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unclebill1

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Posts posted by unclebill1

  1. Hi all, back after three years from somewhere hot and dusty and orrible.

    The Disco had been laid up for three years with only occasional starts when I was home on leave.

    Anyway back now, Disco is all MOTed, bless her. Went for a play with no problems, got home, parked, next morning wouldn't start.

    I've tracked it down to the fuel pump is not getting power, found the inertia switch but not sure if you can reset them, any clues peoples.

    At the moment I've taken a feed from the ignition switch to power the pump and shes running, but am not sure if this is the best way to take.

    Any imput gratefully recieved.

    96 Disco 3.9 petrol V8.

    Cheers Bill

  2. Hi!

    I have a RR P38 DSE -97 where the EAS system have developed a glitch or intermittent fault.

    It started one day displaying EAS FAULT SLOW MAX 35MPH. After a restart it was all fine again for a couple of weeks.

    It then came back and at the end it was nearly every day. One time the display message and hegiht indicator lamps did all shimmer 3-4 times / second. Now the fault appears every time ignition is turned on.

    Earlier (when fault did'nt show every day) I read fault codes with my Rovacom Faultmate. It reported about every possible fault the EAS ECU can show. Things like: Faulty compressor, valves stuck open or closed, all height sensors out of range (except right front). It also belives the vehicle is moving at a speed of around 70mph (constantly changing) when standing still.

    I saved all faults and cleared them to later see which fault appeard first. Another day I tried to read fault again but wasn't able to communicate with the EAS ECU. It looks like I can't communicate with the EAS ECU when the fault is showing up. I changed the EAS ECU and timer relay for known working ones to no success. Still no communication.

    One day when I used the car with the fault apparent I hit a hole in the road and it beeped and the fault went away for a few seconds and then came back. There seems to be a bad connection somewhere. I've measured between EAS ECU connector and BECM connector, all nine(according to RAVE) earth/ground connections without finding something bad. Maybe it's a loose soldering in the BECM-connector?

    It's been two years since all air springs and height sensors was changed for new ones. Compressor was rebuilt a year ago.

    Has anyone had a similar fault they managed to solve?

    Regards

    John-Erik

    Yes, I phoned up Paddocks and ordered a spring conversion kit.

  3. Is that a new route? We're coming then going Kristiansand>Hirtshals drive to

    Esjerg>Harwich and return. If you're coming down the west coast and get as

    far as Stavanger pop in for a cup of tea. :D

    And don't take the 'motorway' to Oslo, go via RV41/ 37 and pop into Rjukan.

    (Heroes of Telemark, heavy water plant)

    Apologies, Kristiansand, don't know about the Harwich crossing, had a lot of trouble to book it, Bath Travel finally did it for us, about 200 quid return for the Landrover and two passengers if I remember rightly, I know its all booked for about the beginning of September which fits in with my next leave, three vehicles going at the last count, looking forward to it and thanks for the info about Rjukan.

    Regards Bill

  4. I love the EAS. :D

    How are you getting to the arctic?

    Yes, its lovely when it works, also too bl**dy expensive to keep in good condition.

    Harwich to Christiansand, across to Oslo then up North to Nordkapp and back down the West coast, thats the plan anyway.

    Bill

  5. At 7 tonnes it should have enough armour, stopping it sinking on soft surfaces might be an issue.

    It is a nice looking bit of kit, chatting to one of the guys that run them in anger and he was saiding its too small inside to be comfortable, I had a good nose about it and by the time they've got all the comms gear and other stuff its really small for a guy in body armour.

    They're also getting the Jackal mark 2, but I haven't seen any yet.

    Bill

  6. Been meaning to do this for ages, the P38's been as good as gold except the air suspension.

    Finally got the time so ordered a conversion kit from Paddocks.

    All arrived on time, everything fitted a treat and the instructions were spot on.

    Can't speak better than that, fitted some General Grabber tyres and she looks real nice now, all ready for the Artic trip on my next leave.

