the cost of one that is the problem.I did see one on ebay the other day which the guy was selling as spares or repairs for £15 + post believe it or not.The problem is there was no code ,so who knows if it's knicked or not.As a matter of interest can you have them re-coded?
What do you mean by normal pre out and high enough level.The unit i am considering has a 4v output which is twice as high as most units in the price range.from the research i have done i think the highest would be about 8v? does this sound about right?
It certainly would be good if someone else has done the same conversion though.
Cheers RB
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Thanks for replies so far.
I am now looking at a Kenwood KDC-6047U which has 3 pre out connections so i should be able to connect door amps as well as the sub woofer in the boot.
The amp in the head unit is slightly down on power as 4 x 30 which i presume would be no problem at all because i would be relying on the door amps and the amp in the rear to supply all the watts i need.Also i am led to believe that the the higher voltage from the preouts makes for a better sound as well.This unit is 4v preout ,but most are between 2-2.5.I also have decided to us the Nexxia PC3-09S lead which converts the pink 10 pin socket to phono leads to plug straight into the back of the new head unit.It is amazing what you can find out from doing endless hours of research over the internet.Cheers guys i love this place!! RB
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On one of the multiplugs, you will find twisted pairs of cables. These are to each of the door amps. There is also a grey cable which sends the "on" signal to the amps.
So, if you buy a head unit with phono outputs (round sockets) and four phono plugs, you can solder the pairs of twisted speaker cables to the phono plugs, the grey cable to the "remote out" wire on the head unit and Bobs your uncle!
Mine worked a treat, I didn't bother with the sub because the new head unit drove the speakers really well.
FYIW, I had taken the car to Halfrauds for a quote and they were adamant they could fit the head unit, their book even told them that... Wrong.
Disclaimer: In my opinion, mine sounded better than the HK system it replaced, However bearing in mind what Geoff has highlighted, you may not be of the same opinion!
As a matter of interest which head unit did you use?or would reccomend.Are there any units with more than 2 sets of phono outputs and does the remote out operate the steering wheel controls?
Cheers RB
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You can on most cars, but the Range Rover system is slightly odd, in that the original head unit outputs were at a strange level somewhere between standard pre-amp out and speaker level. If you really do have the hi-line system* (I don't think it'll be Harmon Kardon in a '95 - at least they weren't badged as such until later - I don't know if Harmon Kardon had anything to do with the earlier version of the system), you need to make sure the inputs to the door amps and sub are at an appropriate level. I guess you might get away with just using a very low volume on the head unit, but that's at your own risk (to your ears/speakers/amps
).Plenty of P38s get advertised with claims that they have the Harmon Kardon system when they don't, either due to ignorance or dodginess on the part of the seller. The earlier hi-line system was much the same (same basic components), so if you have the earlier hi-line system it's still very good. If you have the mid-range system that doesn't have the door amps (or sub?) so you'll have no problem fitting an aftermarket head unit. Same with the low-line, but that is missing the mid-range speakers and sub so doesn't sound anywhere near as good.
It is definately badged as a Harman Kardon set up and on inspection has got the amps fitted behind the door panels.I believe this to all be genuine and maybe bought as an added extra with the vehicle from new.The reason for this is that the previous owner bought the range rover as a company vehicle from new and no expense was spared(at main dealers) to keep it on the road,I don't imagine he was the type of person to tinker with the sound system.
Having said all that i am still no nearer a solution to fitting an aftermarket head unit.Do you think i should just purchase an original head unit and be done with it?
The guy i bought the leads from has confessed that they do not work with the Harman Kardon system and has promised a full refund,but he did not have an alternative either.
My main problem is that i do not have a great understanding of vehicle electrical systems so would need clear and precise instructions to follow in order to complete the task,If indeed there is a solution!!!
Thanks in anticipation RB
PS has anyone got an original clarion head unit for sale!
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Hi,
I suspect it was the Clarion Head Unit. The problem is that you have individual amps in the doors and the sub in the boot... This makes it tricky to hook up an aftermarket unit and you can't just do it via a set of crossover leads.
