integerspin
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Posts posted by integerspin
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Like THIS.
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I did that for a selection of senders. I tested them at the same time as well as having a PT100
sensor in the pot. I will look for the graphs.
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Carbon = coke. Grind it up into a very, very fine powder -- ideally the same consistency as talcum, if possible add a small amount of soft iron fillings that you have filed off say a piece of mild steel pipe, but no more than 20%. Heat your piece until it is bright cherry red, fully immerse it in the powder and allow it to cool down. Test it with a pin punch (before & after is a good plan) and you will see the external case of your piece has absorbed some of the carbon and hardened.
If you want to get really special and can legally obtain some liquid arsenic -- add some to your carbon powder until you have a thin paste, remember arsenic is a poison and wear protective gloves while mixing the paste, Immerse your red hot piece of steel fully into the paste. DO NOT INHALE the fumes while the piece is cooling down ! It is poisonous! If you do this form of case hardening you must wear a full breathing apparatus and carry it out in a mechanically ventilated workshop or better still inside a fit-for-purpose fume cupboard.
Have you got that mixed up with cyanide?
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Ahead of you there Ross, I have fitted plastic curtains to the unit to prevent dust ingress.
Jason.
I have a shelf unit behind my mill with 25 bins on it;-)
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The drill looks good.
Good luck with the bins. I bought three stillages full of lin bins about ten years ago, took me ten years to sort out shelving for
them, until then every flat surface had piles of bins on it;-)
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I wont have any going away for a couple of weeks but I'm happy to add to our batch of stuff. What are they made from and what are you looking for hardness wise?
Well thats good of you, a couple of weeks is no problem.
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A blow torch and bucket of water/oil not good enough?
Not really, to get a reasonable thickness you need to hold it for a few hours at temperature in whatever
carbon rich atmosphere.
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Does any one regularly get case hardening done and could they add some stuff of mine?
I made some spacers for a gearbox, must be a few years ago now, and never got the case hardening
sorted as it turned out my local hardening place didn't do it any more.
I am just making some dies for a hydraulic crimper, I guess they should be cased as well and
thought I would ask here before I started making a furnace;-)
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..... and ?
Well I painted a raro chassis and axleswith it and 2 years or so later, when I flogged it, they still looked pretty good.
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Some of the older ones needed a load on the 5v rail to work properly, as you say a simple bulb does the trick. So a bonus worklight in the mix then
A quick google for using a PC PSU as a bench power supply should turn up all the info you need.
I altered an old ATX power supply a few months ago, it was pretty good between 7V and 16V, over or under that and the protection
kicked in and shut it off instantly, I din;t get round to trying to sort out why it wouldn't go from 0 to 30V as some websites suggest.
I used it to run a radiator fan for a few hours a day for a month or so, I had to rig up a relay and resistor as an anti surge thing to
get the fan going as the initial draw was to great. once running it was continually putting out 12A@12V OK.
I was a bit worried about plugging in and unplugging, thats when they tend to go bang. plugged it in yesterday and there was a flash,
it's popped a capacitor, not sure whether I should bin it and move the alterations to another old psu or try and fix it, I only just know
enough electronics to be dangerous..
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You could have some kind of valve so the gauge holds its pressure to make reading easier but it would still work without.
Will.
I made a compression tester some years ago,
I made on using a gauge from the local hydraulic shop and a dummy injector.
It needs to have a valve in it, I glued in an old tyre valve. it worked perfectly and has been used on TDis
half a dozen times since I made it, I made another end to do mondeos and I had trouble with the valve leaking.
I like the picoscope stuff above. would have worked well with the mondeo mentioned above.
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I was given a tin of Rustoleum, the bloke bought it from either Parker Steel or Buck and Hickman.
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I have made a few things over foam.
Blue foam works great. You stick it together with PVA to make a big chunk out of some sheet.
You cut it with a hot wire[an old bit of nichrome wire] and it sands very easily.
I use epoxy resin which doesn't melt foam. When your finished you just melt it out.
Here's the only pic I could easily find, filter manifolds for some carbs.
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I'm wondering how that shaft would be turned. Nothing on it for a spanner. I don't expect it to be moved by hand ?
