rslandys3
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Posts posted by rslandys3
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I would fab up something to take the series 2 centre pannel and leave the rest. I have a series 2a centre if you want it.
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What he says. Defender rad with series front.
and oil cooler
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Defender front end? Wash your mouth out Mr White!
You can fit a decent sized rad in without changing the front panel, just chop all the cowling off the back of it and fit the biggest you can find - mine's sherpa-sized although there's not much Sherpa to it.
What he says. Defender rad with series front.
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OK, my head bolts are bottoming out. Shortening them without a lathe is impractical so what do I do?
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Have lost the sums but should be 9:1 or near enough. To be honest I haven't tried it on pertrol as 99.9% of my running is on LPG. Did a longer run today and things are much better at higher (well, relatively higher) speeds. I can now keep speed up into wind uphill. I should have been a bit more scientific and timed my 40-60mph before and after.
Should be interesting to do a fuel consumption comparison. I'm painfully aware of the 'before' figure for that one.
Running on lpg the timing should be advanced a bit but be careful as it may knock on petrol with the higher compression.
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Encouraged by the fact that there are others out there daft enough to muck about with a perfectly good, if incontinent, engine I went for it and had .080" skimmed (Hatty's a 2.5 so .080" should be enough).
Wednesday morning we picked up the head complete with re-ground valves and seats. The valves had cleaned up beautifully, wife and daughters slightly disturbed by sight of middle aged man drooling over box full of valves.
After limbering up with a couple of fags and a bout of coughing brother in-law and self got started on the rebuild. He won the 'how far can you fire a collet?' competition. He also won the swearing competition.
Point of note. Rocker shaft. Very, very annoying if you forget to align the peg hole before torquing down the bolts and setting valves.
We left the timing standard.
Not had chance to go very far yet but she does seem much the same at low throttle and some modest improvement (nothing startling) when you put your foot down. Which is pretty much in line with expectations.
I have a nagging feeling that just re-grinding the valves may have given much of the improvement. The doubt reinforced by the fact that when I looked at the bill the valve re-grind was £28+VAT whereas the skim was £80+VAT. But it did look nice.
Good to hear it works. I seem to be in trouble with mine, used a cheap copper head gasket which lasted all of ten minutes. Fitted (+grinded) new valves to my head and did the machining myself at my university workshop so all in all its cost me about 25 quid. Do you have any idea what the compression is now? Mine is about 9.5 but its a 2.25. I think standard timing should be fine too, fuel round here seems to be 95oct ish. I will install water injection if it starts knocking. The power/compression curve flattens off pretty rapidly after about 9.5 to 1 so thats where I left it. You could probably get away with leaning out the carb a little too.
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How silly / doable would this be?
2.25 petrol block, 2.5 cam and crank, 19J turbo and manifolds, suck through su carb and water injection?
Would it blow up?
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After skimming my cylinder head on my 2.25 I bolted everything back together and all was well for ten minutes then the thing wouldnt run. I checked the compression and it was way off so took the head off again to find the faces of the block and head covered in a mix of oil and water. The head and block are fine, not cracked or anything. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong when I put the thing together. I used a cheap copper head gasket which might have had something to do with it. Any help would be good as I have to get the thing running again asap.
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compression was way out. 8,8,10.8,11.8. (bar) I suspect its the valves as the were a little pitted. Will re grind and then try.
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Have you checked the accelerator pump in the carb?
It's a brand new carb so I doubt it but will check.
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Sorry for clarity- male or female to battery
The male (on the regulator) goes to the battery I think
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Have you checked the compression? (compression tester?)
I will try to get hold of one and check it but the idle is pretty smooth so I'd guess its ok?
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HELP NEEDED! I have everything back together and it idles nicely. Got everything hot and adjusted the valve clearances and carb, no worries there. Although, there is a fair amount of tappet click? The problem is that it wont rev up very well. This is the first time I have ever had an engine to bit so i am worried I have done something wrong. If you rev it up slowly it is just about ok but not optimal. Have I bummed up fitting the head and now have a duff head gasket or do I have a vacuum leak or is it timing? Its now about 9.5 to 1 compression and doesn't seem to be knocking? Any help appreciated.
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I seem to have a bum voltage regulator on my instruments (fuel and temp gauge) on my SIII. I have gotten a new one but I am a bit worried that my wires are swapped ( thus killing my voltage regulator). The old regulator had 4 pins (2 bridged pairs) of which 2 had a B next to them and the other an I. Is this B for Battery and I for instrument? My manual is not very clear on this section. The new regulator has no markings. Are these regulators polarity sensitive?
