UkFoxy
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Posts posted by UkFoxy
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Thanks guys!....Yes Ally I'll be doing that...Thanks again
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Have I asked a question that no one knows the answer too?
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How did you get on with the MOT tester?
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Sorry after my initial frustration and panic I found that the inertia switch had tripped. Reset it and all is now well. Not something I would have expected to happen though.
Where's the inertia switch & how did you reset it? I'm wondering if a problem I had last year was down to that?....I hope not after spending weeks rectifying the problem!!!.....lol Typical!
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I know exactly what yo umean as I had the same trouble last week doing mine! You wait till you try & do the diffs! I spent about 2 hours trying to get mine undone & as for the rear fuel filer well that's another story!...Good luck & be patient!...lol
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I'm still having problems with my fuel injection pump (300tdi N Reg 1995 Manual) There's a leak on the back of the pump that's covered by a little rubber saucepan (it unbolts) Does anyone have a broken pump that they'll be prepared to sell me that part? I've just bought a replacement pump of evilbay only to find that although it is off an N Reg 300 tdi....it's off an automatic!....More money well spent!
Can this auto pump be fitted to my manual disco?
Looking forward to some interesting replies!
Cheers Foxy
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Thanks guys! I've checked the lift pump & hoses they are fine.& Jad thanks so much for the advice...I'll be trying that shortly, but I'll replace the part first. I bought a replacement pump of evil bay only to find that it's off an AUTO!.......I'll keep you posted...Thanks again
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For some reason my disco is running like an old tractor. Just no power at all, it drives ok but has no grunt. I've cleaned out the rear fuel filter, changed the front one.The turbo is woking fine........Any Ideas??? I do have a leaking fuel injection pump, it's leaking from the rear of the pump from what I think is a pressure relief valve (it has a little rubber saucepan on the end of it) it's dripping fuel from there. The vehicle revs up fine.
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I've got the same problem but my clicking only come on when the main beam is applied. The clicking (on mine) is coming from one of the electronic boxes behind the glove box....will let you know how I get on!
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When i put the dip lights on the off side on takes longer to illuminate..also when one goes instantly to full beam & when I operate the stalk to full beam the other light goes to full beam whilst the other one goes back to dip!...
ALSO when I put the ignition on the washer bottle motor goes to live instantly!!!
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Had the same problem with my L reg 300 a few weeks ago. Whent off road & got a little air came own hard & hazzards came on, no central locking. Becuse of the knock i had set off the impact censor. Had to turn key fully off & leave it a while (about 3 to 5 mins i was told) had to do it a few times but it did reset its self in the end.
Sorry to be thick but what do you mean turn the key fully off then leave it for 5 mins????...I've got a central locking gremlin ie not enough voltage to activate the door actuator...think I might try your method.
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I just cut the middle box out & replaced it with a galvanised flexi pipe for £50...dead easy to do.
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Does anyone have any detailed information on how to tweek a 300 tdi fuel injection pump to give the old girl a boost?
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Right budding disco sparkies...you'll love this one!
My speedo also packed in & i've changed the connectors to the sensor checked the voltage (or lack of )...BUT i no nothing! Then I noticed my reversing lights had also given up the ghost..So I traced the reversing wires back to the sensor, checked for continuity between the two wires & they are shorted out somewhere. but the wires are still disconnected as the wires have my DVM plugged into them to check the voltage. I looked in dismay as the reversing lights were working!?!?...How does that work??? So with the reversing lights connector disconnected I drove up the road & low & behold the speedo decided to work! So now I have a working speedo AND working revesing lights even with the two wires that feed the wiring sensor UNPLUGGED!!!!.....WORK THAT ONE OUT!!!
AND before you come on here saying oh you must have unplugged the wrong sensor.....It was definitely the right two sensors!
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Check that the connection at the alternator is good,
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A mate of mine has a pair of them on a paejero & he loves them!.....Very bright & excellent beam angles
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Hi There,
Fuse F4 feeds other things too, if the circuit to it is broken then things like the dash lights will not work too.
Some models have an anti theft thingy fitted. This then routes the wiring of the right door via connector C2104 which is in the drivers door post. its a 12 way thing according to my picture. Then connector C607 in the door. The wire leaves fuse F4 as pink and ends up as Brown /Black.
Well that's the way I read it.
Look for other things that don't work but I bet the fault is in the drivers door post.
Good luck with it.
The pink/brown wire from the fusebox (F4) stops at the connector & the brown/black wire comes from somewhere else & not from F4....The saga continues
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Hi Dave,
Good to hear from you...say hi to all the guys for me...I've not been on for ages...
Sorry mod
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Hi,
The circuit from the battery to F4 is fine as is the connection from F4 to the connector. I changed the internal fusebox today...still the same.My central locking is connected to the alarm ecu but I've changed that too. I'll double check the drivers door post again tomorrow...The things that don't work are...the bottom segment of the speedo ( I've replaced ALL the bulbs )...The speedo itself & the central locking. According to the haynes manual the earth (E201) is common to all three. In Rave it shows E201 as the earth at the connector to the speedo sensor at the transfer box so I'll check that again tomorrow.
Thanks very much for your suggestions, very much appreciated.
I'll keep you posted.
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I've changed...ALL the relays. Checked ALL the fuses a thousand times.Changed ALL the electronic boxes & checked all the earths.
BOTH the Haynes & the Rave manual show ONE wire (Brown/Pink) going directly from the internal fusebox (F4) to the drivers doors actuator, mine has a connector between the two?. The Bn/Pk wire from the fuse box on my disco stops at the connector? & doesn't reach the actuator....if I remove (F4) fuse I get some voltage but not enough to operate the actuators?
(1) Black..............Earth
(2) Yellow/pink.....?
(3) Brown/Black...?
(4) Orange...........Open voltage......Becomes live to open doors
(5) Pink................Closed voltage....Becomes live to close doors
Any ideas?
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Where are you from AD??
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The best thing you can do is find another local diso owner who can weld. From experience you'll find much more rot once you start stripping it. I personally wouldn't recommend welding it yourself as even though it may look good to you it probably won't to the MOT man. Get someone else to do it for you & hopefully they won't sting you on price.
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I have an N reg 300tdi Disco with central locking gremlins. According to Rave & the Haynes manual I have ONE (Brown/pink) live wire running from the internal fusebox directly to the drivers door actuator...but I have something completely different! I have a connector between the two with TWO live wires that come from the fusebox but stop at the connector, there are FIVE wires that go from that plug to the drivers door actuator but none of these are live.......Any ideas?????
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I'll bear that in mind...many Thanks
Wiring loom manufacturers
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
have you thought of using solder sleeves? These are transparent sleeves about 20mm in length with a solder band at each end & one in the middle. All you do is use a heatgun to join the two wires together, then cover the sleeve with glue lined DR25 heatshrink. easy to do. Not sure where you get the solder sleeves from though but if you're interested in using that method I'll do some research.
Foxy