LRDISCOVERY
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Posts posted by LRDISCOVERY
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1. Remove fan cowl upper.
2. Release drive belt tension by turning tensioner
clockwise.
3. With tension released, remove belt from
generator pulley.
4. Release tensioner pulley.
5. Remove drive belt. Mark direction of rotation on
belt if refitting
Refit
6. Clean drive belt pulley grooves and ensure
grooves are not damaged.
7. Position belt correctly around all pulleys except
generator..
8. Turn drive belt tensioner clockwise.
9. Locate drive belt on generator pulley.
10. Ensure drive belt is squarely located on pulleys
with all grooves engaged.
11. Release tensioner to tension drive belt.
12. Fit upper fan cowl section.
DRIVE BELT - CHECK TENSION
As the drive belt is automatically tensioned, no tension
check or adjustment should be necessary. If the drive
belt is believed to be slack carry out the following
checks:
1. Visually check drive belt tension.
2. Watch movement of tensioner with engine
running, 5 mm ’bounce’ is normal. If tensioner
movement is 12 mm or more, fit a new tensioner.
See Drive Belt Tensioner
3. Inspect tensioner. Is the tensioner arm and
spring case in contact? If so fit a new tensioner.
4. Using a recognised drive belt tensioning gauge,
check belt tension several times, running engine
between checks. The checks should be made at
the same point on the belt, away from the
tensioner.
Drive belt tension, with used tensioner and used drive
belt should be more than:-
270N. Non air conditioning or
295N with air conditioning
hope this helps.
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Anyone know where i can get the plugs for the rear bumper lights?, have just bought new lights but the plugs on the harness are knackered.
Also is the rear part of the wiring loom seperate from the main loom?
hi I am sure the bulb holders are the same in indicators so just try a scrapyard and cut the connector off they are usually in good condition hope that helps.
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4TH engages around 50mph with light throttle lockup of torque convertor is almost simutaneous kickdown would allow higher speeds before change.
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if i accelerate slowly in D, when it changes into 4th at rougly 30mph the engine revs seem to drop and the gearbox judders. it doesn't happen if i accelerate quickly so that it changes at a higher speed. any ideas? it's a ZF4HP22
are you sure it is changing into 4th it shouldn't get into 4th until 50mph?
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Hi
Has anyone had a go at tinting their D2's windows?? If so any advice would be great!
cheers
I had mine done professionally only to get stopped by police because drivers & front passengers windows were to dark and did not pass light test I was given an enforcement notice banning me from using the vehicle until tint was removed fortunately i wasn't given a fixed penalty but i could have been so whatever tint you apply make sure its legal because it is easy for police to spot.I was lead to believe my tint was legal by tinting firm.
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I'm hoping some one on here is extra-specially fanatastically nice, and happens to have a 300tdi heater matrix to hand, which they can give me a couple of oval dimesnions for.
One that looks like this :
My series can no longer fit its original heater due to its new gearbox and i really could do with cobling up an alternative in this weather.
Thanks in advance, i owe you one!
Chris
Hi why not email seller and ask him dimensions any heater matrix that's "fitted" would be quite awkward to measure but this is already removed.
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Right have been out this morning for a measure up and it appears to fit width ways on both the wings and the brackets but the bow in the 300TDI bumper makes it slope out at the top about 30 degrees(not a good look)so it looks like im going to have to get some brackets or something made up unless anyone has any other ideas.The plastic spoiler has already been trimmed and is off at the moment so i could see that it wasnt that.
mine went straight on once I removed lower valance the mounting holes in brackets are elongated and allowed for a little movement I also had to remove the number plate "box and the steel fittings behind it they look like little boxes welded on the bumper but my bullbar has a place for fitting number plate so this wasn't a problem.
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Hi I think it will go on OK but you might have to make a couple of cuts in the lower spoiler best way is to remove the lower section and cut down so when you refit the bolts hold it in place where its been cut. I have done this and it fits fine .
