Rocket
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Posts posted by Rocket
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So
I want a new toy ........... yes a sat nav system
Want to sent £ 300 max although may go alittle higher for the right one
Spec/what I want it for
Transferable from car to car and for walking around so must have its own battery
Visual and audio directions
Points of interest
For uk only but may go on hols to NZ this xmas and would like to use it there so will need to be able to d/l or maps
Maybe for ploting where I am off road
All in one unit don't want too many cables everywhere
Speed camera alert (possibly mobile cameras/police gun type)
Largest anfd clearest screen I can get for the money
Friend of mine has just brought a Navman ICN 520 from Halfrouds £ 250 ish looks quite good
Would be interested in what you think
Many thansk for any replies
Cheers
Steve
Hi Steve
I can't rate the Garmin Quest high enough.
Check out the spec on the Garmin website. Its not much bigger than a mobile phone with a large (ish) colour screen and a 20 hour battery (rechargeable) It simply slips into your pocket for walking about off road and leaves a trail along your route so you could trackback (retrace your steps/wheelmarks) in the middle of nowhere. It clips into a holder in your car and plugs into the cigarette lighter. Using this single connection also permits voice directional commands. leaving you to concentrate on driving. It will find fuel stations and accomodation or points of interest where ever you happen to be. I have used it on aircraft on boats on a motorcycle trip around the mediteranean which took me right across Libya. I have used it in China the Phillipines and Africa I will not be parted from it. There are downladable maps available although the highly detailed city maps are only really of European cities but they all come on a CD with the unit. Check it out and have a play with one.
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I have just spoken to somebody at RPI, think it could have been Chris. Anyway one of the checks he told me to do was check the vacuum advance. i pulled the vacuum advance pipe off the plenum and sucked on it. No movement, nor was there any suction to hold in the pipe if you know what i mean. So this could be my problem. What is the best way to cure it? Can i buy just the vacuum advance unit?
Ben they are hopeless things, I think if you checked 10 of them most wouldn't work. I replaced mine when it failed (bloody expensive!!!!!) but didn't notice much difference in running but then the V8 s don't seem particularly fussed about ignition timing so I can't see what a couple of degrees of vacuum advance is going to do. I certainly don't think it is the root cause of your problem although if there are other faults this probably won't help.
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Can anyone please ID a transfer box I've got
The Number is 28D 046042B
I'm told its a 1.192 from an auto V8 Range Rover
The Specialist site says 28D is 1.22:1 and from Range Rover /Disco1
Is there anything I need to change in order to fit it to my V8 Ninety (apart from possibly the handbrake mechanism)?
Cheers
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Will the thicker ones give better results or would i not release the full potential with the thicker ones?
Thicker is better from an insulation point of view. There is no possibility of voltage going astray! Plus they are guaranteed for 10 years I beleive.
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Where does the RPI ignition amp fit into the system?
Ben I don't know the cheapest place but RPI can supply your needs and Chris is very helpful and knowledgeable on LPG and anything Rover V8
http://www.rpiv8.com/electrics-1.htm#Poweramp
Basically you remove the ignition amplifier already bolted to the side of your Dizzy and replace it with the RPI unit although it is big to mount on the Dizzy so you can mount it on the wing. Close to the coil and your vapouriser is good as you need to run wires to both.
The thickness of the Magnecor leads just makes it more difficult to clip them into the cable guides on your engine but they will fit.
Good Luck
B)
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I've got slightly conflicting info...
Prefix 24D, Suffix D
3.5 V8 PI H/C manual 1990> Discovery
Cheers,
Matt
Matt that is very interesting because that is exactly what it is supposed to be (if PI means EFi)i.e. a J plate Manual Efi Disco but according to the Specialist website prefix 24D indicates a Range Rover origin so I was begining to wonder what I'd got. It doesn't really matter but I was just curious. What was the source of your info?
Cheers
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****! I didn't realise at all else I would have helped if I could... I thought you'd stopped to strap it down a bit more - you should have asked!
I was too busy trying to get home and go pub to notice - apologies. It was anight for dodgy tres - my left rear was deflating which is why I stopped (for air).
Hi Globalhead
Yes I had stopped to restrap the motor but then noticed the soft tyre after you left. It took the air but destroyed itself a couple of miles further down the road. Luckily I had just slowed down to about 20mph in a queue of traffic when it went so it wasn't anything too dramatic. I phoned Mrs Rocket and she brought out the spare (eventually...........)
