[Door won't open]

Hi Boffins

I recently replaced door spring in N/S front door, now while the door unlocks, it will not open when either the inner or outer handle is pulled. I have had it all out again ( yawn) could see nothing out of place but it worked OK for a week now it has started playing up again. Some christmas present any one having any clues as to what I've missed please let know. In any case everyone have a great Christmas Cheers

Dave

[What to do with a rusty Disco]

Hi Gentlemen

Thank you for your thoughts which have given me things to mull over. My real annoyance is that once I weld this lot up it will be necessary to do all again. Anyway thanks again

Dave

[water leak]

Yes you have to look hard it is very slight.

As to your clutch I had the same thing no leaks and clutch going further down until I lost it completely if yours is the same as 300Tdi you may find that the clutch lever fulcum post has bored a hole through lever,wonderful,added to which the new lever is the same as the` old one and mine is 12 years old no mod. Hope it isn't good luck

Dave

[water leak]

I had a similar leak which seemed to be the gasket but further examonation it turned out to be a hair line crack in the plastic filler nut on top of the casting, it took me weeks to pin point it. I must have been over enthusiast tightening it up after bleeding the air out.

Dave

[What to do with a rusty Disco]

I have a 1996 Disco with rot in all the wrong places and withthe advent of all the electonic wizardry in later vehicles I wondered about the possibility of fitting my engine and gearbox to a recent Disco or Defender if it became necessary due to the problems I have read with the BMW and Transit engines and running gear.

Having been a follower of the forums for some time, although not posted much as there are so many people out there who beat me with the answers, I wondered if any one knows if 300Tdi bits would fit straight in or if not any modifications that would be necessary.

Any thoughts would be appreciated before I rush out a buy a massive problem. I enjoy playing with Landies but I would like in on road most of the time.

Cheers

Dave

[Replacing Range Rover Sill (s)]

Hi Orange

Thank you for your most comprehensive detail and photos of your repair. Looks like a fantastic job.

My Disco has just reached this stage plus a load of rust in the front wheel arches but I regret I am not up to this sort of repair, anything mechanical but body work no way.

I had a quote of £1000 to sort it but as it is only worth £1500 the mechanic suggested I try to buy a later one with major mecnanical work necessay and swap bits over which I thought was a good idea.

The problem with that is finding that type of vehicle. I wonder if any one could point me in th right direction, I think a new good one is out of the question unless my numbers come up.

[Discovery 1 vented disks]

Good afternoon O Knowledgeable ones

This really isnot a new topic but i did not know how to get . I sent a reply this morning but I can't find it.

What I would like to know is, do vented disks just fit straight on to hub (having changed the caliper) or is there some mod that is neccesary to do with the increased width.

Your help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Dave

[Vented front discs]

And don't expect vented discs to stop brake fade completely, especially if you are not going that fast. I faded my 110 brakes to nothing on the pass down from Pigg's Peak in Swaziland to Barberton in South Africa. 5 passengers and a bit of luggage. Luckily the road went straight down with no corners. I was applying the brakes until they went away and then lifting off. The passengers did notice a smell, luckily it wasn't my trousers I couldn't change down as I was in 4th doing 100kph and would have blown the engine in 3rd at that speed.

I went up the same pass later and couldn't get out of second gear. This means that coming down I was in far too high a gear, if using the old adage that you should come down a hill in the same gear you went up. I believe the pass is about 1:4.

Good morning to all

I have been following the discussion on vented disks and as i intend to change mine i wonder if you could tell me, are the disks a straight change over ie it is not neccesary to modify the hub or reposition any thing. Obviously it requires new callpers, other than that straight swap.

Cheers Dave

[Vented front discs]

And don't expect vented discs to stop brake fade completely, especially if you are not going that fast. I faded my 110 brakes to nothing on the pass down from Pigg's Peak in Swaziland to Barberton in South Africa. 5 passengers and a bit of luggage. Luckily the road went straight down with no corners. I was applying the brakes until they went away and then lifting off. The passengers did notice a smell, luckily it wasn't my trousers I couldn't change down as I was in 4th doing 100kph and would have blown the engine in 3rd at that speed.