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If you have a Series 2 Disco (99-05 ish TD5 Shape) they will. If you don't you need adapters as the wheel stud pattern is different.
Cheers thanks
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Genuine 8Jx16x57- NTC6980. Will only fit Discovery series2 & Range Rover 4.0/4.6
B)
Cheers thanks for quick reply so will they go straight on without the need for spacers?
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hi well I've spotted these " LAND ROVER 8JX16 ALLOY WHEELS DISCOVERY RANGE ROVER 8" Item number: 220320875886 " on ebay there local to me but would they go straight on a discovery or would I need spacers as they are wider than the standard 7j that are currently fitted .have sent ??? but no reply as yet.
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Hi,
I've got a 200tdi Disco and a SIII 88" stn wagon which i was going to sell / break but am thinking that maybe they'd make a good hybrid ?
The other option would be to make a 100" Defender ala Mark Evans.
Realistically how difficult would it be to do either as i won't have the facilities of a full wk shop with lift etc, experts helping or a whole bunch of freebies for advertising ??
I've also got a SIII Lt Wt which i may sell as its a good one but would make the best conversion with the disco running gear.
Any tips or advice would be most welcome ?
Thank's,
Mark
hi before you start you might want to check out the regs on rebuilding MOT'S are starting to check chassis numbers actually stamped on chassis and not just relying on VIN plates.the following is what D.V.L.A state.
Vehicles that have been rebuilt using a mix of new or used parts
In order to retain the original registration mark:
cars and car-derived vans must use:
The original unmodified chassis or unaltered bodyshell (i.e. body and chassis as one unit - monocoque); or a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer or manufacturer (e.g. receipt).
And two other major components from the original vehicle - ie suspension (front & back); steering assembly; axles (both); transmission or engine.
If a second-hand chassis or monocoque bodyshell is used, the vehicle must pass a an enhanced single vehicle approval (ESVA) or single vehicle approval (SVA) test after which a "Q" prefix registration number will be allocated.
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So I was changing the water&anti-freeze. I suppose I was doing everything correct according to the book. But now I have air in the upper pipes which go to heater. When the engine is hot they look like pretty and nice sausages because of the inner air pressure. And one of that had cracked already.
I think it's the upper point of coolant system, and I do not know how the air is going to get out of there. Is there any standard procedure that I should take to get rid of air? One told me that on some cars there is some kind of "valve" or "tap" for easing out the air from the upper point.
Hi remove the plug on top of thermostat housing and top the water up through there this should get rid of any air in system.It; a black pastic plug use a socket to remove it and do not over tighten when refitting as it will snap.
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check this out on ebay maybe just the thing
Wireless MMS Mobile (AV) monitor GSM Alarm System CCTV
Send to UK only! Retail price: GBP215!Freeshipping Item number: 120329524871
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hi you can get a 096R battery which has terminals reversed and should drop straight in do a google for best price silver varta have best C.C.A at 750 .
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A BIG THANKS TO EVERYBODY WHO HAS REPLIED I HAVE CONTACTED MY CREDIT CARD COMPANY AND HAVE ASKED THEM TO DO A CHARGEBACK AS NO GOODS HAVE BEEN RECEIVED.
THANKS AGAIN.
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They seemed to be OK when they had their shop in Leek. I used to go past quite often, but now they have shut down I don't know where they operate from. I was told they had gone bust but I presume they must be trading from somewhere as they are still selling via the website
well at least they must have been genuine at one time so maybe I might get some joy after all thanks for reply.
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sit back and wait for the S**tstorm.....
HOW DO YOU MEAN HAS THIS BEEN DONE BEFORE??
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Hi I have placed an order with www.bronco4x4.com a week ago and cannot get any joy with replies to emails or telephone I even left messages on answerphone but got nothing back.Now I have read a report on a website called ripoff and someone on there has gave them a bad report saying that they were ripped off but has anybody dealt with them and been satisfied with goods/service.
THANKS.
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I'm pretty sure it doesn't, they stay on until the relay clicks, or unitl you press the throttle.