    Bill

  7. Any tips on bending aluminium chequer plate, its fairly thick at 3-4mm, i need to bend it 90deg. I thought if i put some heat into the bend that would help.

    Anyone got any ideas/tips?

    Presume you've no access to a proper folder, clamp it between two pieces of angle or some other steel and dress it over with a piece of wood, work your way along gradually, probably have to go backwards and forwards a few times depending on the length. Easiest way is to talk nicely to your local fab shop.

    Won't bother with adding the thickness of your material to get the correct dimensions of your fold, if it needs to be that accurate fab shop is the route.

  8. Around 18MPG on petrol, 16 on LPG assuming you don't spend all your time crawling in traffic or thrash it everywhere. With a bit of enthusiastic driving it'll drop as low as 14MPG on petrol and 12MPG on LPG.

    That's what mine used to do anyway and that had 145k on the clock when I sold it.

    I'll go with them figures, 18 month ago took the LPG tanks out for more room, did 5000 miles down through Europe, Morocco and back, that was a slightly pricey holiday, but what the ell.

  9. Hi all

    Got a CB to put in my bobtail And would like some ideas on where to put it Some pics would be niice??

    And

    In cab winch switchs Where abouts ?

    And what switches , ive heard just normal window switches are good to use.

    Any info please tell me?

    Winch switches, I just used the rear window switches in the central console, cos I aint got no rear windows and the central console is standard for two and four door Discos.

    CB, even lazier, two coat hooks and hangs down the passenger side, that way I can change it from car to car.

    Bill

  10. Hi all, I'm being stupid and can't get the forum search to find any 3 letter words, so I thought I'd post my question.

    Just wondering if anyone has any experience of running a diesel (either isuzu 2.8 or 200 / 300 tdi) with an LPG fogger system in the intake? I'm seeing very mixed opinions, though it looks like you can reap some rewards as long as you don't get greedy and crank it up too much?

    Any inputs appreciated.

    Cheers, Al.

    Funny that, I was in Aran Gas two days ago as I've a problem with the LPG system on my 4.6 Rangy, but thats another story, was talking to the guy about diesel LPG systems as a friend is interested.

    According to the ''experts'' the only economy is because the LPG boosts the performance so obviously you don't have to floor it as much, so if the idea is to boost the performance from your diesel seems like an idea, but purely for economy it seems not to warranted.

    My twopence worth, anyway I just like my V8s so stick with your smelly old chip fat burners. duck

    Bill

  11. i havent been there for ages! we usually go to the one thats open 24/7 at the hard by the habour station as its open all the time, and i will drive 40 mins for a burger at 3 am!

    Was talking to the guy the other day, about him being open new years eve and apparently hes open 24-7 now, so up the hill and is better for parking and sometimes the view.

  12. UncleBill, take a chill pill... :)

    I fitted the aforementioned 'Wolf/HD' (same thing) rims, tubeless, with my 255/85 BFGs. SteveG also had the same issue, changed about the same time and also cured his chronic flatness. Our rims came from AJS, Kingswood - make sure you buy the tubeless ones.

    What I cannot fathom is that yours go flat with tubes in... although the one that went flat over night probably got pinched, I did that several times when fitting tubes in mine. The others may simply have abraded the tubes on the insides of the tyres which are not designed for tubes and so are not properly smooth. I have also had this happen in the past.

    HTH

    Chris

    Is that the chill pill made by Bells, thanks for the info will give them a ring tomorrow, thats whats is puzzling me, the only thing that I've been thinking is are the tubes being rotated, but then the valve would have been pulled out, porous rims, no their steel, the tubes come out faultless every time, sometimes their good for a while, did a fun winch challenge last week, no problems.

    Think its going to be one of those unsolve problems, but will definately give AJS a ring , thanks again

    Bill

  13. I expect you are using 8-spoke or Modular rims? It seems a common complaint. You could fit bead lockers or LR 'Wolf' or 'HD' rims. I had the problem you did, with the same size and type of tyre on 8-spokes; changed the wheels and have not had any problem since.

