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Disco DJ

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Posts posted by Disco DJ

  1. I took the top parts of the switches off and used a fine paint brush in to what I could get to. I am going to give up on the rear windows for another few weeks now though as I have managed to score some nice cheap replacement parts for other parts of the Disco that weren't working.

    IF it is the switches it needs doing more thoroughly than that I'm afraid! The gunk inside the mechanism that flicks the contacts open to closed gets restricted. You need it in little tiny pieces, clean it up, then have fun reconstructing!
  2. Are you sure you cleaned the switches properly? Blasting them with cleaner is a waste of cleaner. I stripped mine down into little pieces at the kitchen table and just wiped everything clean with tissue. It is a bit fiddly. Also you could check their function with a multimeter whilst you're there. Did you say the fronts work fine? If so, can you swap switches to test?

  3. I just feel I should stand up a bit for the D2! I've had mine for 10+ years now, (2000 basic Td5, no air susp. no ACE, no sunrooves ), mines a LHD French car and has no chassis rot at all, so its not obligatory, it just depends where you keep it and drive it. Also I get 25mpg but 30 on the motorway. I should be much more nervous of P38 electrical gremlins. I also have a Defender 110 as well but to do the high miles I choose the D2 every time, 225000 km and counting.

    +1^^^^

    Had mine 10+ years, done 130,000 miles in it. Never heard that D2's had major chassis worries, thought that was all D1's!!

    Air suspension isn't "wallowy" it's brilliant for comfort and perfect for towing. Plus you can manually raise the rear slightly for off road. That's if it's working of course!!

    All 7 seaters came with air, option on the 5 seaters I believe.

    Avoid sun roof, look for air con (works well as long as used constantly).

    30mpg or just under has been the constant over 10 years with mix of country lanes/motorway/town etc.

    You should get a good one (facelift model) for less than £5k

    Dave

  4. My TD5's the same up Birdlip: I can drag a twin-axle Bateson loaded to 3500Kg all the way up Birdlip at 55 in 3rd with no problems. Without the trailer, it's 75+ (OK, OK, I know the limit's 60...)

    Rule #1 when towing uphill: at the bottom of the hill select the gear you expect to be in when you reach the top.

    3rd is the magic gear. You can motor up hill at 50 or crawl at tick over! Just to try it, I let my TD5 (with trailer) just pull itself up a small hill the other day in third, with NO gas pedal usage! It just drove itself up!

    Dave

  5. I tow regularly with my D2 TD5 (2002). Standard height, Air suspension, michelin latitude cross tyres (last for ages!)

    Never put a foot wrong, but I don't try to race round in it!

    Plenty of power with big Ifor and 2 x 600kg horses. Also same trailer fits 58 bales of hay and I collect from a site with very steep hill to climb! No probs with manual, never tried an auto.

    Dave

  6. Just found a leaky pipe on mine. The pipe that comes off the bottom of the expansion tank and goes to the fuel cooler "wore through" by rubbing about half way along. Played with the pipe looking for the leak and it crumbled (very brittle). New pipe ordered but patched together with a washing machine hose!!

    Dave

  7. Hello confused person ,I just wish life could be as simple as your quandry . I have recently been on a `run` around derbyshire with a group of Discovery td5`s ,howling rain ,cold ,what a day . One td5 owner complained at one of our many coffee stops `,I have just changed a Discovery 300tdi for this td5 and the 300 would beat it to death ,this is all electric the other was totally manual and go anywhere without hesitation,I made the wrong choice .Another friend has just paid a lot of money for a td5 Discovery ,first day filled it to the brim and left most of it on the road while driv ing home , later on ( 2 days )a misfire developed found to be an oil soaked wireing harness ( main dealer could not find prob ) this bloke is miff`d ,he traded his beloved ,new clutch ,new panels ,serviced ,m.o t.`d taxed 300 tdi Discovery for a shiny newer td5 and is now regreting the move .All in all if your only problems are niggles then spend some dedicated time sorting them or `pay` someone ,if you know your car and am basically happy then let your head rule your heart and not the other way round .Sorry but have been there .COACHMAN .
    Slightly condescending opinion there tbh mate.

    I don't think people are confused, there are just differing points of view. Some people love their 300's some love their TD5's. Some hate them equally!

    So you know a couple of people that have had problems with their TD5, not exactly a poll is it?

    I don't think a 300 would "beat it to death" as you found out in your other post when you got stuck on an incline. The TD5 would probably have pi55ed it like your TD4 did with traction control.