I went up the same pass later and couldn't get out of second gear. This means that coming down I was in far too high a gear, if using the old adage that you should come down a hill in the same gear you went up. I believe the pass is about 1:4.

I pressed the wrong button here Streamline Oooops

[More starting problems]

Hi Lynall

Thank you for that, I've downloaded it and now to get an ISO reading software. I am learning more and more about computers the more I repair my Discovery.

keeps you out of mischief

Dave

Hi again Lynall

Further to the RAVE saga. I downloaded Alcohol 120% ran Rave through it opening the file I have lots of icons none of which start it but some give error mesages that some addins are missing in Adobe. does not say which one, there are twenty or so.

A Warning. A friend suggested a programme called Magic Disk for ISO files I tried it. It did not work that well so I left it.

Next day my computer would not boot, finally got on to Dell they tried but due them giving me the wrong rescue disk they culd not progress it, they said they would send disks.

In the meantime my fiend suggested I boot in SAFE mode I did and got in. Dell had asked if I have done anything different but I had forgotten Magic Disk. So having got in I unistalled it Bingo computer back to normal.

AVOID Magic Disk

Cheers

[More starting problems]

It will be the passive immobilisation kicking in after a set period. If the plip is on the keyring but it doesn't disarm automatically, there is a fault with the passive coil in the steering column or something related to that. You could either spend money or live with what you are doing i.e. pressing the button before you go.

Hi Bog Monster

You are probably right, if I leave it unlocked for a time when I come back it will only start after it has been locked and unlocked. As you say it works like that but I am a devil for poking about

Cheers dave

[More starting problems]

What age/model/transmission is the disco?

As for the alloys both my back two were letting air out, I had to pump one up once a week, the other was once a month. I just lived with it for a couple of months, then I got a puncture in the one that was lasting a month so I went to the local back street tyre fitters, they charged me £7 to repair the tyre and whilst it was off they cleaned up the bubbles on the inside of the rim which let the air out, I then got them to take the other wheel off and clean that up which they charged me another £7 for. So £14 for a tyre repair and to clean up two alloys.

Hi Sotal

It is a 1996 entry model Disco manual transmission. I did not ask ATS to clean it up as I had this fluid and dying to use it, so far so good. I heard of problems with the steering with it in but as it is the rear it semms OK

cheers Dave

[More starting problems]

For wiring info get the rave cd

Lynall

Hi Lynall

Thank you for that, I've downloaded it and now to get an ISO reading software. I am learning more and more about computers the more I repair my Discovery.

keeps you out of mischief

Dave

[More starting problems]

Hi Boffins

I have removed the spider and put in the jumper kit, now the fuel solenoid is never faulty but i get the car icon in the dash and the starter is immobiised. I I lock the door with the remote and unlock the icon is gone and starter works.

Does any one know the answer or have an alarm/ immobilizer wiring diagram. Haynes has every circuit but the alarm.

On another matter one of my alloy wheels allows air out through the rim, ATS say it can be cleaned up ( at some cost) but I have some solution to go in the wheel claims to seal up to 1/4 holes. So far so good I will se how it goes and let you know

[Rear Door unable to open]

Philip also does them in packets of 3 or 5. It might be more economical to buy a set for your vehicle.

One's gone, how log before the next one?

Thanks First fleet

I did just that , got three and at last it's right. One point I did not know the left and right sides are different have not found out why yet too happy to get it finished.

A real pain trying to source parts that are out of the normal run of spares from LR. Another one for the tech archive Bog Monster ?

Cheers dave

[Rear Door unable to open]

Hi there streamline.Yes it was that spring and i got it off fleebay from a chap called phillipstuart33 @www.disco-compatible-parts.com.Sorry this aint a link but i haven't a clue how to do them.Anyway,good chap to deal with and if i remember rightly it was only about £4.50.Best of luck and tally hoe.

