Josh NZ
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Posts posted by Josh NZ
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My 109V8 must have been specced up by its first owner then because it was a cab chassis but had a full headlining, plus pillar trims, door cards and high back deluxe seats!
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My 1982 sales brochure has a county spec list on the 109V8 page but only has pictures of the full fat station wagon, so can't comment on a 3dr hardtop.. It also shows the 88" county spec with everything that Lewis mentioned bar the rostyles.
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Very common to go wrong, the inside delaminates and acts like a one-way valve
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What's the condition of the little Flexi-hose like?
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I run an Auto Meter pyrometer albeit in my 70 series Landcruiser (dirty word, sorry!) and it's excellent. Cost a lot but then again quality only usually hurts once!
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I don't think NZ got the commercial model Don. That version is a bit more basic than your average north shore tractor!
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I have the Dremel versatip and it's brilliant! It's easy to use and comes with a good selection of tips. The exhaust thing caught me out the first time when I melted the surface I was soldering on! I now use the exhaust to shrink the heatshrink.
I have 240v irons but to be honest I use the Dremel one more.
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A 13BT could be worth a look. 3.4 turbo, direct injection. They make around 110/120hp in stock form depending on the version. Heated intake instead of glow plugs.
A little on the clattery side being DI but good strong motors otherwise.
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34510&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1
Might an option worth considering.
Have you considered Toyota 4cyl diesel? Or are they too pricey?
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SD33
LD28
RD28
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In NZ a company named forward specs offered this conversion (Nissan LD28) into a defender and mated them to LT77s I believe. I think they were contracted by the NZ Air Force to fit out their 110s . There was one for sale on trademe.co.nz not long ago.
Common to see series trucks with them here too. Great motors, some folks have had success turbo-ing them
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Almost sounds like it had diff lock engaged..
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Switched feed to the stop solenoid?
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It's probably a combination of the door hinges sagging and tub perhaps sitting a little high. Does the tub have any packing under it? Similarly, do the door hinges have a lot of play in them?
If it's the door hinges, make sure to adjust the catch afterwards so it shuts again!
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Spray wd40 in/around the air intake joints and if it revs up you have an air leak somewhere
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Here's my "fairly rough" effort! Would look good plastered across the back of a shirt/jersey i think!
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In one of my old S2a's, i ran a 2.25p that got a head skim to get 9:1 CR. I can't remember the exact figure but it wasn't anywhere near your timing figures. I think the timing or mixture is causing your issue.
I just set the timing by ear once the motor had been rebuilt.
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Hi, and welcome to the forum.
Maybe worth removing the fuel pickup tube out of the fuel tank and check the siff (if it has one). Sounds like you sucked a lot of dirt out of your empty tank and it has blocked something.
Daan
^^This
There will be some crud blocking the pickup tube every once in a while which gives the intermittent problem.
You have a few options: replace fuel lines with new hoses, drop tank and clean it out fully, clean/service pickup. Small shot of compressed air into the tube should be ok if my memory serves.
Let us know how you get on
Josh
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Have you read this thread CD?
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=88182&page=2
Might have some good info in there
Josh
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Are you running a switch for each light? If so there is not much point to the single relay as each switch will be carrying the full current anyway. If I was doing it I would (maybe) run a positive from the battery to post on your fuse block which would have a fuse for each light presumably and then a relay for each light (or bank of commonly switched lights). The fuses will probably be a similar size to the head lights depending on how many lights per fuse etc (I think my range rover has one for left and right lights and possibly high and low beam as well for instance)
I'm running 1 switch for the two big spots, 1 switch for the 3 on the roof tray and 1 for the work light. The other switches are for other accessories at this stage. I was thinking 15A cable would be sufficient for the whole thing?
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Mods, if this is deemed inappropriate then feel free to remove.
I'm about to start a spotlight install on my truck, and I need some advice from the collective electrickery experts on wire ratings/fuse ratings etc.
Truck is a 1987 TLC, BJ71. It's 24 volt.
My plan is to run a total of around 6 spotlights. 2 on the front bumper, 3 on the roof tray facing forward and 1 facing rearward as a work light.
The 2 big spots will be Hella Rallye 4000s and the 4 smaller ones will be Hella Comet FF450s. I will be running 24v bulbs from the TruckStar Pro range, 55w I think.
I bought this fuse box.. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Passive-Components/Circuit-Protection/Other-Circuit-Protection-Products/10-Way-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-LED-Indicators/p/SZ2008
Will it work ok with what Intend to do? I'm
Assuming the nut on the end is for a positive power feed.
For switches I'm running 6 Hella rocker switches in a clip together Hella switch bank which I'm hopefully going to fit in the DIN pocket just underneath my stereo. http://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/accessories/switches/rocker-switch-off-on-universal.html#prettyPhoto
The truck has an existing loom in the engine bay with a pair of relays on it, the sheathing saying CIBIE COMP, so I'm going to assume it's up to the task.
So, what I'm asking is what else do I need to make this all work, best route for wires eg Battery to fuse box to switch etc and what fuse ratings/cable ratings should I use? I have a large pack of grommits/glue heat shrink/crimp connectors and I'm keen to make a tidy job of it.
Thanks in advance!
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I'm not familiar with that type of O/D, but it sounds to me like excessive pressure in the case if its spraying out. Can you tap a breather into it?
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Dare I say it... Toyota diesel? Or is that too expensive/similar to what's in there now? My 13BT is fantastic
or a 4.2? -
Hi Peter.
What configuration is your truck? Hard top, truck cab, canvas top etc.
Can you fabricate items or are you looking to buy off the shelf?
Our Army here in NZ used Stage 1 V8 series 3s as their primary vehicles for years and I think they had a double jerrycan holder on the rear tailgate or on the back of the tub. Google images will be your friend on that one.
Otherwise you could look at some MOD vehicles and see if there's anything there you could use.
Google is your best bet for inspiration, and there are some very clever folk on here who have probably done exactly what you want to do!
Hope that helps!
Josh
or a 4.2?
Blasphemy
in International Forum
Posted
This may help you out info wise. I feel bad posting a rival forums address on here though! They have helped me a lot with my cruiser over the last couple of years!
http://forum.ih8mud.com
And the only online parts supplier worth using. Their Electronic parts catalog is second to none!
https://www.amayama.com/en/