Look for any signs of a bush, my lathe had a lever poking out of one end of the bush, you just turn it to mesh the gears. The lever was only at one end of the shaft. OK here's a picture of a similar LeBlond lathe, see the handle on the end of the back gear shaft, that rotates the bush and brings the gears into mesh. If you have a good pic you might be able to see a bolt in the front face of the front pulley, it's a dog clutch to lock the pulleys to the spindle.
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The stub at the back looks offset from the geared shaft, my money is on it being eccentric and if you twist that stub it lifts the geared shaft up to mesh (I'd bet it should have a handle fitted to it). There are a few old pillar drill pictures on the web, mostly by cincinatti that use the eccentric shaft idea to move the lay shaft to mesh.
My cincinatti lathe had the same arrangement for the back gear, you will find and eccentric bush to mesh the gears.
My lathe was very similar except it had two big gears, which slid on the shaft, so you had lo and even lower.
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If you need to use your tig amalgamating tape will seal the cable.
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send me a copy of the sketch I may be able to do it.
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Make the table from an old flywheel and cobble together a motor to drive the ring gear?
I needed a new handle for my bead roller and couldn't find a steering wheel, hanging where
I had put a steering wheel was a raro flex plate. So the bead roller got a flex plate put on it,
it would be rude not to motorise it now.
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the P5 belonged to the bloke in Buxton who always had a couple of land rovers with mazda SLT enines in them and for sale.
We went up there, for a mate to look at one of the mazda powered thingies and he showed us the P5.
I like the look of the MG[never thought I would say that].
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Reverse instantly for tapping , so you really want the reverse switch wired to the inverter.If you want to reverse any 3 phase motor, just swap two of the wires / phases round - doesn't matter which two.
I use the knee. Not to say I don't occasionly drop the quill if I need a quick change in height,Personally, I did use mine more than the lever on the side. I guess it depends whether you just want to use it as a big drill press or as a mill.
like to drop a tool into a hole, if I am expecting to have to do it again and again and can't be
arsed raising and lowering the knee, but I try not to. There again I am winging all this.
That looks like an Int30 collet chuck, not that I have ever seen int30;-) I have int40 and BT35. From memory The fat bit[of the taper] of int40 is 1-3/4", int35 1-1/2" and int30 1-1/4". I would guess that collet chuck is ER32. ER32 collets are roughly 32mm OD, I think they may be 33mm? I
have a few ER40, they are roughly 40mm OD, so I supect that's what the numbering is all about. I
use mostly ER32 collets, I do have a couple of clarksons I have picked up over the years, but as I
prefer carbide mills they are not[the clacksons] used a huge amount.
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Mine looks the same and is an AJT3, mail the serial number to
Ajax and they will tell you when it's birthday is..
You don't really need the feed handle thingie, I take mine off to
get at the bolt head behind it and often forget to put it back, I
don't think I have ever used it.
The motor is tiny! Mine has what looks like your normal 3hp or so
motor, about 12 inches tall. There isn't an ID plate on my motor, but
I run it from a rotary converter so the size isn't an issue.
Having reverse is pretty useful.
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I have seen the Parker tube bead rollers, very neat things, bloke who had them had a
set, it's not a one size fit's all jobbie.
The other thingie with a ball bearing is neat, I have seen a hoem made one, it's one
of theose things I will make one day.
The gears in the little roller are out of a Montego starter motor. I used two gears from the lathe for my big bead roller when I scrapped the lathe I forgot about the gears and the handle, but as the little bead roller has a clutch[inside the starter gears] it works OK with a mole wrench for a handle.
I have just pulled the big bead roller out of the hedge, to bead my replacement footwells.
I managed to fit a pair of gears from an old Velocette gearbox. I couldn't find a steering
wheel, they make good handles, so I put a raro flex plate on it as a handle, now I am wondering about fitting a motor!
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to roll a bead into the end of coolant pipes, which will require a pair of dies turning up on a lathe anyway.
I used the gears from a starter motor for my little bead roller.
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I've tried the cheap soldering iron kits, and recently bought a green gas one from screwfix, but never seem to melt the solder, is the above kit any good for the money? Googling brings up portasol as a good option too. Cheers mike
The makers of the cheap irons seem to have found an element to make tips from that doesn't transfer heat where you want it.
300Tdi Head Gasket change - what to do about carp in the cylinder?
in International Forum
Posted
is it common?