MasterSplicer
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its also sold under the name Dux Diamond - I hated it
Wel i have never seen it as Dux Diamond so i can't tell.Maybe i should say it differently this rope is never sold as Dux Diamond. I have seen al sorts of copys of this rope with al kind of names but that was never the DUX rope.
In fact this Icelandic rope is really fabricated in Litouwen. There is there rope factory stationed. So maybe with your connections in these areas should be able to buy a spool.
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The best synthetic rope on the market today is the one of Masterpull. They cal it there superline and that's what it is. There is no other rope what getting close to there breaking strenght of there ropes. The one Lara is refering to is even there "old" line,what has a braided cover arround it.
Funny thing here is that they claim is that it's there in the house made rope and that isn't really the thruth. This is a 100% European made rope. The rope comes from Island where it is bin used on fisher trawlers al over the world. It's the same rope where Gigglepin is refering to. The Masterpull rope is extremly expensiv specially when you buy the one with braided cover arround it. The braided cover by it self is extremly strong. Thought the breaking strenght of that cover is by it self already something like 2200 kg. There advert in the past was that the ropes with the braided cover was even made stronger because of that fact. But that wasn't thrue eather as during test it was very clear that the rope and the inner fibres whare acting differently from each other. So you can't count the braided cover and the ropes own fibres together.
Another negativ point here is that the rope with the braided cover can't be spliced. Some ropes with braided cover you stil can splice as a normal rope without braided cover but these masterpull ropes you can't. The braided cover is so dense that you can't put even a nail into it. Great advantage of the braided cover is that it keeps out mud sand stones etc till the cover brakes. Then it wil be a big mud trap. The debree gets into the rope and can't get out anymore. I have used these sorts of lines many times and i know , i think where i am talking about. Because of the fact that you can't splice these braided ropes Masterpull decided to made there thimble/hook connection by a knot. This is not a simple knot. The way the knot is made it's never wil get loose but wil get tighter with every more kg what goes into the knot. we have called them killer knots because they wil cut thrue the line as they where sharp as a knive. These knots wil kill the line they reduce the strenght of the line by 50-60%. In my time as being officially involved in the making/testing from al kind of hoisting/lifting/winching applications i have more then once contacted them that they sold a very dangerous solution to the people. but they revused to change there not as there is no other way to connect the thimble to these lines. I have used the same line on my own hydr.winch as Lara does and it never broke because of the knot. But in my testing facility it did and i can assure you that these machines are very accurat. The only explanation what i could come up with is the fact that during hard winching you never came close to the strenght where the knot would do it's work. To proof my theorie it did test in the real. I recorded al the real pulling strenghts of the hydr.winch on every layer and with a reading of the hydr.pressures in the systems. Soon as i had this data i could use it in the field. And even you are really stuck up to the doors i never got over the 3500 kg pulling power from the winch to free my self. I could do the same tests again with a calibrated loadcell to give even more proof. But stay away from a knot in the rope specially when it's a sort of hangman knot construction.
The other thing i would like to correct is that somebody here in the topic said that dyneema and plasma are the same. They are not. The early dyneema ropes where sometimes breaking without real reason. The only reason why these ropes broke was the fact that they sold a dyneema rope from a total different sort. Still dyneema but not as strong as the SK-75 fibre. So in these days the dyneema rope got maybe a bad name because of that fact. The reason why the dyneema rope of Masterpull is so much stronger as the rest is lying in the fact that it's a pre-stretched rope. It starts it's live as a thicker rope but by heathing it up and then in the same time stretching it you get an incredible strong product. The end result is sold as DUX rope. There 11 mm is doing 18000 kg and there 9 mm is doing 12000. During my own tests with the rope i had even higher breaking rates when the rope was spliced as the factory. It al depends on how wel you make the splice. But in the reall live it's not that important as there is no winch out there what can break it. But when it's comes to determine the real breaking strenght then these details are very important.
The reall rope killers are the fair leads used these days. Specially on challenge cars where very often the car has to pulled arround what means the ropes makes a 90 degree angle in the corner of the fairlead. Here the inner live of the fibres get killed. In fact the structure of the fibres in this area gets completly pulverised. You can't see nothing on the outside of the rope it al happens in the rope it self. That's why sometimes ropes seems to break without touching nothing on a straight pul. These ropes are sometimes allready very badly damaged in the core allready. When you would like to optimize the fairlead the diameter has to go up with big numbers and that's not really an option. Turning the rope around helps here. Drum side wil be hook side and the other way arround.