Cheers
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24D00001 Range Rover EFi manual 3528 9.35:1 1986-
from here
I take it this is the one you had on the trailer when you where chatting to that strange bloke at the garage
Many thanks!
Yes indeed. I got talking to GlobalHead and he mentioned you subscribed to this Forum.
Typical though, I blew out a tyre on the trailer about two miles later. I had no spare (thwack!) I could have done with some friendly assistance then but thats just the way things go.
Cheers
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Can anyone tell me anything about a V8 engine I have just bought
The number is 24D 16378D
Any info like model it was originally fitted to, year, capacity, compression ratio, auto/manual
would be much appreciated, or just point me at the source of such info.
Cheers
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Ben
I have replied to the backfire problem on your other thread.
I also had the problem you are experiencing with the kinked Air hose. My solution was to remove the air box and shorten the trumpet on the front. This gave enough room to re drill the mountings in the wing for the Airflometer bracket (towards front of vehicle). So the whole plot is nearer the radiator. This puts the hose back to the same shape it was originally before the LPG mixer was added to the tract. Tt works a treat.
Cheers
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Ben
The backfire is an ignition problem. LPG puts a much greater strain on your HT system than petrol. by that I mean it is harder for the voltage at the spark plug to jump the gap when running on LPG. This means that the voltage on your HT system is higher which means it will take the easiest path and if there is any weakness in your Distributor cap or HT leads it will take this route rather than the spark plug. Eventually it will ignite the LPG on one cycle effectivley causing an explosion in your inlet tract and rupturing your airflow meter hose. Classic symptoms!
This can also be exacerbated by a weak mixture.
My suggestion. Go through your HT system and replace anything old and weak paying particular attention to HT leads buy the best replacements you can afford. Magnecor are the best.
Drain out your LPG Vapouriser or better still strip it and check the diaphragm.
The lumpy running on petrol could also be the HT system now showing its deficiencies on petrol but my bet is an air leak between the airflow meter and the manifold. First make areally good job of your taped up bodge. DO NOT PUT A NEW HOSE ON YET, until you have cured the problem. If you have to because yours is too badly shredded, don't do the clamps up too tight so that if it backfires again it simply pops the hose off rather thn destroying it. Check that none of the vacuum or vent pipes have been blown off the plenum housing (giving rise to air leaks0.
Your ignition timing would be better advanced by a few degrees for optimum running on LPG and running on petrol won't be too adversely affected although the best solution is an RPI ignition amplifier which gives lovely sparks and different ignition advance depending on which fuel you are running on.
A new Diaphragm, a set of Magnecor leads and an RPI ignition amp completely transformed my EFI disco into a totally reliable supersmooth LPG running beauty.
Cheers
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Yeah got a rear tank for my 90 300 TDi. Got it from wh wheel carrers
Stills up from the same filler as the front one.
Reads90
Wow just what I'm after! How much of a work up was it? Did anything have to be removed or relocated (exhaust system etc)? What can it hold? Do you transfer from one to the other or switch the supply over to the other tank when the first gets low? Is this a stand LR tank or a special? Have the suppliers got a website or a phone number?
Cheeres
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Yes, all TD5 90's have a rear mounted tank in a similar location to 110's.
Hi Western
Do you know what has to be done to install a TD5 tank in an 1989 Ninety?
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Hi Guys
In order to extend the overall Fuel capacity of a V8 90 is it possible to fit an additional fuel tank from a later 90 model? I notice the filler position is at the rear on a TD5 Does this mean the Fuel tank is at the rear too?
I may eventually go to LPG and would like to know what options there are for fitting LPG tanks without affecting off road ability or filling the loadspace. It may be that the only practical position for the LPG tank is under the drivers seat instead of the present petrol tank. In which case I would need an additional petrol tank elsewhere.
Ideas anyone?
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..and as if by magic I just hapen to have a screen capture of that very scene...
PS: Ice Cold In Alex was released in 1958. details here.
That desert town was actually Tripoli in Libya where most of it was filmed. That scene was Algeria square near the Post Office (stood on the spot last year [sad Git]) although it was supposed to be Alexandria in Egypt for the storyline. Good film though!
