[Welding and Galv]

Just get the galv chassis, 99% of it will be protected perfectly, the small area you will weld will be insignificant, just treat it well after, waxoil etc etc, as for the fumes, yes they are not very clean but having done lots of galv welding years ago when people didn't realise the health implications i have to say I am still very well indeed. To be honest, a half hour welding will do all you engine / gearbox mounts with ease, no health probs there, I've done 30 yrs plus, and still going , you choose ( just chooose galv for the rest of the chassis sake ! ).

Oh !!!! and to weld the galv just grind back the plated surface and burn it well in, if you can weld you have no issues, if not then get practising.

[Welding and Galv]

Hi Jen,

Another vote for non galv, it will just be a soooo much easier and nicer experience doing all the mods, part of my work is welding/fab and believe me I don't relish having to do anything thats galvanised.....even with extensive grinding it's no fun.

Then as Fridge says after you have finished get it done with all the other bits you want done - bulkhead/ winch bumper, light guards etc , then the jobs a good'un , and no regrets ..it isn't expensive and worth doing right

Enjoy the build

Cheers

Steveb

Just get the galv chassis, 99% of it will be protected perfectly, the small area you will weld will be insignificant, just treat it well after, waxoil etc etc, as for the fumes, yes they are not very clean but having done lots of galv welding years ago when people didn't realise the health implications i have to say I am still very well indeed. To be honest, a half hour welding will do all you engine / gearbox mounts with ease, no health probs there, I've done 30 yrs plus, and still going , you choose ( just chooose galv for the rest of the chassis sake ! ).

[rebuild starts here]

Make sure you confirm the availability of the pistons and rings before getting the machining done. I did mine out to plus 60 only to be told by paddock they were not available any more.

[rebuild starts here]

my poor late night typing les, we have measured the bore as best (we popped a ring below the coke and used a mic to measure that diameter and then measured the ring width), it came out IIRC at 90.63mm so we believe the pistons are standard size, but have been replaced before. Paddocks sell rings in oversize to make up the difference, going up in 010, which I belive is give or take 0.02mm.

So what I meant to say was we are going to get the standard size pistons with the oversize rings, and if the ring clearance is below what we can have we will just trim the ends a bit. The current gap was about 2mm on the rings, ROM says it should 0.25-0.38mm (2nd ring as it happened) so no wonder the starting was lousy.

It's good to hear that the bearing shells do seem to wear more on the lower side - I can see it happening, but still surprised.

[engine bolts]

The rover manual does NOT require the big end or main bearing bolts to be changed during an overhaul on any of the 2.25 engines or LR 2.5, only big end nuts. Obviously if any are damaged then they will require replacing.

........I beg to differ as on the 5mb engines with the prefix 361.......the Rover manual clearly states that the main bearing bolts must be replaced. Indeed they put great emphasis on this point. It may well be that you can get away with not replacing them,.

[Series Lpg Self Install.]

Thankyou for a very interesting and informative posting ! I am seriously considering going down the same route as yourself and was wondering if you could help me with a few basic questions. I suppose I could ask an LPG kit supplier but they are biased arn't they ? Anyway here goes . How does this affect the insurance of the landrover ie , does it cost more ! and do you need an engineers report to satisfy the insurers ? Also, what are the service implications, can you do it yourself and is there much to it ? Sorry to be a pain but I am just now getting to grips with lpg and all advice would be greatly appreciated. I hope that I'm not hijacking the thread but what other tank locations have all you other forum users used and are happy with ? Many thanks.

[Another Parabolic Question...........]

Many thanks for your inputs, am keen to give it a go as I have a lot of work and money invested in my landrover and the thought of selling it for a car turns me pale !

[Another Parabolic Question...........]

Advice needed.........Due to a back injury I am having to have fitted a set of parabolic springs to my series 3 swb in a search for more comfort. It will now only be used on the road ( 99.5 % of the time ) apart from going up the dirt track to my home. Has anyone any preferences as to which make of parabolic springs are the best suited to road use? also anyone have suggestion on what make of dampers to fit to suit. Many thanks in advance .