beaker
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Posts posted by beaker
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Thanks for the replies guys. Looks like this might be worth a try then.
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On my 1987 90TD I've got a leak from the rear end of my exhaust manifold which is making a bit of a racket. When I traced the blow I noticed that one of the bolts right next to the leak has sheared at some time in a past life. Now obviously to do a proper fix on this I need to remove the head and get the sheared bolt sorted, but does anyone know of anything that I could seal it up with in the meantime? I've tried gun gum paste but that just falls out once it goes hard. I was wondering if there was anything similar such as magic metal that might do the trick. Any ideas?
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Make sure you have the end bushes and washers round the right way as I also had the same problem when fitting new 'standard' front shocks to my 90.
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OK, thanks.
Could you possibly post back on here when it arrives as I might nip over to Paddocks and buy one. Wouldnt mind knowing how you get on with it, whether all the hinge holes line up etc
Cheers
Sorry, forgot to reply to this
Yes I will let you know once I get it. Ordered it on 2nd August and still haven't got it!!!!! Just phoned them and they say they are still waiting for them from the factory! 
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OOPS,
your correct, I should have 
at page 773, item 9 before posting.
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you can't loosen them with the bonnet closed, the bolt heas are on the top face of the slam/catch panel
Well thats odd because i've just checked mine and they definately go in from the bottom upwards, into captive nuts in to a bonnet pin locating plate on top of the slam panel. Maybe it's non original then.
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It might also help if you remove the grille, and loosen the two bolts that hold the catch (they also go throught the two diagonal stays). Worked for me when my bonnet release cable snapped.
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beaker, where did you get your new rear door from please, as I need to order one soon.
And is it any good?
Cheers.
I've ordered it from Paddock Spares. £99 + vat minus the glass. Haven't got it yet though.
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Sounds like 'tractor paint' might be just the stuff. Living in rural Aberdeenshire i'm surrounded by agricultural suppliers so I'll definately give them a look before I go the Hammerite route.
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Hi.
I've ordered a new rear door for my 90 which I intend to paint myself. As I'm really not to worried about the finish I'm planning on hand painting it with smooth blue hammerite (it's been repainted in the past and I don't know what the colour is) What I was wondering was should the hammerite be ok to paint straight on to the factory primer or do you think I need to prime it first and if so, what type of primer should I use.
Thanks
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Thanks guys. Bits ordered, including new jack and stands, so hopefully get it done this week.
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Hi all.
I need to replace the front shock absorbers on my 1987 90. It all looks straight forward enough but I just wanted to check to see if there's anything in particular I should be aware of. Any other parts I should change while I'm in there? I did a thread search on this but couldn't find one.
Cheers.
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as it is rough as hell when first started on cold days
Glad I'm not the only one then.
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Thats great. Thanks Western. Will give it a go over the weekend.
I love this place!
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Thanks. How do I test them? I thought there was a thread on here about testing glowplugs but I haven't had any luck finding it.
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Hi guys.
I'm having a small problem with my 1987 90TD which I hope someone can help me with.
Over the last few weeks it seems to be taking longer to get going in the morning (maybe it's just old age like me!) I keep the ignition turned for the normal 20-30 secounds but it seems a bit laboured turning over and when it does eventually go I get a lot of smoke from the exhaust, almost as if it's running too rich. The smoke clears quite quickly and all is normal from then on.I initially put it down to the extreme cold that we've been having up here in Aberdeenshire but it's warmed up a bit now and it seems no better. It will always start but seems to take longer to get going. Could it be the glowplugs are on thier way out? What do you reckon?
Thanks
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Thanks for all the replies. It's just that living in Aberdeenshire we seem to have an awful lot of the 'white stuff' at the moment and driving around on compacted snow and ice I've had the diff lock in just to give me that extra bit of security. It means that I can troll around at 40 mph without to much slipping and sliding. I was just a bit concerned that I might be doing some damage somewhere but it seems not. One thing in Westerns post about easing of the power when engaing and disengaing, I was always under the impressiong that you had to stop first?
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If I'm driving in high ratio with the diff lock on, is there a maximum speed I should be doing so as not to damage the diff? Bit of a strange question maybe but I'm just curious.
Thanks.
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I had to replace my light switch earlier this year when the wiring from the switch burnt out! Although it would have been a little less dramatic if the previous owner hadn't fitted a 50 amp fuse to the light circuit!!! As GBMUD says, the switch is cheaper from Paddocks.
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Ok, thanks for that. Sounds like it won't be going anywhere for the next few days then till the new regulator arrives. As you say, it's just not worth the risk.
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Hi
My alternator light has been coming on now and then, quite dimly and having read all the wonderful advice on here I decided to check the alternator regulator brush pack. When I removed it I found that one of the brushes was quite worn and the other one had cracked and fell off as I removed it. I've refitted it while I wait for a new one to arrive but what I wanted to know was, is it ok to drive a short distance? and what, if any, damage would occur?. It's just that I need to use it to go to work one day this week and i'm totally stuffed without it. I also noticed that the light doesn't come on at all now that i've refitted it, even just on the ignition.
Thanks.
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All sorted. Rewired and a new switch and it seems to be working fine. You were right errol, I checked the two sidelight fuses and one was 15amp and the other was a 50 amp!!!! Scarey!
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As I have previously been corrected about on this forum <cough> the sidelights are (read "should be") on 2.5A fuses, one for each side. There is no way on this good earth that a fuse this small would stand enough current to cook the wire.
So, I'd also check that some previous owner hasn't reacted to a historic intermittent short by putting bigger fuses in!
While you're checking the sidelights, also do the trailer wiring and any bullet connectors you can get to. The sidelight circuits are on red/black (left) and red/orange wires (right).
Good point. I will check them out. I noticed that the wiring thats burnt around the fusebox is only damaged on one side of the sidelight fuses, the right hand side as you look at it, which I think is the power side as opposed to the load (lights) side. I've ordered a new switch anyway as the wiring from that was quite knackered.
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Water alone would not allow enough current to pass to burn a wire till it smokes unless it's been tracking for some time, sounds like a short somewhere.
Were the sidelights on when the smoke started, if not then its only the wiring from the fuse to the switch thats suspect, if it's burnt up to the switch then maybe the faults in there?
If the lights were on when the fault ocurred it might be worth looking at the individual sidelights to see if there is any signs of burning on the feed wire at the back of each lamp unit.
Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram for that vintage but it's pretty simple from what I remember of the 1989 90 that I had a while ago.
To be honest I can't remember if the lights were on or not. I had them on just previous as we were in the middle of some pretty heavy rain so there is a good chance that they were still on. What with the panic of seeing all the smoke I may well have turned them off when I switched the ignition off. Will check the individual lamps anyway I think.
Yes I will let you know once I get it. Ordered it on 2nd August and still haven't got it!!!!! Just phoned them and they say they are still waiting for them from the factory! 
your correct, I should have 
Injector pump leak.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi guys. Hope someone can help me. I've got a fuel leak from the bleed valve area on the top of the injector pump on my 87 td. When i checked it i found that the nut that the bleed screw screws into is turning and it won't tighten. Could this mean that the thread has gone? Not sure if it screws directly into the pump body or is there another nut inside the pump? Can i remove the top half of the pump to get at it? Lots of questions i know but having just this morning paid out £750 to get it through the mot, i'm a worried man.
Thanks guys.