Also on the EDC models the ECU won't allow you to decide how much fuel to put in, so it ignores the throttle position sensor until it's started so it won't do you any good any way
yes I am wrong about glow plugs they do stay on for a set period even after engine has started but the accelerator does put more fuel in to enable cold starting which is the recomended way in cold weather.
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OK well if you don't believe me here is the relevant passage from the Defender Tdi owners manual:
"Before starting the engine and driving,
ENSURE you are familiar with the precautions
shown under ’Catalytic converter’ later in this
section.
In particular, you should be aware that
continued use of the starter will result in
unused fuel damaging the catalytic converter.
1. Check that the handbrake is applied and
that the gear lever is in neutral.
2. Switch off all unnecessary electrical
equipment.
3. Insert the starter key and turn the switch
to position ’II’. Wait until the glow plug
warning light extinguishes.
NOTE: When restarting a warm engine, it will
not be necessary to wait for the glow plug
warning light to extinguish.
4. Turn the key to position ’III’ to operate the
starter motor; DO NOT press the
accelerator pedal during starting, and
RELEASE THE KEY as soon as the engine
is running."
I think the last paragraph confirms my comments as I would have thought the people who built it ought to know what they are talking about. It should not be necessary on a properly functioning engine and if it is, then something is not right!
well READ ON TO PART 3 AND YOU WILL SEE IT STATES IN COLD CLIMATES OR WHERE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE HAS DROPPED FULLY DEPRESS ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE OPERATING STARTER THIS WILL AID STARTING THEN RELEASE ACCELERATOR WHEN ENGINE STARTS .
ALL OF YOU WHO AGREED WITH BOGMASTER SHOULD FOLLOW THIS LINK AND LEARN SOMETHING.
http://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/extfree...76259/index.htm
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OK well if you don't believe me here is the relevant passage from the Defender Tdi owners manual:
"Before starting the engine and driving,
ENSURE you are familiar with the precautions
shown under ’Catalytic converter’ later in this
section.
In particular, you should be aware that
continued use of the starter will result in
unused fuel damaging the catalytic converter.
1. Check that the handbrake is applied and
that the gear lever is in neutral.
2. Switch off all unnecessary electrical
equipment.
3. Insert the starter key and turn the switch
to position ’II’. Wait until the glow plug
warning light extinguishes.
NOTE: When restarting a warm engine, it will
not be necessary to wait for the glow plug
warning light to extinguish.
4. Turn the key to position ’III’ to operate the
starter motor; DO NOT press the
accelerator pedal during starting, and
RELEASE THE KEY as soon as the engine
is running."
I think the last paragraph confirms my comments as I would have thought the people who built it ought to know what they are talking about. It should not be necessary on a properly functioning engine and if it is, then something is not right!
well if thats what it says obviously all these electronic "improvements" just lead to more things going wrong its a good job its not in the middle of the sahara or some remote jungle where needing it to start is important and you can't call the AA.
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Yeah it tells me there is a problem with the vehicle and it is not performing normally. Not that this is the "correct" way to start
I have started probably the best part of 1000 different Land Rover engines in the course of my 10 years at work...
well if it starts by using the throttle and it doesn't when you don't..........what can I say.....????????
I know what I would do and i'd be moving........
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Yeah .. but we are talking about a direct injection engine.
Indirect injection engines should be started as you describe, however direct injection engines and common rail engines should be started just like a petrol .. Turn key and hope.
it doesn't matter if its direct or indirect they will ALWAYS start better from cold with full throttle. just try it for yourself or ask any trucker as all HGVS are direct injection and if you listen to anyone starting a truck in the morning youll hear that this is how they start them.but if you just want to turn the key and hope for the best then good luck.
fan belt
in Discovery Forum
Posted
hi if you are in uk you can do a history check with DVLA online it will tell you results of all mots back to 2005 including failures and why also what the milage readings were at the time of testing.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/Mot/DG_10020539