Jump to content

trr777

Settled In
  • Posts

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by trr777

  1. Ok, I should edit this to read, I know the timing is out (thats why the engine stopped, when the belt stripped) and nothing is broken in the valve train (bought a new set of push rods with the timing belt kit) would like to know if there's any other experience of this or what caused it as the belt was allegedly not that old?, did'nt appear overtight either, thanks.

  2. Hi everyone, just started my first ever attempt at changing a cam belt, :blink: on my Discovery 200tdi which I use for RTV's when I'm able to ,anyway, I digress, just stripped everything of and removed the timing chest cover to find the belt still in one piece apart from a section approx 7" long, where all the teeth had stripped off, just leaving the belt backing holding it all together. Is this normal/typical of cam belt failure?, or does it indicate some other problem?, engine still turns over fine,on the starter, also , strangely, this problem occured when the engine was ticking over!?, any thoughts/experience much appreceiated

  3. Hi, I used a Payen head gasket set on my 200tdi, not the cheapest, but seem good quality. Do have the head skimmed, and if you cant see why the old gasket failed, get it pressure tested as well!. You will need a protractor as the head studs are tightened by pounds foot first, then by deegrees, as far as I am awhere, you will need to reset the tappets.

  4. I had the same problem on my 200tdi, turned out to be the control wire from the ignition switch at the starter end, it had slowly cooked over the years and gone high resistance. easily proved by attacheing a meter set on 12v to the terminal end, and waggling the wire, the break inside the insulation was less than one inch from the terminal!, easily fixed, thank God!!.

  5. Not sure about the gasket itself, maybe an adult will come along soon :) but we were having a heck of a time over here getting proper torque with after market head bolts, we now use Land Rover genuine only.... and i am referring to 200/300 tdi's (my mechanic friend retrofits them into Series and Defenders)

    Thanks Dave, best of luck with it, Tim.

  6. Hi all, I'm sure this has been asked before!, but, does anybody know what the tappet settings/gaps, and cylynder head bolt torques should be for a 200tdi?, its L reg, 93/94 if that makes any difference. Many thanks, Tim.

  7. the springis in the lock mech, you need to remove it, to replace the spring, its not easy if you have big hands :huh:

    Thanks men, but I've fixed it! no wonder I could'nt see any thing wrong all it needed was the 7mm nut on the end of the rod leading upto the internal handle pinching up a bit to take out the slack, you were right about the large hand problem Russ!!, would of been easier to reskin the bl**dy door!, thanks, Tim.

  8. hey buddy had a a similar problem with mine, sounds like the little spring has snape on the lock mechanisum, the are pennies on ebay, look under `landrover springs.

    if your not far from Brecon, I wil open the door for you, well show you how I did it.

    Thanks for the offer, where exactly is this little spring situated?

  9. Hi all, passenger door wont open from the inside, had a look inside the door, can't see whats wrong, tried the search directory but still no wiser!!, can anyone put it into plain (simple) english for me please, thanks, Tim.

  10. Hi

    Relay clicking normally means not enogh power from the battery to the starter. Bad connections are often the problem, as is poor battery. Check all conections on the cables. Take them off and clean them so you will have a good contact. You have to check both positive + and negative - . make sure minus from the starter to batetry is OK.

    Best regards

    Lars

    Thanks for all your replys chaps, today I checked the starter by shorting across the permanant live to the starter and the spade connector on the starter solanoide, bingo starter turned over! :rolleyes: I then checked for 12volts coming out of the starter relay, yes! :rolleyes: turned out the fault was in the wire from the starter relay right at the lucar connector, new connector and end of problem :P , for now anyway!!! Tim.

  11. Sounds more likely battery related to me especially in the cold weather of late..........

    Plus, I always go for the (in this case, only slightly), cheaper option first..........

    Thanks, but I've tried the easy/cheap options already, no joy, dont you just love 'em :rolleyes:

  12. sounds like the starter's knackered to me. the cold weather just has a habit of showing it up more, especially after being sat overnight

    Thanks Jim, I knew it!, I bl**dy new it :(:( , its just cost me 2days work to get it through the mot last week, now this :angry: Tim

  13. Hi all, I have a starting problem on my 200tdi, first start of the day the starter motor is very sluggish, thereafter ok!, sometimes like this morning the starter wont operate at all :angry: I can hear the relay clicking but nothing else, any advice gratefully received as I have got to tackle this in the morning :unsure:

  14. Hi, anybody got any ideas for the plumbing of the fuel system on my 3.9efi hybrid?, slightly confused as I'm not sure if I need a low pressure pump between the fuel tank and the swirl pot and then the high pressure pump to the injectors, thanks, Tim.

  15. Yup, definately need a cooler. You would do well to replace the bog brush one too as under heavy load off roading it doesn't cut the mustard.

    Ok, now we're getting somewhere, if the bogbrush is'nt up to it, then what would be a better option?, should it have its own fan? or can you over cool it?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy