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Bobs

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Posts posted by Bobs

  1. Hi

    Could anyone tell me where to find a lay-man's guide to the drive train on the freelander 2?

    I understand that there is no VCU, as on the freelander 1 and that as a result the vehicle is in permanent 4wd. I thought that the VCU also overcame the problems caused by the rear wheels not travelling at the same speed as the front ones when cornering ie trye scrubbing and judder. How does the FL2 overcome these problems?

    Is there still a IRD unit on the gear box?

    This is the sort of information I would normally get from the good old Haynes manuals, but to the best of my knowledge one is not available for the FL2.

    If anyone can suggest suitable reading, or offer information I should be most gratefull.

  2. Hi

    I've bought an 08 Freelander 2, but it only came with one Key/Remote.

    I do have a similar remote from a different vehicle but I have been told that once programmed they can't be reprogrammed to a different vehicle.

    Does anyone know if that is correct and, if not, where I can get it done.

    Thanks

  3. I own two T reg freelander 5 doors.

    Both have sunroofs that don't work - the motors run and the glass tries to move but appears to twist and stick.

    Is this a common fault?

    Is it fixable? Could it be done by a sunroof firm rather than Landrover.

    I could live without the sunroofs opening, but they dont seem to sit level when "Closed" and I think this is the cause of water leaking in.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.

  4. Are the sparks beefy?

    A knackered coil can give sparks when the plugs are out, but can't manage it under compression. I would have thought you would get no sparks at all if the sensor was u/s, or at least a spluttering of some sort if the sparks were not timed right - but I'm no wiz!

  5. Can anyone help me identify the source of a BMW 2.5 Diesel engine?

    I was told it came from a Range Rover, but I have my doubts.

    The engine numbers I have located are;

    22508652 256TI

    2245249

    Is there anything else I can look for?

    Thanks in advance

  6. On my Lseries diesel I have aproblem with the engine management.

    When started from stone cold all seems well, but when started from hot/warm the engine races for about five seconds, then dropos to normal idle speed and the engine management light stays on. I can hear a "click" from the front of the engine as the revs drop to normal idle.The engine runs and can be driven butr there is a significant reduction in power. It feels like the turbo is not working, but if I keep the revs up it willget me home. when cold everything is fine and remains so till I switch off and restart.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

  7. A great help - thanks!

    Hi,

    I had the same problem some years ago on my X reg Freelander.

    The 15" 5 spoke wheels you have are for the pre-vented disc hubs. These alloys are called aventure.

    When LR moved over to vented disc (around 2000 MY) and larger brake callipers, they changed the wheel to 6 spoke ... still called aventure.

    The hub on your earlier vehicle is slightly too big for the 6 spoke alloys. as for boring them out ..... I wouldn't !

    The 'drill-outs' around the PCD of the wheel were to denote wheels for vented disc/larger calliper. You will find these drill-outs on 15" / 16" and 17" alloys.

    I hope this helps

  8. Hi

    I've purchased a set of ally wheels for my T reg. Being a bit senile thewy appeared to be exactly the same as mine, but now I realise that they have six spokes instead of five and some small holes(cosmetic) near the centre.

    From looking at pictures they appear to come from a slightly later model(not Freelander 2)

    They will fit but the centre hole is very tight on the hubs, it takes the wheel nuts to pull them fully on and they are bl__dy difficult to get off.

    I am considering using a hole saw or similar just to enlarge the holes slightly, but

    Are these wheels right?

    Thanks in advance

  9. I've just bought an R reg 2.5 deisel with the BMW engine.

    Sadly there is a great hole in the block - behind the starter motor.

    I cant find a Haynes manual for this model - So

    Can the engine easily be removed without the automatic gearbox?

    What is the best way to acquire a suitable replacement

    Someone told me that the omega engine is the same?

    Any advice greatly appreciated

    Thanks

  10. my bro has a v-plate freelander that has the k-series 1.8 petrol engine, the head gasket has gone and its just run out of mot, other than that it is immaculate, leather interior, 3 almost new tyres, was just wondering how much he should ask for as he wants to sell it as it is

  11. I have replaced the sealed system hydraulics on my T reg petrol freelander, but less than 12 months later I appear to have clutch drag with difficulty engaging gears.

    Are these systems reliable - I think it was a recon unit, certainly not direct from landrover.

    Is there a suitable conversion to a more substantial system?

    Might something else be the cause?

    Thanks in advance.

  12. Hi

    to change the vcu will i need to dismantle the uj's, or, with the props removed from the vehicle will there be sufficientspace to fit a spanner onto the bolts?

    Thanks in advance but I need to know how much time to allow for the job

  13. Hi again,

    I put th marks on the two "Drums" , having read further back I realise now I should have marked the actual props aswell- I did say I'm not trhe sharpest knife in the drawer.

    Thanks again

  14. Where did you put the Tippex marks?

    I have only ever tested my VCU's with the breaker bar, and if it is blomming hard to move it, and when it does move it is smooth, then I don't worry. there is an aweful lot of hype and misinformation about the VCU, mostly from people who don't actually know anything about them. Both of my Freelanders have done over 75k miles, the last one nearer 100k, and the VCU has been fine.

    If you have no other signs of problems don't worry about it and just enjoy your Freelander.

  15. Thanks for your reply.

    I don't quite seem able to get my head round this vcu thing. I was not trying to do the "tippex test" as such, but, as I had managed to force the rear wheel round without the front wheels turning I had expected that the vcu would have permitted this to happen and that the back half must have turned without the front half thereby resulting in adisplacement of the marks?

    I can't see how the whole propshaft was able to turn and the front wheels not.

    I know I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but any help appreciated.

    Thanks

  16. Hi,sorry to raise this subject again.

    I've just "tested" my vcu by jacking up one rear wheel and chocking the fronts. I was able to turn the wheel, but only with the help of a breaker bar.

    When I looked underneath, two tippex marks that I had put on the vcu were still aligned, even though the whole thing had rotated through 180 degrees.

    Should the movement on the wheel have been the result of seperation of the marks?

    Where was the difference between front and back taken up?

    Also, when the vcu is working properly, does it take a short interval for the fluid to warm up sufficiently to drive the rear wheels when the fronts loose grip?

    Thanks in advance for any replies.

  17. Hi,sorry to raise this subject again.

    I've just "tested" my vcu by jacking up one rear wheel and chocking the fronts. I was able to turn the wheel, but only with the help of a breaker bar.

    When I looked underneath, two tippex marks that I had put on the vcu were still aligned, even though the whole thing had rotated through 180 degrees.

    Should the movement on the wheel have been the result of seperation of the marks?

    Where was the difference between front and back taken up?

    Also, when the vcu is working properly, does it take a short interval for the fluid to warm up sufficiently to drive the rear wheels when the fronts loose grip?

    Thanks in advance for any replies.

  18. My L series cluch will not disengage. The pedal feels right, perhapse slightly heavy, and there appears to be full travel on the slave cylinder piston and operating arm, but the clutch does not disengage. This fault occured mid journey with no other symptoms.

    Is this a common symptom for a failed clutch - I have only experienced clutch slip when I have had clutch problems with othet vehicles?

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