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BearMatthews

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Posts posted by BearMatthews

  1. Hi guys. I have a 200tdi genuine defender engine fitted in my 90 and want more powerrrrrr, as everyone does!

    I read somewhere at some point that fitting 300tdi injectors to a 200tdi engine would increase performance. I cant find where i read this for the life of me so figured i'd ask on here. Is this true?

    Before anyone says it, its running higher boost and tweeked fueling. Full size front mount intercooler, straight thru mid section exhaust, k&n filter. So please dont suggest that for more power.

    Just want to know if its even possible to swap the 300tdi injectors to a 200tdi head and if it would give any performace gains? ie cleaner/more efficient combustion giving greater power??? better fuel economy maybe??

    ANY advice is greatly appreciated and i thank you all for your replies in advance.

    Cheers, Bear.

  2. ladder frame on both variants has the same part number, so the threaded holes will be there. I haven't got a Discovery 200tdi workshop manual, so unable to check further.

    ok well the disco 200tdi doesnt have any horizontal bolts, no doubt, but not sure about defender 200tdi though. havent looked yet.

    As for the oil problem, took the rocker off, ran it and it was spraying oil like a fountain from around the two push rods for cylinder number 4? what does this mean. Took the head off and cant really see any head gasket damage. Maybe a split in the head?

    But what would cause this spitting fountain of oil from around the rear 2 push rods??

    Having the head pressure tested tomoz, if its ok skimmed, valves ground, decarboned, valve stems done etc. got quoted £100 for that lot. Seem ok? basically reconning the head... but only if the head itself is ok.

    Just please can anyone suggest why this fountain of oil??? N where its coming from????

    Cheers.

  3. Well the head is coming off this weekend. Ive found a company in telford that will pressure test, skim and do the valves for 50 quid. Having sump n ladder frame off too to get at the con rods and doing piston rings and big end shells at the same. So its getting rebuilt at a mates house near uni before diving home for the summer :) Parts are costing me £75 including all the disturbed gaskets and seals from John Richards Land Rover Surplus just down the road from harper and thats for allmakes and genuine parts NOT britpart!!

    Will post up some pics so u can see what damage there is when i strip n rebuild.

    Bear.

  4. have a look at the excessive crankcase pressure column, on the fault chart attached, has the cyclonic breather been cleaned ? if not do that first.

    Thanks, the cyclonic breather hasnt been cleaned but if theres that much pressure thats trying to get out the crankcase there must be a deeper problem than just a blocked up tube or cyclonic jobbie?? Besides it was fast onset and the cyclonic breather wont block up quick.

    Can you hear a chuffing niuse when the oil filler cap is removed? I'm guessing head gasket between #4 and an oil way.

    Alternatively - piston or rings and possibly bores as well.

    I'd have the head off for a look before going any further. Either way if the symptoms have come on quickly there is obviously something wrong which if left could seriously damage your engine.

    Dave.

    Thanks, will listen for this chuffing noise tomorrow.I agree with whipping the head off first to look for failures before dropping the bottom end. i also think the 200+ miles will be done with the AA :(

    to remove the crank or ladder frame from bottom of the block is a engine out job on a 200tdi.

    I know u cant do the crank shells with the engine in but i thought you could get the ladder frame off with the engine still in to do the con rod shells.

    Thanks all.

  5. Maybe check the bulbs in the instrument pannel itself? Set your multimeter to ohms and but across the bulb terminals. the reading should go from 1.00 to 0.00.

    If theres 12v on the wire then theres no prob with the wiring that side. Once touched to ground the light on the dash should come on.

    The side of the engine block will be a good ground if the ground cable from battery to gearbox is connected and has clean connections. There should be a thick trap that runs from battery negative to a bolt on the transfer box or gearbox. If the is no strap like this then make one.

    Other than that check the fuses. The correct fuse will be labelled by the diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover.

    These are all the ideas i have for you.

    Cheers, Bear.

  6. although it looks good, i can help but think i could fit a bigger one? or is this enought? would the one i suggested be an over kill? or is it the case of the bigger the better? :blink:

    From personal experience you will not fit a physically bigger intercooler than the one in the eBay link. Mines the same and only just fitted to a defender and i had to remove the primary and secondary bonnet catches and use bonnet pins mounted off the top plate of the rad to fasten.

    Bear.

  7. Hi there guys, need some help :(

    My 200tdi Genuine Defender engine has now started to blow oil back past the oil filler cap. Its also running hot. Pulls like a train still though.

    Put my hand over the hole and it feels more like its sucking than blowing? Although it covers my hand in wet black oil.

    Any ideas as to the cause?

    Ive been told its likely the piston rings are shot?

    Valves and seats have also been suggested although i think their break-down of seal would be less sudden and more gradual than this? This leak of oil has come on rather suddenly.

    Im thinking of removing the sump, the webbing, oil pump, undo con rod ends, remove head, remove pistons, replace piston rings, replace con rod shells and refit. Also skim head(maybe) grind valves, new stem seals, new headgasket and rebuild....

    Any advice/opinions are welcome.

    Many thanks,

    Bear.

  8. I have one of these intercoolers: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-200-300-TDI-performance-intercooler-full-width-/300724608807?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4604955f27#ht_500wt_1374

    It made little difference to my performance with higher boost a fuel pump tweaked. although my 200di genuine defender engine has now decided its rings r shot so maybe down to the engine being poorly...

    Apparently the intercooler in the link is a cheap copy of alisport intercoolers made by a guy a few years back. The owner of Allisport said these intercoolers have 'interesting' internal design although he would not elaborate on this...

    I think the saying is 'you get what you pay for'. I bought one of these intercoolers cheap n now i may regret it. The original one seemed just as good if not better!

    Food for thought for you.

    Bear.

  9. Hi, a grinding/whiring noise has developed from the mid-rear end of my 90 but only happens when under engine braking.

    It does NOT happen when accellerating or braking or even heavy engine breaking. It mainly happens after you accelerate and then let off the throttle, staying in gear. It goes away as soon as you apply the brakes...

    I have left the handbrake off and tried to move the drum to check the transfer box rear output beaking and can feel no play.

    My Uj's in my rear prop are fine... And theres no play on the bearing going into the rear diff,,,

    Im thinking it may be the bearings of the rear diff may be worn?? Which could have now killed the diff's teeth?

    I think it could also be the pads rubbing on the drum of the handbrake? but then again the noise is only when engine breaking/let off after accellerating so maybe not poss.....

    Any thoughts are welcomed and very much appreciated!

    Cheers, Bear.

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