tobes
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Posts posted by tobes
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Can anyone suggest the correct procedure for removing the galvanising from a galved land rover chassis? I presume its possible by dipping it in some form of acid?
I have a 90 with a galvanised chassis that I have hacked about and needs a rebuild, as I cant afford a new chassis at the moment (and this one has been galvanised from new) I was hoping to get it stripped to bare metal, do the work and then worry about the re-finish later on.
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Nope. There were 2 anniversary editions. The common one that most of us think about when we see "50th Anniversary" is the turquoise one with a roll cage, auto box and the 4 litre V8.
The actual colour was called Atlantis Blue and there were only 1000 or so vehicles built, and about 400 of these were for the UK market, hence the still high premium.
However, a second, less common Defender was released at round about the same time (1998), which did indeed have a TD5 engine. This was called the "Heritage" edition, and was available as a 90 or 110 inch, as opposed to the one I mentioned earlier, which was 90 only.
The Heritage was available in 2 colours, Bronze Green & Atlantic Green. It had body colour matched wing mirrors & wheels and a mesh grille. It was supposed to be reminiscent of a Series 1.
HTH
Martin
There were some late 300tdi 90 hardtops released as '50th anniversary' models too.
I didnt realise the Heritage was a '50th' model, I thought it was released closer to yr2000, but it say it was on Wiki
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I sold one last month on ebay, in similar condition, for £247!! I had people messaging from france etc
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Goodrowes in Chichester, there was a large selection there, they just cut it off the roll for you
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Somebody is having fun
The first picture looks like it was taken mid roll, but apparently not! I definitely wouldnt want to be the one attatching the strop
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I am currently fencing along side a very wet/muddy bridleway (which I think has vehicle access to a house at the end), yesterday I saw a tesco delivery van go up the bridleway to access the house, shortly afterwards a couple of people came along moving large logs etc into the track to stop any vehicle going through. This morning I arrived at work nice and early just in time to see the same log moving people take a detour into the field, to avoid the mud that is in the bridleway
the muddy bridleway is clearly caused by horses and foot traffic.These people that complain do not see that they are equally capable of causing damage and of being in the wrong. There is a well worn track,even horse tracks, trampling through a hedge and about 10-15 metres into the field.
I ve even been told by the land owner that they once caught a couple of ladies in their 70's cutting through a newly installed wire fence 'because it blocked the track'
they had come armed with wire cutters ....... the 'track' was a deer run that they had presumed was a footpath! -
trade plates could be an option. The seller has cancelled his insurance so is unable to tax it himself.
The safest option is that i'll have to take two trips..... trailer costs Vs train ticket and a weeks wait
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Thanks guys
There are plenty of ANPR cameras along the way, I just wanted to know the legality of it, its not something I am prepared to take the risk on. I ll have to have a re-think
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I am looking at buying a discovery, its far enough away from me that I would like to take cash with me to (hopefully) buy it and take it there and then. Its MOTed but not taxed.... Am I legally allowed to drive it home if i have the new keeper section of the V5 and other documents? My only day off is sunday so going straight to a post office isnt an option.
I have tried a quick google but it hasnt really helped!
I dont have a trailer either, any other options for getting it home?
many thanks
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Its 4muddyfeet.com
the waffle holders are HERE
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I havent oiled it. I had a good look at all the mechanisms, they seemed to be working properly and freely but that is definitely worth a try!!
If not, is it possible to buy just the latch (the part that drops over the striker)? I presume I can get them somewhere, but any ideas what the part number is? or the correct technical name for it so that i can phone round!!
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Hi,
As the title says.... my push button door keeps flying open
even on a straight stretch of road it seems to 'pop' open.I have tried adjusting the door on its hinges, as well as adjusting the catch/striker.
Does anyone have an other suggestions before I order replacement bits? Are there any specific parts prone to wearing? (springs etc?)
If not, does anyone have an exploded diagram of the door and internals, and part numbers?
Many thanks
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Slightly OT but THIS website has some useful info, not axle weights but has track widths/ground clearance etc
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Sorry, not sure I understand your post. You drop it into a garage on 12th August for a service and were happy to wait until 6th October to pick up. Somethings wrong if they needed more than a day to service your Defender.
Definitely not been happy with waiting so long! I had contacted them continually looking for updates but had been unable to physically visit due to work. I too was expecting a day or two at most.
Thanks for the help guys. i did pay in part on a debit card so I will look into that if i cannot get him to agree to a fix this morning. I can just about cope with the delay and some of the work.... I am just completely bemused by how he has chopped parts off my truck without even a phone call!!
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A similar thread to a few recent posts unfortunately but am after some advise!
My 90 had been just a toy up until recently, but needed it back on the road so i bought a really nice rear winch cross member (almost identical to d4x4 and the workmanship was spot on! laser cut/folded etc) to avoid an issues with road legality
I spent a few days fitting it, as well as making a temporary rear 'tray' (think working Australian Ute rather than offroader!) as I couldn’t find a proper rear tub at the time.
I sent it off to a local 'land rover specialist' for a service, as time was really tight and I need it on the road ASAP
That was on the 12th of august.......... just picked it up this morning
after a week i gave them a call - the boss was out.....
after the 2nd week i called again "apologies sir, we have had trouble with the previous job, we are working on yours" so i asked if they could give it a pre-mot check and report back to me what needed doing BEFORE doing the work as i am working on a tight budget, and needed it on the road as their courtesy car was not exactly suitable for my line of work!
To cut a long story short...... i get a phone call on friday (3rd october) saying all the work has been done they just need to fit some rear arches!
Get there this morning to be greeted by a huge bill (well much bigger than expected seeing as he had promised to call before doing anything!) and some effing great big truck arches squeezed in the back.
I kicked up a stink at the time but foolishly paid as i was in a rush. he said he thought he had called me to ok the work!
I've just been out to check it over properly and discovered they have taken an angle grinder (one that cant even cut straight lines!!) to my newly fitted rear cross member..... just so they can fit the arches
and the standard of work is completely unsatisfactory..... bare steel etc etc. I could probably JUST about accept the poor work…. But to cut chunks off of someone elses vehicle just to get a part to fit seems bit out of order to me!I dont have any pictures of mine but these are the bits cut off (the crossmember is visually identical)
I've never had to complain regarding poor standard of work before..... any advise happily taken.... have i just lost my money? Been trying to get hold of him by phone all afternoon but he is out!
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Does anyone have the dimensions of a 90 rear crossmember?
perhaps a dimensioned drawing? i only need the basics
thanks
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I was just reading about those winches today!
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I found a free 'Bend-Tech EZ' package online, its only a trial version but seems pretty good.
its not as much use for the tubela type bender though, as there is still quite a lot to get your head around when translating the measurements onto the tube, it suits the JD2 style bender perfectly.
The trial version (i cant remember what site i downloaded it from!) only allows one type of 'tooling' and 'material' and is only the 2D package
I can stick a copy on disk if you wanna have a play around with it to help make up your mind!
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Quite a good solution!
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the muddy bridleway is clearly caused by horses and foot traffic.
they had come armed with wire cutters 
Dipping a chassis to remove the galv?
in International Forum
Posted
My thinking behind dipping it was that I intend to weld large areas , often in the fiddly places where th grinder cant get, and I didnt know if I would then have to re drill all the holes after its secong galving..... I was looking for the easy option!