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RPI reckon 230KG for a "fully dressed" engine, think I'll save the bathroom scales this time
I was just thinking you must be a big bloke if you thought your scales would read 230Kgs!
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Ha;f shafts on drummed axles are differnt to disc, they have the same slpines into the diff tho at this age - 10 spline
Casing is completely different at the wheel ends, and they are not interchangeable as a casing with a disc saxle casing
RR axklesd and 90 axles are completely different inside, CV on RR are seperate to the stub shafts, 90 have a one piece CV with stub shaft, the CV on the diff side have a selection of sizes, 1988 probably the weakest at 32 spline, and won't fit into 90 cv, but the diffs are 10 spline so will fit the 90
It wouild be very clear if you pulled the 2 front axles apart !
Nige
Thanks Nige
So when HD half shafts are mentioned for V8s this only refers to different splines on the wheel/CV end? so are all diffs regardless of engine or year 10 spline (I'm only talking about coilers here!)?
Cheers
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I have lifted a V8 full with a mate
I know two people that have lifted them complete into the back of my 90 in the past I could never manage it.
(I would not want to spill there pints)
Jules can you put me in touch they sound like handy blokes to know (assuming they are actually blokes)!!!
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RPI put them at 230kg 'fully dressed' RPI
To get around your lift height it may help to remove the front wheels and lower the vehicle to the axle whilst you swing the engine in.
Now there is some lateral thinking. Nice one Steve, I like that!!!!
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Rear Half shafts no,
Rear diff yes,
Front CVs no,
front shafts no
front diif yes
front casing Yes
Rear Casing no
Nige
Oh!
I guess I can see why the rear half shafts are different because they probably have fixed drive plate on the wheel end but do they have the same number of splines at the diff end? and if so won't my shafts fit? Whats different about the rear casing?
On the front of 90 I think I have a dodgy spline on the front nearside between CV and halfshaft.
So wouldn't I be able to swap mine fore the RR?
Cheers
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ZF 4 Speed with a LT230
Yep axle will fit, check that both shocks face forwards on both your 90 and RR which they should at these years, its a nuts bolts and PITA job but worth it
HTH
Nige
Hi Nige
How did I guess it would be you that answered!
Good news on the Axle. My shocks definitely face forward but I'll have to check the RR. Re the LT230 would that by any remote chance be a 1.192:1 ratio? and would you happen to know if the RR half shafts, diffs and CVs would be interchangeable with those of my 1989 V8 Ninety?
Cheers
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Hi Guys
Which autobox and Transfer box would be fitted to an 88 F reg 3.5 V8 Range Rover? Would the disc rear axle fit my 1989 V8 Ninety?
Cheers
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Wikipedia puts it at 170 kg (375 lb) dry weight. No idea whether that includes ancillaries - it's for an early 3.5, so a later car with extra bits would offset the saving from not having the intake manifold I guess. No idea how accurate that is - wikipedia is notoriously unreliable. This site (www.v8church.com) says only 320lb depending on ancillaries - it appears to be just someone's home page, so in the absence of more reliable confirmation take that with a pinch of salt too.
Thanks, so around 150 Kgs then which is much more than a safe two man lift. Mmmmm.......... OK engine hoist needed to get it into and out of my trailer.
In case anyone hadn't guessed I'm looking at a motor transplant. Does anyone know how much headroom is required to get a V8 out of/ into a standard 90 (on 7.50 x 16s)?
cheers
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Hi Guys
I'm sure someone will know the answer to this
What does a 3.5 V8 Efi motor weigh (roughly) if complete with all ancilliarys but no manifolds?
I need the same info for a transfer box and axles complete without springs or wheels.
cheers
V8 shell bearings which size?
in International Forum
Posted
Hi can anyone identify my V8 bearing shells from the numbers?
I am stripping a 1991 Discovery 3.5 V8 motor. I have whipped out a big end and main bearing shell in the hope it would tell me what size they were. The main bering has a number 610865 and appears to be a vandervell manufacture with part number 5052. the big end shell has a number ERC 2587 and vandervell number 5051. Are these standard or an oversize? Unfortunately the parts books I have don't list these numbers and a google search doesn't turn up anything either (preumably because they are no longer available from that manufacturer). I would really like to have the replacements on hand before I get the crank out to measure it. The journals look to be in really good nick.
Cheers