Please help
As a general rule power goes out of sockets and into pins. So the spade type connectors on the regulator are for the battery. Thats the way it is on mine anyway.
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Unfortunately my fuel tank is on its last legs and there is a load of muck in the bottom. This keeps clogging the fuel pump on my 2.25 petrol. Anyone have any idea if it is possible to use one of those carb fuel pressure gauges and have it mounted in the dash or is that a really bad idea? Are they best left under the bonnet?
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Now come on, not fair!
You've got me interested but there's no punch line! How does it run?Havent got the heater hose bit so ran it with no water and hadnt connected the exhaust either so its hard to say. But it does run! Valve clearances are tight now (2.75mm removed from head) so may have to shim the rocker shaft. As soon as I get the bits ill let you know how it runs.
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This is how I have done my one. With a manual switch and temp guage for control! I have a big ex-mil type oil cooler that takes up most of the space in front of the grill so I have mounted the fan on that. I think this restricts airflow hugely so I will either move it to behind the radiator or fit a disco/rangie autobox oil cooler in its place. Anyone have any thoughts?
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I couldnt work out the connections on my odd ex mill fuel/temp gauge so thought it was time for a change. Got this rev counter from a triumph spitfire and swapped the bezel for the old fuel temp one. works, no problems there. As for fuel and temp gauges I was thinking of using rangie ones or anything similar with a two inch diameter and mounting them next to the vacuum gauge. Anyone know about getting other gauges to read right on series senders? Are all 12v gauges the same or will they need biasing with resistors or is it more complicated than that?
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Got everything back together. Managed to mash up the brass heater hose connector though. Anyone know where you can get these from?
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After milling 2.75mm from my head combustion chamber volume is now roughly 62.5-63cc.
According to calculation from this data it should be 62.2 so I assume it is about right.
Note that compression can be calculated by swept volume + gasket volume + combustion chamber volume divided by gasket + combustion chamber volume.
Swept volume = 2286cc / 4 = 571.5
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A quick, and probably inaccurate, check showed 3.620" from rocker cover face to top of block. Standard? Guess the .020" is the gasket so 3.60" for head.
Any other way of telling? Minor Monthly has just run a series of atricles on tuning the A Series head, they're all different so the only way to be sure was to measure from the low point (oil inlet below rocker shaft cap) and subtract from overall thickness. Where's the low point on a LR head?
"By Hank Rutherford, Steve Denis, Peter Ogilvie
7:1 head is 3.700 in thick, chamber volume is 91 cc.
8:1 head is 3.600 in. thick, chamber volume is 75.2 cc.
7:1 pushrod length overall, 7.300 in
8:1 pushrod length 7.175 in overall (some parts suppliers are not able to tell you the difference between pushrods, just that they are different)
Within the range of our interest, there is about 1.2 cc change in volume per .010 in. change in thickness
Milling .100 in. makes a 7:1 head 8:1. Almost exactly.
Head gasket volume and volume above the piston crown is 4.25 cc."
Hope this helps.
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Don't know what compression it was - never tested it, or calculated it....
The cam was done by a chap who Kent Cams put me in touch with - IIRC he was called Zac or something like that...
The SU was fitted on a new manifold..
Ignition timing was done by trial and error on a dynonomet....
Was it all worth it?? Probably not!
BUT it did go like stink, it was still a std engine as far as insurance ( or I suppose compoeteing class ) was concerned and it made for an interesting project......Hope that answers your questions..
David
Do you know what you got HP wise?
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My head after skimming 2.75mm on a pretty small milling machine. Measurement shows it's perfectly flat though.
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I doubt that very much, I have done this, and with euro95 unleaded, i never could get it to pink, I could retard it sofar that it would backfire. If you had enough material on the head, you could skim to 10:1 without to many problems I reckon (no prove for this though).
Daan
Thats cool. I took off 2.75mm today. Will get the head back in the truck and see how it goes.
You've got me interested but there's no punch line! How does it run?
BUT it did go like stink, it was still a std engine as far as insurance ( or I suppose compoeteing class ) was concerned and it made for an interesting project......
series 2 dash
in Series Forum
Posted
Just fix it with self tappers, that way you could remove it when you wanted.