raudiduncan
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Posts posted by raudiduncan
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Afternoon Fellow handy landiers!
So i have been rebuilding a 110 with 300tdi/ R380. Whilst fiddling last night i noticed there seems to be no system (that is normally present) to stop you being changing into non difflock and difflock whilst in a high/low range i.e. normally you must be in neutral to change across to the difflock side (following the path of the letter “H” follow where as i can all paths like letter “B”). I can select all 4 combinations (low and high range in non&diff lock) without issue. Additionally my difflock light is always on. (goes off if i pull the cable).
Has anyone else experienced similar issue? Any solution much appreciated..?
Thanks
Duncan
fiddling last night i noticed that I can select
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Hi Guys
just wondering if anyone has galvanised the sill and B pillar (and C pillar) assembly on a 110.
I want to but there seem to be some bolt liners through which the door hinge bolts go through. Would I need to get them out (how?) or just go ahead as is. -
Hi,
I am restoring my 110, and planning to galv the b pillar part etc
2 questions -
1. is the sill, b pillar and c pillar all welded together.
2. I want to galv the lot too but there is a insert inside the b piller which has plastic tubes in for the door hinge bolts. how is this removed?!
cheers
duncan
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Thanks guys,
Sorry for the confusion its a Utility station wagon - ie 5 doors. (though i dont think they made the utility in Dreg so guess it was changed at some point).
Mo how much you offering?!
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Hi Folks,
I have just taken ownership of my Dreg 110 (currently utility but to be CSW soon!).
I was hoping if people could give me a list of does and donts etc for a rebuild.
Car currently:
2x salisbury axles,
300tdi
gearbox ...unknown but not that slick to say the least)
Full galv chassis
doors all good, Utility rear.
Interior pretty bare/got dodgy seats in it - dash is good though.
sunroof (i would like to keep but know they are a pain!)
The Plan as i see it at the moment:
1.Strip all panels, blast and galv ALL steel work, and send all off in bits to get repainted (prob met grey - is it bonetti?)
2. Have a tinker with any mechanics that need it.
3. Look at gearbox /clutch.
Rebuild and Add following:
4. swing carrier - thinking paddock spares one
5. Side runners - are the brit part cheapos ok?
6. Boost alloys and Bf goodrich - what issues here?
7. small amount of checker - already got just needs cleaning..?
8. Snorkel - best one and place to buy?
9. Rear step (NAS what ever that means) - best place to buy?
10. and swanky roof rack at a later date
So I would appreciate any help/ comments on things to do during the rebuild i.e.
11. Door hinges - galv ?
12. galvenising things,
13. cheap interiors, seats, carpets...
14. is it really worth putting discs on back, and vent on front?
15. gearbox / clutch jobs.
16. using SS bolts or not (i thought they would reactive with ali),
17. drill all poprivets and re rivet after painting or not?
18. Cheapest/best place for parts and accessories?
19. top OS wing is sagging - can i sort out or replace?
20. OSF door is sticking out a bit at bottom...how to fix other than kick!
21. Wierdly there is a gap on NS wing by the bulkhead but not on OS any ideas why?
Appologies a long post but it could be longer!!
cheers
Duncan
Diff lock - no selector protection
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks for the responses - good news as one less thing to fix! Clearly i was mistaken as i had a td5 a few years back and was sure your couldnt slide across whilst in H or L. Anyway so what happens if you accidently knock into difflock whilst moving - does it cause damage?
Cheers