Do a search on here, myself and Geoff talked it through a while back. I detailed the solution I used but it might not suit you.
Sorry to have complicated the job
Thanks for reply
as far as i was aware you can buy the leads to connect an aftermarket unit to the existing wiring,and then buy a head unit specific patch lead to enable the use of steering wheel controls.I must admit that i wasn't aware of the issues with the door amps etc. RB
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Hi all
Can anyone tell me which head unit was fitted in a 95N p38,There are 2 block connectors an 8 pin grey & a 10 pin pink.The original unit is no longer fitted and i wish to fit a new Blaupunkt head unit,so i need to know the original so i know which interface lead to purchase.The speaker system is the Harmon Karden variety.Any advice much appreciated as always.
Cheers RB
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Yes, you can get a new Key 1, and Key 2 if you feel like it.
The 'risk' which causes purchasers to be steered away from buying a Key 1 or 2 is because normally Key 1 & 2 came with the car from new, only one key is left but the label has fallen off, so no-one knows which key it is, and the car won't work with duplicate keys of the same number. It being understood that these are special order items, and you can't get your money back, or exchange the key for 'the other one'.
As you are certain you have Key 3 you can order a new Key 1 without having a clash.
Ok thanx for that,the label on the key says it is a number 3 so i can only presume that this is correct.Can i presume that LR would know how many keys they have supplied for the vehicle.The reason i ask is that i am only the second owner so there would't be much research to be done.Is there any other advantage to having a key 1 or 2 other than operation of the memory seats.
Cheers RB
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"Cheap" isn't the word though - £157 IIRC, for a key three or four, very slightly cheaper for key one or two, but make sure you know what you already have as you can't have two of the same number. There isn't a cheap option, unfortunately.
Sorry for hijacking but i also only have one key,The key number is 3.
does this mean that i can now only get a key number 4. as presumably key 1 & 2 have been lost at some point.
My understanding is that LR only make 4 keys for each car and that keys 1 & 2 only, have the capability of being used with the memory seats etc.
If i thought i could get replacement 1 & 2 keys i would definately consider it.
Cheers RB
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anyone?
cheers
Rooferboy
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Hi All
Have not posted in a while, but i am now in the process of putting the beast back on the road.
The problem(if you can call it that) i have is the dashboard along the bottom edge where it meets the screen has curled up.
Has anybody had the same problem and if so is there an easy fix.
am i right in assuming that there is a rubber along this edge as it is not showing on the part that is curled up.
Thanx
Rooferboy
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Yes, you can, but as household tanks draw from the top, and autogas tanks from the bottom, you need an autogas tank installed, which means when you get your delivery the tanker driver sees the connection to the bottom of the tank they are legally obliged to charge you the extra duty.
The tanks are cheap, the transfer pumps are not, I did look into this and you need to be doing 100K per year to make it justifiable.
Countrywide Autogas will install a tank for you if you really want to go down this route... but I wouldn't recommend it.
Thanks for that it was just an idea i had and i certainly would'nt be doing 100k more like 20k at the most.
Just as a matter of interest how much would a gas conversion cost.
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HI all
If i convert my 4.6 rangie to lpg is it possible to have a tank installed at home in my garden so that i can fill the car myself.
By doing that i would be able to buy fuel at 27p a litre.
I could hire a tank for about 250 quid a year.
Surely it is no diffrerent to having a tank fitted for your heating.
Just a thought, let me know yours
Cheers
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Hi all
has anyone fitted a rear anti roll bar to a p38 and what difference has it made to the road holding & cornering.
Thanks
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Please talk me out of buying this L322
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
That's not cheap in my opinion. I have just bought a 2003 TD6 Vogue for 3,800. Bit higher on the mileage tho. I am so pleasantly surprised how well it goes as compared to the p38 which can't quite beat a snail!! Mpg 25 mixed driving so not bad at all.