JDB
-
Posts
35 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by JDB
-
-
-
Thanks!
The roof rack is this one - 91/NL/RR - http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/LD91NL.JPG
Size is 135 cms wide by 205 long,
-
As above looking to put a decking sheet on the roof rack - is 2mm too thin and will it deform (on a Brownchurch full length) or should i go for 3mm?
Just trying to keep the weight (and cost) down?
Next anyone know of cheap sources?!
Thanks in advance.
-
As above - whats above difference between ABS and non ABS master cylinders?
I am after a service kit for an ABS one and can't find and cheap ones (ie under £50)?
Disco is a 300tdi 1996.
Thanks in advance
-
It's my understanding that the test you did is for the alarm system with the one button fob only. The two button fob system does not have a similar test.
I have a 2 button remote and it worked as a test.... for all the systems?
-
Ok the latest update, the siren has not gone off of its own accord, so today decided to run the "test procedure" which I found on the RAVE CD - ie the release bonnet switch, turn ignition on, open drivers door, ignition off then on.
It entered the test procedure and all the senors worked, but the siren did not go off - indicators and LED all flashed as they should. Thought this was a little strange, so reset alarm, and then tried it in the full mode - and no siren. Looking more and more as though the BBUS is the problem area - time to find a cheapish one to swap out.
-
Just noticed what herpmad has posted on another post that is currently running ref a TD5 immobiliser -
had a simlar problem with my disco 1 and funnaly a celio a few years back after i drove it out the show room and the aa man told me a very simple solution which may helpopen the door turn key in ignition take the key out slowly (to fast dosnt give it chance to disingage propperly ) then pop the bonnit take off the negative battery lead and leave it off for 20secs then reconnect lock the doors with the fob then unlock and start the key when putting key in the lock do it slowly and turn it one stage at a time
this hole processes resets the imobilser
Maybe this is waht I have done to reset mine?
-
OK - followed the advice - connected it all back up. Alarm sounded but did not stop after 3 minutes. Tried remote on/off, ignition on/off a few times and it still did not go off. Then whilst doing this and opening and closing the drivers door whilst deciding whether to disconnect the battery it went quiet! Not sure exactly what order I did everything in - problem remote on/off a few times, opened door, ignition on/off a few times, shut door to loosen battery ready to take off, then ignition on/off ready to disconnect.
Any ideas have I reset it? I have wrapped it in rags so that if it does go off in the middle of the night it won't disturb too many people - as I don't have 100% confidence in it being right yet......
-
You can tell it's not an alarm problem by testing pin 3 on the BBUS connector. The alarm system grounds the signal on that pin to tell BBUS to go crazy. So the absence of a ground signal on pin 3 means the alarm isn't the cause for BBUS sounding.
The 3 minutes test with the BBUS connected tells you if the sounder has had it or not (backup battery leaked, water ingress etc).
OK looks as though the "3 minute test" is next - its now 930pm so I think I will leave it until the morning! Will report back - thanks to all for advice so far.
One other thing I think the system is generally OK, with the BBUS disconnected, if I leave the dogs in the car and use the remote (rather than the key in the door to switch the ultrasonics off) the dogs movement triggers the lights to flash as though the alarm is sounding (obviously no siren).
-
The sounder needs a 12v supply voltage to 'hold off' and to charge the integral battery. You may not be getting the 12v at the rear plug of the sounder and so the alarm is sounding via it's own battery proving thats ok, and which it is suposed to do if the vehicle battery was disconnected.
Have you tried disconnecting the vehicle battery first then connecting the sounder?. But first follow the rules for disconnecting the battery as shown in the Owners Handbook ie. turn the starter switch 'on' and then 'off' and then disconnect the battery within 15 seconds.
My sounder battery has been dead for years and never given any problems with the alarm system. You can open up the sounder and replace the battery if you ever wish too.
Well just tried the "correct" way of disconnecting the battery, then reconnected BBUS, reconnected battery, siren sounded and would not switch off the way recommended in the book - ie remote fob then turn ignition to position II.
So open to suggestions for something else to try.
-
Thanks - will give it a go and see.
JDB
-
Hi - after some advice the Alarm system Siren BBUS / AMR4974 located on the front drivers side wing sounds if it is connected, the rest of the alarm system seems to work ok with it disconnected - but obviously no siren.
Am I right to presume that the internal battery has died and as a result it causes the alarm to sound?
I don't suppose there is a way of testing apart from swapping out, and it looks as though its sealed to stop tampering - so I cannot add a new nicad to it?
I had a quick look but could not find new ones just other used ones - likely to have the same problem in due course?
-
".... sharp downward pressure to base" & "do not use tools to assist removal" - sounds like a recipe for disaster if I did its bound to break!
-
Don't forget that speedos normally over-read by 10%, the only accurate way to measure is use a GPS - this is why real mpg is often much less.....
Add on changes caused by the use of different tyre sizes etc and GPS is the only way to go.
-
Take the viscous off for the winter whilst you think about it - unless you do a lot of uphill towing.......
Maybe for the summer a electric fan, i have one and only ever need to switch it on occasionally - they simply don't run that hot as normal.
-
My question is what make/model of car to get the fans from?
I seem to recall reading that Sierra fan and shroud were a pretty good fit.
You could keep cost down by just having an on/off switch on the dash.
-
we serviced my 300 tdi today - all went well right up to trying to undo drain plug - yes it rung off - B!"££$ks.
the stump is still in place and unit is still sealed.
any advice on best next move.
Leave it it place? Remove the whole bowl (nut on top I recall) and clean out then refit.
-
Will also email the Propshaft clinic to see if they can help as well!
I might see if I can find someone who can press them out carefully and see if I can get it "reconditioned" ie new needles and grease - might give it some more life.
-
The balls in the middle of the second picture between the 2 UJs.
Not sounding promising then if it cannot be replaced?
-
Evening - a little bit of help please.
I have a (I think) Scorpion Cardan Propshaft, the UJs were a little worn, I have replaced the front one (part no STC 3466 I recall).
I need to replace the rear one (STC 3466 again I think) and the one with the whole through for the ball joint - does anyone know the part number and the method of extraction/replacement?
Prop is on a Disco 300tdi if it makes any difference.
Pics as below
-
... .check your MPG using a GPS to record distance - not your speedo, they are notoriously inaccurate and then affected by tyre size changes as well.
The only accurate way is to brim the tank, drive a long distance on the GPS (or record several small trips) then brim again, personally I always find manufacturers claims high, and most peoples high as the speedo over reads.....
Not saying folk are wrong, but to get it right it helps to be accurate.
-
Cheers Woff - sounds as though its going to be the merry sound of hacksaw-against-plastic. Incidentally I have a theory that this undershield thing is simply LR's way to hide all the leaks from the sump/transfer box/gearbox etc and pretend that the build quality has improved!
Ged
......and there was me thinking I might put one on (I have one spare) - but had no clips or method of attachment - will it help keep water(mud) from spraying up the inside?? If so I might be interested in your clips/screws and how it goes on!!
-
Anderson connectors are about £6 each on Ebay...
Price depends on size as they say!
I have some spare brand new 350 Amp ones(with covers and handles) that some one can have at cost.
Will dig out details.
-
As above - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=019
Seems a reasonable deal as it includes a fairlead?
Any thoughts / advice?
Thanks in advance.
What thickness aluminium is recommended for a roof rack floor?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Silverbake = top man, many thanks for all the help.
JDB