Paul2A
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Posts posted by Paul2A
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Pretty much what I was thinking, if the fork has come off the release bearing there should be a bit of movement 'up and down' if ya like.
I find it is a good idea to use a few elastic bands around the fork and bearing to make sure it sits tight whilst being offered up.
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If I move the clutch fork in the bell house it moves freely but there
is no resistance, should there be? How does the slave cylinder get
pushed back in, or is drawn in by the return action of the master?
Hello Ben, the fork will pull out towards you quite freely, however it should not move all the way in, when pushing it in if it's getting close to hitting the casting you have problems.
Have you tried to gently waggle the fork up and down? is there any movement?
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Things to check, not trying to teach you to suck eggs mind
Power at the glow plugs, don't just rely on the dash light, check it at the plugs, and check the plugs
fuel pipes especially sender pipes on the tank, cracks and air getting in?
Pump timing?? a few degrees out will make a lot of difference on an auto
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it doesn't matter if its direct or indirect they will ALWAYS start better from cold with full throttle. just try it for yourself or ask any trucker as all HGVS are direct injection and if you listen to anyone starting a truck in the morning youll hear that this is how they start them.but if you just want to turn the key and hope for the best then good luck.
I think you are referring to the older cav and simmens pumps, where full throttle would be applied and a quick pull on a 'cold start cable' would trip the excess fuel plunger , which is then only cleared by allowing the engine to rev out a little, a caring driver would usually crank the engine for a few seconds first to get the oil moving, an uncaring driver would just crack it up and rev it flat out
I've seen crankshafts that have turned blue from such idiots 
First thing in the morning do you jump out of bed and run to work, no clothes, breakfast and unbrushed teeth, no didn't think so, you need a stretch and a bit of an amble round the bathroom, stairs, and kitchen, allows your body to warm up a bit, engines are no different, start them on little or no throttle ( read the manual is the best way), and when they go give them just enough so they don't idle irregular, then take it easy for the first few minutes
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There is a really good article on this in one of the landy mags, cant remember which one but it was fairly recent, have a look through the back issues and see if you can find it, mite be of help
Land rover international nov 07 page 204
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The parts that I managed to get came to day (new shaft and the brass bush) but I don’t need them to now, its stopped leaking now and I have done over 100 miles to make sure and its OK, it must have been a bit of dirt that came up between the shaft and the bush and got behind the O Ring at the top of the shaft then cleared its self, I will have to change the fuel filter now to make sure that nothing else gets through
I very often find these shaft seals will start to leak after pressure washing, or being worked by hand and sometimes will settle down again, sometimes not.
The job is easy enough to do and the pumps sits upright ish which works in your favour, if you decide to diy then be careful not to crack the case as you driving out the old brass guide, take notes as you do it or better still take pics for reference.
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The metal cap I think your referring too is in fact a needle bearing, removing it will not help!
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Or..........
got an old alternator lying around??? may be a electric motor as well......
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/my-diy-tig-welder-77730.html
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Don't set the power to high, on my 170 oxford ( old but reliable
) i go for about 70 / 80 amps, wire speed is higher than when welding mild, nearly half as much again, gas is only a touch more than with mild, make sure the work piece is cleaned immediately before beginning to weld preferably with a ss brush, for some reason the weld will sometimes pop and spit a little before creating a pool, so you may want to start a little further away from the area to weld, don't try to weave just drag the pool along ( quickly), if you can see the wire penetrating deeply you may have air in the mix, either from to much gas flow ( dragging air like a vortex ) or not enough gas, pay attention to what you can hear should sound consistent.The welds you've done actually look quite good, using the steel backer will help with sags and holes, keep it up!
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Reading this I have to tell you a story of a customer I used to deal with when I was in the motor trade. He always had a stagger and used a walking stick, one day we got to talking about what happened to him.
He was under a car welding when a piece of molten metal went in to his ear - of couse because it was molten it melted the wax and went straight through the ear drum and basically inside his head destroying his inner ear etc. He now has no sense of balance, feels perminatly dizzy/sick and has to take drugs every day just to get by, plus he regularly has flashbacks.
I now use ear plugs whenever i weld under a car for a few pence for ear plugs its got to be worth it!
