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stephensmith

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by stephensmith

  1. Used same method. Made guiding blocks and trimmed outer edge of lower (horizontal limb) of seal. Still haven't trimmed off ends because unsure of whether they will contract. The ones I took out were 'too short'. Oiled crank, greased cap, seals and guides and wriggled, shoved and tapped the cap in (with plastic hammer). 

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  2. 200TDI Defender 93. Had engine out to remove ladder bolts. Vertical rubber t-seal legs were shortened on rear main bearing cap so decided to take the cap off and replace (with rubber-Reinz lwr engine gaskets). Made pair of 70 degree angled blocks to bolt on either side of cap recess to guide seals in. Trimmed off the 90 degree edge on the outer side of the t-seal horizontal legs (V. small amount with scalpel). Greased ends of caps and rubber seals and slope of steel guides and oiled crank journal. Then wriggled, shoved and finally, tapped cap in with a rubber hammer. Checked for correct orientation and screwed in the old bolts. Left at present because unsure whether, like the fibre ones), you should allow them to shrink back a little before cutting off the protruding rubber ends. Will trim later and replace bolts with new and torque up. I chose 70 degrees for the guides because I had no information.  

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  3. Does anyone have an exploded diagram showing the components of the VE4/11F 1900R347-1 injection pump for the (1993) 200tdi? I'd just like to check the position and number of O-rings on the screw that locks the pump spindle. I've ordered a kit for the upgraded oval plate from Wade Diesels, Hoddesdon ( info from REB) but it looks for all the world as though the fuel is dripping from this lock screw. Just moving on to whether a couple of copper washers will at least confirm this. My locking screw came out with one green O-ring but.....maybe there are more in there! Thanks.

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