    It may be that yours isn't running right?

    Dave

  8. How good are the brake discs? (Measure the thickness)

    If they're worn, change them anyway first (never a waste of time having good brakes!) and see how you get on. This fixed mine last month and it hasn't come back yet.

    (My Fault code read as both rear sensors, intermittent fault)

    Dave

  9. I've had my 2002 TD5 since it had 4k on the clock, so about the same as you and I've driven over 120,000 miles in it.

    I've had LOADS go wrong with it, but it still remains a great tool (for towing especially)

    You could buy a TD5 and have no issues. You could buy one and get a £1500 fault within a month!

    The question is how good is YOUR Disco? If the only faults are ones you can rectify yourself, fairly cheaply, I'd stick with yours. Unless you can buy a TD5 from a friend you may be getting more problems than you have now!

    BUT they are great cars- when they're running well.

    Dave

  10. many thaks for the replies, will be checking as soon as the frost has melted :unsure: bloomin cold at the moment brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!! :o :o

    ron.

    Took me a week to check mine as kept going out and forgetting then not checking cos it was hot. Also found the oil was low, but that's another story!

    Dave

  11. Mine did that couple of weeks back. Checked it once cold and the level was RIGHT down. Possibly so little water in there it was measuring air for a bit and the reading fell!

    Found a couple of leaks and added a bottle of Radweld for good measure and have had no problems.

    Coolant temp sensor is easy to change though (that was my first thought before I realized I didn't have much water in there!) and about £14 I think.

    Dave

  12. Are there any other spots for major oil leaks on the TD5?

    Yes, the plastic cover on the front of the head where the cam is fitted through.

    If the 'bung' comes loose engine oil will flow freely when the engine is running.

    Peter.

    Yep, I can vouch for that. I was losing oil so just changed mine.

    It was leaking badly (you can see the crud around the cover if it is leaking) and if you tap it it'll be loose!

    Remove engine cover and fan/radiator cover and you'll see the black disc on the front of the engine behind the top of the fan blades. It has an o ring round the outside that flattens out and hardens over time. You'll see a grove either side of the disc to pop it out (although if it's loose enough it'll pop out easy)

    New ones (from LR) are around £14.

    Fitting the new one isn't "easy" as it's a lot tighter, so I covered it in oil to help it go in and gave it gentle persuasion with a large tool!!

    Dave

  13. I'm no expert on this but out of interest, if you loaded the back or hitch a heavy trailer, will it level again? That would give some indication that the system is functioning.

    Does sound like a SLABS problem or perhaps calibration, I know they're fussy systems.

    Most of them just leak, at least you know where you are then!

    Dave

  14. Hi guys SLS problem (its a 2001 disco ES) :)

    On the way home tonight the sls warning light came on. jumped out had a look round the car all sitting level and at the correct height, switched off and unloaded etc. then i had a quick look.

    Switched the engine on and no SLS warning light this time.hit the off road height button, one ping and the light flashes (the offroad height light eg the one with one arrow up and not the SLS warning light) on the dash and nuthing it just keeps flashing and I can not hear the compressor running.

    Checked the fusible link FL9 all good so I pulled the relay R5, bridged the contacts and i can then hear the compressor, so i know that is working.

    I am thinking might be a problem with the height sensors... they look ok but i have not pulled and checked the connectors are clean yet.

    Now that i think about it in the last few days i have not heard the system settling down from normal ride height after parking up.

    What else should i look at/test?

    Thanks

    Paul

    You had the doors closed didn't you?

    Dave

  15. We are lucky enough to have plenty of sponsors lined up - Mostly to do with Land Rovers etc... so that's another reason for going down the route of ex- service.

    Sure the trip will be nuts either way. More than likely going to have our fair share of break downs - 10,000 miles in a Land Rover without ANY problems... Not going to happen ;)

    Thanks for all your comments so far!!

    I'd be happy going 10k in MY Disco, because I know it. Don't think I could buy a sh Disco and have the same faith, as said laws of prob say you WILL have a break-down!

    I did tour Iceland a bit (2kish) in a Suzuki Grand Vitara- quite capable and didnt ever feel like it was going to put a foot wrong (few rocks and a fair bit of snow). That's not a bad cheap alternative tbh.

    Dave

  16. I've got fully synthetic oil and it runs lovely, so it's not just that.

    The Turbo does kick in at around 2500 rpm so that seems relevant.

    No idea from there though, sorry!

    Dave

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