hardyspicer
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Posts posted by hardyspicer
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Sill Removal 110 Station Wagon
I was puzzling over removing the sill on my station wagon and couldn`t find any step by step guide.
It is fixed at the bulkhead end by a stud plate (MRC 5765), which got mangled, and M8 nut. The big nut below is the bulkhead to outrigger fixing.
There is a flange from the C pillar which fixes on to the rear seatbox (M6 x 16) This fixes into the underseat floor support and the rear of the two also goes through a stiffener.
The rear of the sill is fixed to the removable cross member by a bracket. It is easier to remove the sill with the bracket removed from the sill rather than from the cross member. There are two big washers between the sill and the bracket.
There is a large bracket which fixes the top of the C pillar to the rear tub. I left the bracket attached to the C pillar.
There are rivets to remove. I used a 4.5mm bit. The triangular side panel isn`t holding the sill in place but to inspect the C pillar it needs to come off. There are a couple of large spacers on the bottom two holes.
There are another 5 rivets which fix the C pillar to the tub. The photo ouitside misses off the top one but you can see it on the inside one on the pillar and after removal.
The top of the C pillar looks like it should come off but mine was stuck fast and I thought I would leave well alone. The two holes in the middle of the last picture are for holding a captive nut plate for the door striker. It sits in a cradle. Be careful removing it as I dropped it down the C pillar (this was not why I was taking them off).
John
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This was the person I spoke with a couple of years ago
Ian Duvall
Commercial Manager
Magal AWT Limited
Headley Road East
Woodley
Reading
RG5 4SN
UNITED KINGDOM
tel. 0118 9215 302
mob. 078 1388 7274
web site : www.magal.co.uk
John
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I got a steering box from them a couple years ago. They sent me one for a left hand drive vehicle. However, very apologetic and very quick to get the correct one sent out . I would use them again.
John
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Britcar sell Lemforder for £17.98 +VAT. Part RHF500110G. OEM. I bought one recently.
John
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Well, new hose fitted, checked push rod sitting in place, rebled clutch and fiddled with adjustment but still slipping. I`m going to put the old master cylinder back on and see what happens. Could be coincidence that clutch has started to slip.
John
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Yes, same slave cylinder, OEM. Got the bits from Gemm 4x4.
Started on changing the hose but will need to wait until tomorrow to finish it.
Thanks again
John
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Thanks for your responses gents.
There was no fluid gush and the slave cylinder was pushed off but not markedly and it was fairly easy to push back on.
Strangely, I have a new rubber pipe that I never put on the old machine. I`ll give it a go after I`ve warmed up with a brew. It`s freezing up here today, even had to get the woolly hat out. Mind you,the first time I took the wife hillwalking was on an August Bank Holiday week-end and it snowed and that was in the North Pennines.
John
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I have changed the salve and master on the clutch of my 110 tdi SW. The master cylinder was leaking. Despite adjusting the master cylinder rod and bleeding the system I now have a slipping clutch. Would putting in new parts bring a worn clutch to attention? Could the new master cylinder be faulty? Am I clutching at straws (sorry) because I don`t want to take the engine out?
Any views would be much appreciated.
Thanks
John
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This is a useful spot
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Brightwells at http://www.brightwells.com/Vehicles/4x4/. There is a link to past results. The catalogue appears a few days before the auction which is on Tuesday.
John
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After finally deciding to buy a new driver`s side body capping from land rover I went to fit it only to find that the inside skirt is 1/2 cm shorter than the old one. The new capping`s holes would line up with the ones on the tub if it was that little bit longer so drilling a hole in the tub to line up with the capping holes is not an option as a new hole would overlap with the existing one.
I don`t think I want to be altering a £170 part
Presumably shaving that 1/2 cm off the capping saves landrover a few pounds.
John
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I did this job a few months ago on my 110 and the bolts were M10.
John
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Well,I disconnected the relay and fiddled with the wiring and managed to start the engine for the first time in 8 months. Rebuilding is taking a long time.
John
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I`m having a bit of trouble with my ignition wiring after removing an aftermarket alarm. There is a small Lucas (520) relay which has wiring from the ignition and the alarm and I am not sure if this is a starter relay with the alarm wired into it or only there as part of the alarm. In anycase it is making the ignition wiring (5 pin) difficult as the wiring colours don`t seem to match with Haynes.
Any views on the subject much appreciated.
Regards
John
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Disco-Ron
Thanks so much. Did a test in the shed and success. Thought it best not to try on the chassis in the dark. I once had a nasty experience supergluing my hand to the windscreen in similar circumstances.
John
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I have part NRC5415, plastic clip for holding the fuel lines to the chassis. It seems to be all one piece when I was expecting a part like the brake line clips where the clip is pushed into a plastic insert in the chassis. I`ve looked at pictures on various parts` suppliers and they look like the clip I have. I can`t see how the clip will stay in a hole drilled in the chassis. If anyone has any advice I would be grateful.
John
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Gwyn Lewis also sells galvanised spring seats, rear spring retainers and turret rings. I`m pleased with my purchase of them.
John
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Thanks for the quick replies. I am enlightened.
John
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I have just got a new chassis for my defender 300tdi and it has brackets on the underside between the front outrigger and the front spring seat. My old chassis didn`t have these. I was wondering what they are for. Everything else is the same as the old one.
I wondered if they were for some underbody protection but would be happy to be elightened.
John
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I have had excellent service from the parts department at Morrison`s Garage in Stirling. I have a 1994 110.
I don`t think it is fair to condemn all dealers. There are pains in the neck in every job but there are also a lot of decent helpful people around. You have had bad service though and I think you are right to complain and let others know.
John
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I`ve been stripping my 110 down for a new chassis. I have used shock and unlock from Halfords which works well and spray cans of 3 in 1 penetrating oil. The oil works well when given time. Nut splitters and drill have also been useful.
John
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Gruntus
Thanks for that search tip. I`ve had difficulty using the search with two words in the query.
John
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Thanks for that. I`ve disconnected the wiring and removed the boxes, putting in some connectors for rejoining it all. That is assuming my labels don`t fall off.
Suspension bushes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I fitted genuine bushes on my 300tdi. Got them off Duckworth Land Rover at a reasonable price. (no affiliation)
John