gomotomoto
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Posts posted by gomotomoto
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I have not measured the actual draw of the drain, but it will deplete a fully charge (and sound) battery in one week. I have not checked the alternator, but I will. The strange thing is that the test light is pulsing, which I thought was strange.
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Hi There, I have a 110 with a parastic battery draw. I've taken each fuse out one by one (using a test light)((with door closed)) and still have the issue. I've disconnected the stereo as well.
Does anyone has any experience tracking down these voltage droppers after all the fuses have been looked into?
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Thanks Mo Murphy. Is a tough job to replace the lines? I'm talking about the lines coming from the in-tank fuel filter.
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I have to replace all the lines coming from the in-tank fuel pump. Pic attached:
http://64.6.253.215/TD5/pipes.jpg
I'd like to repair them, but I don't think it's possible?
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I have to tackle this project without much support, can anyone help out with some guidance? Perhaps a thread or video that shows the process?I can't seem to find anything.
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I'm not sure that you can buy the clips on their own, I think you have to buy the pipe assy.
Mo
Thanks Mo Murphy, do you know of source where I can buy quality (non-factory) lines? Also, any idea how bad the job is?
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Here's a photo:
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One of the fuel pipe clips broke on my TD5 defender. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a new set at a good price?
I'm located in the states, so I'll need a company that can ship to me.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Mine's in. Works like a champ. Was a great investment. Truck is toasty warm now. Thanks for all the help from this forum.
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I will follow up for sure.
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yup, good detective work. when I google the 000150, I find a few images that have the same markings as the ones in my truck! Yes!!!!! Thank you Western.
Here's the url that has the image of the schematic, same as mine...
If you enlarge it, you can see the 1,2,3,5 marks.
Cheers
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think your right. We just had some extreme cold which has gummed up tons of stuff with the truck (and house!)
Thanks for the reply.
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thinking the other one is a
YWB 000150 -
hmm do you see the circuitry diagram on the top left? That one has 87,86,85,30
The top right one has 1,2,3,5 on it's diagram.
Am I mistaken thinking these are different relays?
When I put YWB10027L in the slot where the 1,2,3,5 relays are, the truck will not start. I have 3 brand new YWB10027L relays, so I know they are not all bad.
Sorry for this hassle, just trying to understand what's going on in here
Thanks for your patience with me. -
Here's a pic that shows one of the yellow relays with the wrong circutry inside of it (maybe this will help explain what is giving me fits). For some reason, I can't get the part houses to send me the one shown in the upper right of this photo. I think if I had the Land rover part number, I'll be good to go.
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Thanks so much Western. Here's a photo of the relays under my drivers seat. There's two of the yellow ones & one black one.
Can you tell me which part number is correct for the yellow one? The parts houses in the USA keep sending me the black relay (and I need the yellow one)
Odd thing is that the black one also has shown up in yellow, but with the circutry of the black one. Very confusing, but I'm sure if I can find the part number for the pictured yellow one, it will sort me out.
Appreciate the help.
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I had to take the door card off and have a look. I was kind of surprised at the problem. What i found was the aftermarket electronic door actuators are not lifting up one of the hinges enough to get the latch dis-engaged. Must be a cold issue and have things just a bit too contracted in there from the cold. I'll have to fashion a longer linkage from the actuator to the hinge. Should be easy enough to fabricate. (about 3mm longer than existing and that should solve it!
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110 2006 dcpu doors giving me some fits this winter. I the mechanism for the inside door handle and outside button are "lifting" the catch high enough to release the door.
It is crazy cold and I've used nearly a can of silicone spray. still won't lift all the way to open up. Is it possible the mechanism is iced up in there? or do you think the mech is shot?
Thanks!
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ah, sorry about that. It's an 86 defender 110 DCPU
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Freezing cold here today & my rear door won't latch/catch, seems fine as it swings up and down, but it just won't lock in place. Is there any tricks or tips for a quick fix?
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any idea which one V23136B1X33 93BG14N089B1B translates to on that link (http://lrcat.com/#31/4/52885) ?
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that is kind of strange. I have the following marked relays under my drivers seat:
Land Rover Ford Relay V23136B1X33 93BG14N089B1BI didn't see those in the links you sent, any idea what they are for? They are yellow with the above codes embossed on them.
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Thank you Western!
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Hi, I have some corrosion in my (later) 2006 TD5 fuse box area and want to order all new relays and relay female connectors (Having trouble with the part numbers for both the relays and the connectors)
Can anyone help provide part numbers for a little electrical overhaul project?
Thanks!
Thanks for your patience with me.
parasitic battery draw. Looking for some insight
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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