ClassicRangieLeigh
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Posts posted by ClassicRangieLeigh
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Hi all,
In the last 5 years that I've had my RRC I've repaired a fuel leak 7 times. After the 4th time I got annoyed and sent it to a garage, feeling as if it was being beaten by a bit of silly pipe.
The leak comes from the rubber pipe on the engine side of the filter. The pipe got cut back further and further until it couldn't be reconnected.
So the last time I did it (4 months ago) I joined a piece of copper pipe with a bulge in it to the rubber pipe before the fuel filter, and ran it all the way to the engine bay. I then placed the filter in the engine bay.
Ultimately I'd like to change the complete pipe to Aero fittings, but the thread at the fuel pump end I a silly M12 metric fine (I think that's right)
What can I do from here on.
Cheers, Leigh.
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How do?
Right, managed to find time to have a go at this over the weekend. Removed the little brown and yellow wire from the alternator and the light went out, which means everything is pointing at the alternator being at fault. It was only reconditioned last year as well!!!
I'll take it back and see what comes of it.
Thanks for your help so far folks.
Cheers, Leigh.
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This sounds a good way to diagnose it, I'll have a go tomorrow (Sunday).Can you disconnect the wire for the warning light from the back of the alternator to isolate a wiring fault? Switch the ignition on (no need to start the engine)- warning light should be off (if on then suspect a short somewhere in the loom). Earth the warning light cable at the alternator end and the warning light should come on. If you can control the warning light this way then the fault is in the alternator.
Cheers DaveSIIA
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The alternator was reconditioned about 8 months ago, so I'm thinking it's something else. Like I say, it's making 14.2 volts at the battery. Also, after a half an hour drive the alternator is still only warm, not hot, so there's no big friction issues from bearings etc.
The light goes out when the ignition is turned off. I've read the wiring diagram, and I've got it down it the battery light wire rubbing on an earth somewhere, however, I've not tested this yet.
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I presume you mean on the front??
I had this not too long ago, I had stripped down the hub assembly to change a wheel bearing and when it came to putting it back together the circlip wouldn't go on the drive shaft. I ended up prising the drive shaft out by screwing a UNF bolt, (same as the prop bolts) with a big washer and a screw driver and trying to get the circlip on.
The only thing I can think that has an effect on this is if the wheel bearing outer races are not seated all the way in, or if the new wheel bearing is slightly bigger.
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I presume you mean on the front??
I had this not too long ago, I had stripped down the hub assembly to change a wheel bearing and when it came to putting it back together the circlip wouldn't go on the drive shaft. I ended up prising the drive shaft out by screwing a UNF bolt, (same as the prop bolts) with a big washer and a screw driver and trying to get the circlip on.
The only thing I can think that has an effect on this is if the wheel bearing outer races are not seated all the way in, or if the new wheel bearing is slightly bigger.
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Hi all,
Just recently I've had a random bout of electrical faults. This week alone, a hundred yards from work and in the pouring rain the sunroof opened all by itself, completely wide open. So armed with a screwdriver I wound it back shut manually and unplugged it.
Then, yesterday the battery light was on at first start up and the engine was running like a sack of carp. So obviously the first thing I though was the alternator. However, after limping it home and getting the multimeter on it there was 14.2 Volts there. All the wires are on the alternator fine, and I haven't had chance to dig out the wiring diagrams to chase it round yet.
To be fair, my old Classic has been stood for about 2 weeks and has got damp inside, but still, there's no need for this bad behaviour!!!
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Well Leigh,
I have been doing a lot of research this last few months trying to solve the same problem. I owned my RRC now for about 7 years or so & done a fair few repairs only to see the same thing happen, the rust comes back. When I first got it I tried hammerite thinking it as miracle paint, well it isn't as you & I have found out. I then tried jenolite on any rust I couldn't cut or grind out followed by red oxide & then a brush on enamel & on sills & wheel arches etc then coated with underseal. Some areas seem ok but I can still see areas of corrosion coming back even less than 12 months later.