    Chris

    Hi, I'm about to commit suicide, can you let me know what wheels you fitted in the end, just spent most of yesterday having tubes professionely fitted(yes found a garage that would do it) and lo and behold front is flat as a pancake this morning and I'm supposed to off green laning this morning, bo**ocks, I need an offset as their fitted on a Disco so I'll have to do some measuring today.

    Cheers for any help, recommendations.

    Bill

  14. Surely it's a little odd if the problem is still there even with tubes in them,.......... they wouldn't go flat by pushing the beads off would they..????

    This is whats doing my head in, thought originally that the tube inflating was pushing the tyre out onto the rim and partially sealing it to form a type of cushion between the tube, tyre and rim. Much pushing of valve trying to 'bleed' it or perhaps the tube is being twisted, don't know exactly thats why I've posted.

    They're steel Disco rims that have been reversed by the way, think i might have to splash out on something i suppose.

  15. Any thoughts, running 255x85x16 BFG muddies on reversed rims, I ran them for 5000 miles through Europe Morocco and the Sahara absolutely no problems and no punctures and no tubes.

    But since i've been back and doing the usual play days and green laning the front two have had problems with just going flat, usually slowly over a few days, have tried putting tubes in them and still the same problems,

    My thinking is that using the diff lockers is putting a side strain and pushing the the walls off the rim, I've had no problems with rear tyres just the front, and yes I do knock the front lockers off when I'm steering.

    I'm thinking that perhaps bead lockers could be the answer, but before I go to that expense thought I'd get your input and then ignore everyone and spend too much money as per usual.

    Cheers Bill

  16. Hi, OK dumb moment of the new year, pulled the fuse on the air suspension by mistake whilst the engine was running, hence I now have the air suspension fault up on the dashboard.

    Don't think its possible, but is there a trick way to reset the EAS without the magic box, I've disconnected the battery and am going to leave it overnight, but I suspect that will do nothing.

    If not its visit to the garage Monday morning.

    Cheers Bill

  17. there are too many to choose from-

    hoping for some advice on the most suitable make or model -

    i mostly need it for speed cameras and travelling around uk -

    cheers

    Big John

    I had the Tom Tom XL wide screen and found it excellent for when I had to go into London, had it nicked and replaced it with a Garmin, I've found the Garmin not quite as good in London, poor bitching betty seems to get confused, I bought it as it is preloaded with European maps that I'll need next year.

    As a matter of interest I used my TomTom last year for my trip down through Morocco and across the sahara, with its lat and long facility and a set of aviation maps had absolutely no problems navigating.

    Cheers Bill

  18. Hi, if it helps, I've a 300 V8 with a 2" lift, I run 255x85x16 BFG muddies, no spacers, on steel disco rims that I reversed. Full lock no problems the only thing is that your wheel arches will need a bit of modifying, I used defender spats that fitted a treat with a bit of sculpturing.

    If you do a search there should be plenty about reversing wheel rims, patience is the watchword.

    Ran it down through Europe to Morocco and the Sahara last year, not a single puncture in five thousand miles and some of the rock fields were quite evil.

    Don't think you'll beat BFG's for what you appear to use them for.

    Thats my two pennies worth cheers Bill

  19. I find myself having to ask if you read or understood any part of the statement above or question being asked? :blink: :blink:

    Chuckle

    Without seeing it, its difficult to comment, I know my homemade winch bumper you'd never get off with an angle grinder without cutting away half the front end, but it is the easiest way, sometimes by cutting away the bumper in various places you can break welds, hammer and chisel and careful use of a hacksaw and breaking bits off is another.

    if you think an angle grinder is going to be a problem try and find someone with,an oxyacetalene cutter which you can with careful use tend to melt the weld out,

    Cheers Bill

  20. Sorry, I didn't respond immediately, then forgot.

    You asked about the BECM; this is a big gray box taking, with it's connectors and cables, all the space beneath the RH front seat. The fuse box is part of the BECM (Body Electronic Control Module, or something like that). All the ECUs in the car are connected to it, so it monitors what is going on. There is no 'Security' ECU, it's part of the BECM. The best place to find out the details is in the Electrical Section of the WORKSHOP Manual.