But as stated before somwhere in this tropic it's very difficult to buy it here in Europe. Besides US there are not really many people who sell it. And the rope factory self is absolute not interested in selling a few 100 meters of it. They only selling it in 10000 of meters or even more.
So the next best rope is in my opinion the one from Mr.Andy T. The Plasma rope. It's build with very high standards and it's a first class rope. But a completly different one from the the a have discribe here above.
Hope that this wil give some serious information to the topic.
Regards
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I have put this web page in my computer and i wil not forget about it. Sure when i am in Sweden these sort of events getting much closer. I have done a few in Scandinavie so far and i like it out there.
The way they organise events is different from what we do here. And then i mean the UK events not the Dutch ones.
But yes i guess that it's something as Andras was doing in the past. Sounds very good. Did you do one your self already? Or planning to do one maybe??
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Hi Dolly,
It looks a little like the GPS events in Hungary years ago. And the specially the last ones.Big area and then hunt for points as many as you can get. But there it was 48 hours and in Finland it's 24 hours.
Is there GPS involved? would say so!! Seems to be fun to this event.
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Jezz,
You have a web address maybe?? What area off Finland??
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Got ya !
Just got back from Coevorden but had to do a mad dash to the plane after work so never got a chance to visit any dealers...
You have bin at ET Coevorden? They are working with landRover!!
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Mastersplicer,
The advantage of Holland is that I go over quite often with work... If I booked a trip to Hungary, it would cost me! Cheers for the thought...
Hi Fatboy i think you mis understood me. I helped that guy buying a car here in Holland and then he exported the car to Hungary.
What i was trying to say is that this way he saved a lot of money
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I have helped somebody in Hungary buying a brandnew Discovery. He bought one at last and he saved him self more then 7000 Euro's on the same car bought in Hungary.
I am not sure if the same would go in your situation but the company where the Hungarian guy bought his car told us that he sold more as 30% of his total to other countries in Europe. Also to the UK!!
Hope this is some help
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Hi there Master S...
Would be interested in seeing the pic's aswell...
my email is LH@123v.com
TIA
Lawrence
Sorry Lawrence never seen this til now. Sended some photo's to your mail address.
Rob
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Here:
They double up as my false (antislip) floor in normal use. They are locked into place by closing the rear door. Length is almost full length, they go under the bulkhead and the seat base. The length is only limited by the PTO sticking out of the transferbox.
During competition, I have them loose on top of the wheelboxes.
Daan
Nice Daan like that and specially your wheel arch. Very nicly done. you are running 35"isn't it?? Was thinking to do similair to create space for the 36" Any suggestions what you would change when you had to do it again??
rob
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Galtech serie number two al fits to the PTO. Serie number 3 wil not fit at al you need to make a special adapter as i have done my self and then serie 3 pump wil fit.
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Dolly,
It looks like one big pleasant mad house really al great fun. Stil hoping one day. But i am getting closer to it anyway soon as i have made my move up north.
As somebody ask before are there any video's dvd's yet??
rob
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First pic is my team mate Kari Sihovenen in his TR3 defender - Tapio his beatch wasnt having a lot of fun
the swamp on that track was pretty good - the greener bit in the backround was bottomless... guess how I know that Second pic is Petsis from Estonia, its a Chrysler/mog proto and its pretty tasty
next year we'll have him 
sorry about the lack of chrome
Hi Dolly how strong are the trees i mean without drive assit they stil wil stay or fall over??
Good photo's seems that the wether was good as wel no rain??
And suprised to see on several photo's so many people. Thought the area is/was really remote but the photo's show different.
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Nice video Paul that's excact how the Argyll was.
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I am looking into the possibility of going for an 8274 and wonder if anyone has any experience of the Giglepin upgrade?
Has anyone got one and how does it perform?
Thanks
John
Bathtub used one at the Argyll 2006 and he did very wel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I very much enjoyed the event. A shame about my truck breaking down a few times (I sheared a key of my pto winch, and I ripped a valve out of my wheels on 3 occasions). But as an event, I liked it very much.
Thanks to richard and his team, Hope to see you back next year.
Daan
Hi Daan,
Good talking with you. Next time a wil have "stroopwafels"with me. Sorry didn't see you anymore at al. when we came out on sunday everybody was already gone back home.