So it got me thinking what about those people that restore classic cars & spent thousands on them? Surely they don't spent a small fortune only to be met with rust & another full body restore in just a couple of years. I then stumbled on epoxy mastic primers & this is what seems to be the winning product for car restorers. It's a 2pk primer that apparently bonds to the steel at a molecular level filling in the pores of the steel surface so no rust pockets can form again & it's super hard & flexible. http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28117/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/
There is also this stuff called jotun jotamastic that is cheaper but the same if you want bigger quantities. I believe the epoxy mastic 121 is based on the same marine paint as the jotamastic. https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/primers/two-pack/Jotamastic_range
They are both 2pk brush on epoxy primers that is used on boats, oil rugs etc.
Only thing is they are not UV stable meaning they go off colour & chalky looking if subjected to the sun so need a top coat. Read more about it here. https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/epoxy
I'm just modifying some tree sliders & have just bought some epoxy mastic 121 for its anti corrosion & toughness, I plan to use some hammerite smooth black for the top coat as its quite tough & should work ok as a top coat but that's about all I will ever use hammerite for again. Any more repairs in the future I will be using an epoxy mastic primer, it's supposed to so tough that it doesn't even need a top coat if not subjected to UV light & if it's needs a top coat like the tree sliders I'll just use some hammerite. People restoring cars are doing the whole bare shells in this stuff & using custom epoxy 421 on the body panels. http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/32736/custom-421-epoxy-body-primer/
As a rust converter I have just bought this stuff. http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28125/fe-123-rust-converter/
Hope this helps.
Very helpful reply, I'll investigate these websites. We've got to keep these Classics, and all Land Rovers alive!!
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Hi all,
I've owned my Range Rover Classic about 5 years now, and in that time I've done a lot to stop the dreaded rust bug from taking its life.
I've had the axles off, along with all radius arms, steering bars, anti-roll bars etc and put them through an industrial shot blaster. I've had two new sills and rear wheel arches, and have painted the chassis numerous times.
The trouble is, it seems that no paint is hard enough to withstand the the wet road salt and gatherings of mud.
My Classic is mainly a road only vehicle, do its not like I'm abusing it.
The products I have been using are:
First: Hammerite rust killer. (in the tiny bottle)
Second: Hammerite No More Rust (in a beige colour that shows up if chipped off)
Final Coat: A thick layer of Hammerite Gloss Black put on with a paint brush and left thick.
Guess what, the rust has come back.
What do you guys use to stop the brown crumbs showing.
What is the best paint, or anti-corrosion sealant.
Cheers, Leigh
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Bowie,
The second website that you show here has the 5 ltr Lichfield on it.
From memory, I'm sure the one I saw looked almost exactly like that, with the chrome bumpers and 5 spoke wheels, but with the slight bulge in the bonnet.
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The only Range Rover I can find a picture of is the P38 called a Cameron Concept SSE with a bonnet bulge.
http://www.landrover-center.com/sites/default/files/news_440.jpg.crop_display.jpg
I am sure I've seen a classic with one though, and I'm sure it was a supercharged 5.0 V8 Lichfield model.
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Christ there is some strange conversions there!!!
People have put a lot of time and effort into some of those as well. They look ridiculous now, but I bet they were top class in their day.
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Hi all,
I am trying to find some information and a picture of a rare Classic that had a bulge in the bonnet.
I am not entirely sure which model it was, but have a feeling it was either a Lichfield or an Overfinch model.
Apparently the bulge was to accommodate a supercharger.
Cheers, Leigh.
Turning over RV8 that has been resting (auto)
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Yep, there's a big bolt in the end of the crankshaft. When I roll my engine over manually I use a 15/16" socket, a small extension, and a long breaker bar from underneath the vehicle, turning it clockwise.