On a similar note try not to wear rigger boots when welding / burning, I had a bad experience a few years back whilst burning the exhaust bolts off a nissan, one of the glowing red hot bolt heads dropped into my right rigger boot, pulling the boot off was a no no as the bolt head was stuck on top of the arch of my foot
so i ended up on my back shaking my leg like Bruce forsyth in the mens rooms 
the bolt dislodged itself only to get caught up in my overalls, which quickly started smoldering 
, it took many years for the burn to heal, but my overalls were buggered for ever -
Does this mean that I am abnormal because I can stick weld upside down??
No we are perfectly normal people
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Usually there are two security screws, remove these the box should pull away leaving the one wire and a horse shoe shaped bracket, remove these and put your standard wire to the solenoid as usual
If the screws are the type that break off try a small shape chisel to tap them round or 'dig' a little of the plastic away to get a set of grips to it.
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I have 5 makita grinders, 2 small 4inch, one with a grinding disc for tight places and one with hard rubber back pad and sanding discs, and 2 5inch, a long handled type for grinding or wire wheel and a shorter thumb swith type again with rubber pad and hard type sanding disc and a 9 inch, usually with a cutting disc on it, they range from 4 to 12+ year old.
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What about the lighter fluid trick?
Easy start works much better! but start with small doses
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Rather worrying....
its shape changes and i swear it looks like a motorbike with someone sat on the back!
looks like a sports bike, even has a big fat exhaust -
Funnily enough, had another Renault in today, broken turbine shaft.
Chris
I had a foden 3340 in with the same thing!! it had managed to suck nearly 40 litres of oil out of the sump smoked a bit too 
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Thanks for the replies guys, I see the axles are worth two points along with the suspension, in the case of the axles can the front be converted to disc without losing those points and can the original springs be changed for parabolic again without losing points?
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Exactly what is wearing? the grooves on the inside of the syncro the teeth, second gear's gear?
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Give it a good wash down with brake cleaner or similar and find an old rear view mirror to help you see the leak, may well be an easy fix!
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This may seem a little obvious but if your changing the oil check the oil strainer for build up of carp, located at the rear of box large hex head just b4 trans box. ( on underside)
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I'd also have a look at the turbo, check the pipe between turbo and inter-cooler for excessive amounts of oil, if unsure start the engine and see if the turbo is emitting oil / oil mist.
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Hello all, First off may I say sorry if this sort of thread has been done to death already
I have been reading various threads about coil overs, tdi's into series, sva etc as I have a 2a which is a bit poorly, she's missing engine, gearbox/transfer box, front axle and props, however the chassis is reasonable so what I want to know is will I be able to keep to vehicle id (legally( tax exempt )) if I use disco running gear/ axles, will I be able to use the suspension mounts off the disco and weld them too the 2a? and how do insurance companies feel about these alterations?And if that all sounds good some suggestions on how to do the work, p.s I have my own business repairing vans / hgv's welding and plasma cutting are an every day experience
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Just thought I'd add my two pence worth
, what thickness material are you welding?, get some similar sized (thickness) metal and set the welder up to weld it nice right way up, by nice I mean no under cutting (bobbly looking, to little power / to fast wire, sits on metal like a bead) or cratering ( to much power, dips and sags) the welder should sound consistent not lots of spits and bangs just a loud sizzle, now try upside down, keep an eye on the weld pool if it gets to big cut the weld don't lift the mask or even move, ( some welders have after gas if yours has keep it on to save infecting the pool with o2) watch the pool as it starts to cool start the weld off again ( we are talking split second or so ) If your welder has burn back setting it is possible to move the torch further away (mm's), if not it'll just pop and spit, also I find .6mm wire useless, try .8mm and turn the wire speed down, and do clean the area first.When welding vertical try welding uphill it wont look as nice as a down hill weld but will be much stronger!
Sorry if I'm teaching how to suck eggs!
Hope this helps
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Just like to say hello to all, my name is Paul
, I'm 35, dark ( vanishing ) hair, about 6foot and to many pounds would like to meet................ only kidding! You guy's and girls will probably get pee'd off with me over the next few months as I've got lots of questions to ask, please be gentle
I've seen crankshafts that have turned blue from such idiots 
The metal cap I think your referring too is in fact a needle bearing, removing it will not help!
the bolt dislodged itself only to get caught up in my overalls, which quickly started smoldering 
, it took many years for the burn to heal, but my overalls were buggered for ever 
Gearbox mating Problem
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I'm not sure either, but i did have a thought!, have you had the clutch out?, and if so have you refitted the friction plate the wrong way round, IE fly wheel side out??