    IIRC this will mention the Sleep test.

    When awake the BECM draws AMPS, when sleeping it draws Milliamps.

    With an auto gearbox I understand there is a red light near the gear change lever; the light is dark when the BECM is sleeping. My car has a manual gearbox, so I'm relying on what I recall of other people's tales.

    If the problem is the BECM being awake, the most common cause is that the separate Receiver is responding to incorrect radio frequency signals. A search in this forum may reveal more, or check out the Rangerovers.net site and 38A forum, where searches will definately reveal all the details.

    Good Luck.

    Cheers very much for that info, I did actually tong test the main feed to the fuse box under the RH front seat and the power was milliamps, I will check your sugestion about the red light next to the gear selector, I just assumed it was part of the alarm system, problem is that there is no Haines book of lies for the P38, I'm going to pull the main fuse to the air suspension as I've had a small problem in the area, if no joy I'll get a diagnostic on it when I get time from work, in the mean time I can recommend the Black and Decker jump start pack from Halfords, had the battery die on me at work on Saturday and it spun it over no problem.

    Cheers again for the input

    Bill

  21. Because a lot of items are powered via the BECM this is a difficult car to check by the traditional pulling fuses method.

    It becomes essential you have the wiring diagram.

    Have you checked if the BECM is going to sleep?

    Automatic or Manual gearbox, and if Automatic, do you always leave it in Park (as you should do)?

    Just as background, have you had the car long, and how long has it been doing this battery discharge?

    Cheers

    PS, there is nothing desperate about pulling all the MFs, except that you may have to reset the Windows, Sunroof, and Radio. If you carry on like this make sure you NEVER leave the key in the car unless the window is also left open, so you can retrieve the key if the car locks itself.

    On the safety side, do you have a second key?

    Does it work, both as an ordinary key and as a remote?

    Does you have the EKA?

    Is there any other known problem with the car?

    Cheers for the info,

    Yes I have the Rave cd discs so I have the wiring diagrams, what is the BECM, auto, yes its left in park, had it about two three years now, no problems except the cruise control as I said before, yes I have a second key, yes it works, one bad bit of design, when the batteries flat and you have a spare battery and jump leads in the boot, you cant open it because the central locking doesn't work, I suspect the the problem is in the air suspension unit, I've had a few problems in the area so I'm going to pull that fuse, other than that its been an excelent vehicle, sssh shouldn't say that.

    Other than that chichester 4x4 here I come, its been a good vehicle so I don't begrudge it.

    Bill

  22. Hi guys, any clever ideas, P38, new battery, alternator checked by Lucas and pronounced OK, with everything stopped I managed to borrow a DC tong tester from work and its showing about a 3.5 to 4 amp drain on the battery, I've tested the main lead to the fuse panel under the drivers seat and nothing, the drain is on the main lead into the engine bay fuse box. pulled all the fuses one by one and also the relays and no change, the only fuses I haven't pulled are the large bank on the right of the box, the handbook says not to pull these.

    Any clever ideas before I have to book it in for a diagnostic.

    Cheers Bill

    Oh, everything is working fine except the cruise control and I've never bothered with that anyway.

  23. Hello out there.

    Would someone be able to fill me in on how easy it is to change the fuel sender assembly on the top of the disco 200 tdi plastic tank, and if poss how much do they cost?

    Cheers.

    Andy.

    Don't know about a Tdi, but my V8 couldn't have been simpler, lift the rear floor or drop the tank just a few bolts unscrew the plastic ring and the whole assembly just lifts out, I'd taken up the floor so it was easy, not sure if you drop the tank if you can get to the flow and return pipes easily.

    About the best I can do.

    Bill

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