custom-conversions
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Looks like a SC Jag v8 engine to me, should be an impressive setup
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32/10.5/16 is size in inches - 32" diameter, 10.5" wide, 16" diameter rim.
225/55/19 is metric size - 225 mm wide, 55 is aspect ratio of width the section height as a percentage (225 mm wide x 55/100 = 124 mm high), 16" (16 x 25.4 = 406 mm) diameter rim. Then tyre diameter is 406 mm + (2 x 124 mm) = 654 mm (25.7").
As Lars L said, all sizes are nominal only.
Need to add 3" as its a 19" Rim. 28.7" Diameter
Your 32's would be about an 11% increase
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Oh god now i`m even more confused
, yes its 240v and its err a Mig 
Keith
Most 200 amp mig welder will be around 13-16amp on 230v I reckon. They have their 200amp rated output at a lower voltage.
So I don't think you'll need a 48kW generator or anything close to that size. That size of generator would cost you thousands!
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Hi,my speedo has suddenly stopped working on my range rover classic,but it works when i go round a corner!!!,,its the electronic type...so im thinking its the sensor,but where is it on the rrc?..only thing i found is a sensor looking thing on the driver side rear hub,is this what it could be?..or is there another sensor i dont know about?,and is there any computer reseting issues with putting on a new one e.t.c..any help would be great as im at my wits end now,,why cant they just stick to cable speedos...
..thanks for any help...wayne.Its on the transfer box. Well it has a cable drive to the sensor which is mounted on the passenger side chassis by the gearbox mount.
Rear sensor you have found must be an ABS sensor.
No resetting procedure that I'm aware of.
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Thanks Pete. Very usefull info.
But I still can figure out the front ones. I'll keep searching.
I don't think the police fitted HD front springs.
The HD rears were just to take the extra weight of all the kit they carted around.
Lots of springs to choose from so you should be able to find a suitable spring for the front.
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Devon 4x4 are doing a special on 16x8 mach 5 bead locks set of four powder coated black for £249 including vat and delivery! im tempted to buy a new set cause i was just going to get my set blasted and powder coated and that was going cost over £200.
I think thats only for one wheel. Won't be all 4! I hope I'm wrong though & I'd buy a set at that price.
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Hi guys,
I have to start thinking about my final year project for my masters. Having dragged myself through a horrific project this year, I've decided it really needs to be something that I have a genuine interest in. Hence I thought LR, and starting thinking about electronic/electrical applications to do with LR stuff.
My initial thoughts were to make some sort of automatic electronically controlled locker, which senses loss of traction, and locks the diff.
However advantages of not needing airlines etc aside, I'm not convinced that a) it's really all that revolutionary (you can already get them to some extent), and B) it would really be that effective.
Can anyone either convince me otherwise, or come up with some different but still suitable electrickery LR based idea?
Should be reasonably effective although why not look at designing a basic traction control system if your looking for a challenge. The D3's seem to do quite well without locking front or rear diffs.
I am sure you could use the ABS components & axles with wheel speed sensors from a classic range rover so the parts would be fairly cheap & easy to source. No major fabriction required just the electronics & control circuitry.
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Why don't you just use the OEM crank sensor ???
I don't think the OEM crank sensor will work with ford EDIS. I think its 36-1 that you need, but I may be wrong.
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exactly - and you must have owned it for longer than 12 months too. otherwise it's still worth the same as it was yesterday.
but, it could still have an impact on 2nd hand prices, as ten year old cars with 12 months test on them could be snapped up by someone wanting to buy a new car next year, run the cheapo into the ground for 12 months - with the money saved splash out on a new G-whizz or something else equally pointless.
It seems a stange idea, the car you trade in for £2000 discount on a new car must have an MOT & then be scrapped!
Surely some cars are going to end up being scrapped when they have several years life still left in them just because the £2000 discount is worth more than the car.
I feel cars should be built to last longer than 10 years, as the recycling process isn't very efficient. So cars shouldn't need to be scraped at 10 years old.
The money could be better spent to help the car industry directly in the UK if they are looking to spend some Tax payers money. Rather than car manufacturers throughout the world.
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Max of Two lights symetricly placed, 24 watt or less bulbs...
I.E. NO SPOTLIGHTS!
What about some LED bulbs? Much brighter & low wattage. Guess they would fall within the law & they do spread the light quite well.
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some Audis
BMW v12's
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I know its an almost 3 years old thread but
, do you have any pics/ specs of your setup? Did you use a Rover or Disco as the donor truck?Thanks.
I looked at fitting a Softdash but its a lot of hassle. Too much hassle in my opinion.
The bulk head is different, so you will have to cut & weld the mounting tabs for the dash.
Wiring is totally different aswell, this would probably be the worst bit.
Heater & Air-Con unit different & the plumbings in a different location aswell so more alterations required to the bulk head.
Steering columns different aswell.
& probably some other challenges along the way.
It would be interesting to here from someone thats actually done the swap though.
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basicly do you need to have a front bumper and a windscreen to be legal............ just looking at possibly doing a build and being able to keep on the road legaly?
the chassis is not being touched, apart from adding a cage/space frame, engine gbox and axles still all the originals.
I don't think you need a windscreen but I think you do need a bumper.
If you don't have a windscreen I think you are require to wear goggles or a helmet. I could be totally wrong though, it was years ago when I looked into this a little bit.
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If I have been following the details correctly, it doesn't seem to be such a great mystery that things have progressed as they have.
Firstly there was the occurrence when they first became interested in the vehicle, the likely reason for which was identified as the car's appearance on this forum, then secondly there was the 8-page report and 50 photographs that you supplied detailing the modifications.