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Hi
I'm in the process of fabricating a tubular bumper incorperating a H14 to my 90
Interested what size you have got on yours and why
48.3, 60, 76 or 89 or have you used box section 50 x 50, 60 x 60, 70 x 70, 80 x 80 or retangular 75 x 50, 80 x 60 or similar
Thanks all
Steve
Used a 110 mm outside diameter tube. wall 5 mm thick
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I'm a big fan of full hydro. But...
I also need to pass an SVA. Jez - your suggestion of using a regular system and changing after is good and would probably get you through, but I wonder if there isn't a system which maintains a solid mechanically linked system and hydro assist in a robust way - thereby being legal AND 100 percent groovy?
I know it exhibits roughly 14.35 percent less bling factor, but... meh.
Something like the power steering kit for series landies would probably be a good place to start (obviously useless under these circumstnces - I'm talking about ideas and principles here). If you can brace the input from the hydro against something solid, you're half way there.
Anyone got any input on a legal (not just scrape an MOT, but truly DVLA/plod-proof) system? It must be possible, and if it's doing and real road work, having a mechanical link in the background is a nice plan in my opinion.
Al.
There is such a system. I didn't wanted but i have seen these peoples website in US. Can't remember who it was but give this guy a cal and he wil help you out.
Sean Stapley
Performance Off-Road Systems
1712 Indian Pines Rd.
Wetumpka Al, 36093
Phone# 334 567 7229
Fax 334 567 7220
I discussed this stuff with him. I bought full hydr. at his place. Very nice guy to deal with.
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"Load ratings apply only to rod ends without grease fittings. For load ratings with fittings, please consult our engineering department"
The above from the Aurora catalogue (not a cheap poor quality company)
"Rod end load ratings based on no lubrication fitting. For load ratings of rod ends with lubricator, please contact FK engineering department"
FK catalogue.
If you drill a hole through it it cannot be as strong.
Big rebuildables as on PIrate (Evolution et al) are strong because they are enormous.
FB
I have used RODOBAL motor sports joints after AURORA couldn't help me with my specific request. BTW i had this name given my a friendly sales man from AURORA because he new these people had a special made one. The one i should look for,was greaseble as i wanted.
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Grumpfh..........
90 "Views" and 4 wisecracks
Ho Hum,
Nige
Looks massiv and heavy!!! how thick is your choice of the steel. I would make it far more open,but you have seen my photo's.
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If greasables are not weaker then why do the manufacturers quote lower ultimate radial loads for ones with grease nipples? And I am talking about quality ones.
FB
I am using quality ones used in rally and formula sport and no lower ratings when grease nipple used.
And the one what are review on pirate are greasble and you can rebuild them and they are the strongest to buy right now.
I have no idea where or what you are using
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Any body want to have a guess as to what there using for a pivot?
so what is the pivot what they have used here??
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What you're suggesting is good for the back but does't solve the real problem at the front. Here, because each radius arm is attached to the axle by two bushes, when articulating this has the effect of the two radius arms tryig to twist the axle in opposing directions. Imagine as one arm drops and the other is raised.
I have used that setup with a rose joint instead of the normal rubbers. Only connected to the axel with one arm on the top.Like the safarigard stetup and that worked very wel.
As a said before i have used the rose joints front and rear and never had any troubles with them. Play on the proper made rose joint takes some time to notice it. I am talking about 50000 km and there are still in use. But i grease them the proper way. And i don't really think that the grease is a lubrication film over the parts but it presses out the dirt and water.
What about the first photo's in this topic did anybody of you has that setup ever seen really. Looks interresting but nobody seems to talk about that setup??
Tried to find some more of it but there isn't really much to find
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So when i am correct then you guys have taken away the panhard rod completly!!?? Must be because that thing is work of the devil.
But the side to side forces are very high so your triangulated arm must be strong as the mountings.
Nice to see people are trying and tackle it the different way,Like it.
You guys had bumpsteer really with this etup?? Little suprised really,would thought it would have bumpsteer in this setup.
Are you also planning front hydr steer as wel??
keep up the good work
the swamp on that track was pretty good - the greener bit in the backround was bottomless... guess how I know that 
next year we'll have him 
Synthetic winch cable
in International Forum
Posted
So why you didn't buy it without the braided cover? In my opinion and experience the braided cover is a waist of money. I thought you pay extra 1,60 Euro extra each meter. Was it yellow or orange?
But i agree what you say there because when the braided cover starts to fall apart then it is some times difficult to get it of the drum when you have to pul it of by hand