Hi fattyrbuckle

Thanks for that I will get in contact, I have spent 2 days on the web with sping people and for a one off they need £60-£100 for one spring so £4.50 is great.

Didnt think of e-bay

Cheers Dave

[Rear Door unable to open]

if you can open the door by turning and holding the key then pulling the handle then yes it's the dreaded little spring.a bit fiddley but easy enough.good luck

Now there a thing, my rear door spring has just broken and what do I find just the answer on first page. Wonderful. fattyrbuckle, you say it is a bit of a fiddle but my problem is that the spring on mine is the little round one with two legs on it that trips the leverto engage the rod that opens the door.

If that is the one you mean where the hell do you get one, I have tried many spring manufactures. They all say they can make me one £60- £100.

If you can help I would be very grateful

Cheers Dave

[Small water loss 300Tdi]

I did use a stop end to clean upthe thread before I put in the plug, but I dimly recall that some times dissimilar metals may have an adverse effect on one another so I perlaced the plastic one. Thanks any way

replacement plugs can be had in brass from any decent plumbers merchants for about a pound each....

[Small water loss 300Tdi]

Hi Pete and thank you for your welcome.

i did not know it was a weak point just thought I was ham fisted. it's been out three time , twice for the P-gasket you mentioned I actually thought it was that

again. If it goes again Iwill put in the ally one you mention.

I must say that I think the problem with the P-gasket is that the securing bolts for it are not up to the weight of the components on the bracket.

Cheers Dave

Hello and welcome to the forum,

The plastic plug is also a known weak point as (as you found out) they snap easily. You can get brass ones I believe from a rangerover or Simonr at X-eng does an anodised aluminium one and gives a forum discount as well. search for Simonr on here.

The other common leak on the front of the 300TDi is the P-gasket which is behind the waterpump (not the water pump gasket) a search of the tech archive on here will reveal an excellent thread by Les on how to replace it.

Pete.

editted to add link.

P gasket thread

[Small water loss 300Tdi]

For some months I have found I have had to top up header tank, which is unusual.

Last Friday I find a large wet patch under the vehicle and on investigation there was water on the front left hand corner at the bottom of the block and lip of the sump. This I found strange as I had replaced the water pump gasket not long since for the second time. (This being a well known fault)

Nothing for it, get stuck in, on removing the fan I found water laying in the fan cowling and this had not been there on previos occaisions. A liitle more investigation was indicated. Topping it up and running the engine, water appeared from the plastic plug on top of the thermostat housing.

The O ring HOOray. Regettably not. On undoing the plug with a spanner the top of the plug parted company with the bottom and it was obvious that it had been fractured for some time, That will teach me not to over tighten plastic,

Remove T/stat to aviod damage-- ream out plastic with fie tang-- cut through plastic with pad saw in 4 places on plug circumference avoiding cutting into threads-- carefully chip out plastic between cuts-- clean up housing threads( a 15mm compression stop end turned out to be the right thread)

Insert new plug not overtightening it .

Hope some one fins this help ful

[Intermittent starting problem]

I have had the same problem. Checked battery which seemed supect but OK. Found that it would start if I locked and unlocked vehicle with buttons.

To check if the diesel pump solenoid was on I connected a wire to it and earth so that if it did not light it was an immobiliser fault, which turned out to be the case.

As the spider , by general opinion, seemed to be most likely I substituted ti with a jumper( sold by Land Rover) To do this there is an excellent article in the Tech Archive by Bog Monster with pictures. Thank you Bog Monster-- Briliant.

Regrettably whilst this fix has stopped the fuel pump being de energised on start, intermittenly no starter and small icon of car in dash. Bsck to lock and unlock. Back to square one.

On putting the clock back it seems the disturbance has open ciruited the bulb. Does any one know where to get one as it seems to obsolete from my local dealer

Hope this may help

Dave