Those factors do seem to be all that would be required for them to request an inspection and class it as a radically modified vehicle (assuming of course that the details in the report sent to them substantiated that).
I hope all goes well for you. It looks like it's going to end up with a Q-plate to me, which I don't suppose will bother you in this case, will it?
Mike
Q Plates aren't the issue, its all the hassle getting a car through an SVA which is the problem. The chassis has been altered & VOSA don't seem to like chassis alterations.
I hope they don't make it too awkward for you.
An address change shouldn't cause all this hassle, I guess they have seen what you have done to vehicles in the past???
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No problem, just adjust it at the Throttle end and take it for a quick spin to see if it's to your liking. Be warned though that it is quite sensitive and if you slacken it too much you will knacker (is that technical tern allowed on these forums?) the gearbox.
Colin.
So how could it knacker the box if its too loose?
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When I got mine the woman warned me to be wary of certain items on 'special offer' because sometimes the trade price is more than the retail 'offer' price. Best to check the price before you pay. It may be cheaper to pay the full price
You have also got to watch what they are charging, sometimes its really cheap & a good trade price, sometimes its just a few quid of the regular (mugs price). Just don't presume you are always getting a great deal.
Paddocks (or other Lr specialist) can get lots of Land Rover parts much cheaper than Halfords. Halfords just rely on local motor factors to supply them & make very little profit on some items at trade prices, but won't be able to match the price of dedicated Lr parts supplier.
Its still good to have a trade card, their tool range is good & they honour their lifetime guarentee.
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Please crack on, there are plenty of us interested in the project. Don't worry about the doom and gloom merchants, there will always be people who don't agree. Only you know what you want to achieve.
Anyone who knows his onions will know that turbo lag doesn't need to be a factor if you choose the turbos correctly.
Turbos too big for the application will result in big power high in the rev band. Small turbos will give stump pulling power right at the bottom of the rev band but quickly run out of puff.
A combination of different sized turbos or VNTs can give power at both ends of the rev band and it seems you have a sophisticated system which will work too.
Carry on, and let us enjoy your project too!
Regards,
Diff
I'm sure turbo lag on a properly sized low pressure turbo won't be an issue.
Can't be like driving a 200TDi with respect to lack of power & lag.
I'd be interested to read about how you get on.
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I reckon there would be less spuriosly registered vehicles about if the DVLA made it a bit easier to be legal in the first place.
Yes, they do make the process unnecessarily difficult to comply with all the rules when it really shouldn't be difficult to register a modified vehicle.
They are happy enough to accept a home made chassis but can't accept shortening or changing a rear crossmember without a lot of hassle.
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Yes all the lockers work fine.
Paul
£5-600 ish i'd say if they are complete with the disc & calipers.
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Free naan bread for Range Rover owners at their local curry restaurant?
Free rolls of mig welder wire would be more usefull although I've seen a few patched up with other stuff!
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Tombraiders - you either love em or hate em
I hate them,
That "Thing" above looks like a 'Blue Peter bling n Tat' project that has gone horribly wrong
....As do most of the recent LR Specials, the most recent thing is truly vile, but I am sure will sell to the
chelsea blondes and school run bimbos (Can you tell yet I really don't like them
? )I guess the question is other than "why" you want a TR is WHAT do you want your new LR for and to do with it ?
Nige
Yes, Whats with the plumbers tube carrier on the roof? Is that supposed to look good or does it serve a purpose?
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well ive fitted new pushrods and a new belt and tried firing it up but still no joy. I can't work out which way the cam sprocket is supposed to be round, I've tried removing the belt and turning the cam by 360 and trying again but it wouldn't start either way. is there a way to find out which way the cam is supposed to be?? It's locked at TDC on the no1 cylinder so I guess that if I look at the valves and see which are compressed I could tell if it's right but I don't know which valves should be down and which shouldnt? if anyone could tell me it'd be great! I've had the belt on and off too many times to remember now
Moving the cam around 360 degrees just puts it back in exactly the same posistion as before (doesn't it?). The crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam so if the crank is at TDC & the cam is pointing to the timing marks is it the pump timing?
Have you checked the valve clearances? If they aren't set the valves might not be closing so you won't be getting propper cylinder pressures to ignite the fuel. Does it sound normal when turning over?
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Thanks Tony - some useful links there but I can't see anything which directly relates to ebay.
Is an ebay sale really legally binding - I stated it was in the auction but I can't find anything definitive
I don't think you can take them to court for failing to complete a transaction, well thats the conclusion I came to when I got messed around by a buyer.
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Todd,
Your ECU was under the left hand seat?
Mine has also been sitting "unused" for about 18 months but I need to do something with it so may "jump" the seat controls and see what I can find below ...
Cheers gents!
The connector to the motors under the seat has 8 pins, (2 rows of 4). I've wired different switches into this connector in the past as a temporary fix. Getting the mirrors to work again might be a bit trickier without the ECU as the wiring is all intergrated into the main loom & would take a bit of working out.
, yes its 240v and its err a Mig 
..thanks for any help...wayne.
, do you have any pics/ specs of your setup? Did you use a Rover or Disco as the donor truck?
? )
Moving a running but MOT failed Defender
in International Forum
Posted
They are making it difficult for traders to TAX vehicles now.
The vehicle needs to be in your own name, which is understandable really as it proves that the new owner has insurance cover.
It would be unreasonable for the Police / DVLA to fine the owner for moving a vehicle without tax if it has just been purchased. But I wouldn't be surprised if its happened to people before!