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teessidelad25

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Posts posted by teessidelad25

  1. Right I've finally bit the bullet and bought a new short engine. 3200 for everything engine,cams,timing chain,new steering damper and flex disc between engine and gearbox and fitted.

    Carl

    New engine fitted at a cost of 3.5K yes i know expensive but he had me by the short an curly's. Anyway did 500 miles then the bloody RED light came on again ARGH!!!!!!!

    Managed to get it recovered to the garage where engine fitted and he told me its the Heater Matrix that's gone and that caused the system to overheat. Even thou it only lost about a pint of water. But now he telling me because the engine has over heated and i mean the red light was on for about 10 seconds that the engine warranty is now void. Anyone any ideas on what i can do ??

    CARL

  2. Update

    New engine fitted at a cost of 3.5K yes i know expensive but he had me by the short an curly's. Anyway did 500 miles then the bloody RED light came on again ARGH!!!!!!!

    Managed to get it recovered to the garage where engine fitted and he told me its the Heater Matrix that's gone and that caused the system to overheat. Even thou it only lost about a pint of water. But now he telling me because the engine has over heated and i mean the red light was on for about 10 seconds that the engine warranty is now void. Anyone any ideas on what i can do ??

    CARL

  3. Hi

    I love my P38 2001 range rover to bits but my family has expanded again and now need to look at fitting a rear seat conversion kit to turn it into 7 seats. Does anyone know where i can get a kit or find someone who fits them. i found one on ebay which came from a 2003 rr but not sure if it will fit into a P38.

    Anyone fitted a conversion kit ????

  4. That statement worries me ........... sounds like they started the engine and found the coolant system to be immediately pressurising and assumed that the head gasket was the issue. They should have done a compression test on each cylinder to confirm that suspicion and to determine exactly which cylinder(s) and which bank were affected.

    The fact that there is no coolant in the oil also confirms the liner problem as the coolant is burnt off as steam........ when a head gasket blows, then often coolant will dribble into the oil when the engine is at rest as the pressure in the coolant system is released.

    If they are saying there is a liner issue then I would expect that cylinder to have a steam cleaned look about it ....... this would have also been evident on the plug.

    So, are you saying its £1500 just to change the head gaskets and fill the coolant system with a ceramic sealer ?

    The difference between a long and short engine …………. a short engine is just the block, crank, conrods, & pistons ………. a long engine also includes the cam & heads …………. A fully dressed engine also includes all the ancillaries.

    Right I've finally bit the bullet and bought a new short engine. 3200 for everything engine,cams,timing chain,new steering damper and flex disc between engine and gearbox and fitted.

    Carl

  5. Donald (Fatboy) is 100% correct ..............I suspect your dealers will try to use "K seal". This works sometimes but is definately not a 100% cure and it may not work at all, or it may last a week, or it may last a year .......... but it is not a 100% fix. Also there is a possibility that another cyliner will go the same way in the fullness of time.

    The only complete cure is to get the engine rebuilt with Top hat liners ........

    TBH they should not be charging for taking the heads off :rolleyes: ............. diagnostics should have told them the head gaskets were OK ......... a simple compression test will have shown that the compression figures were OK ............ a further examination of the plugs will have shown the offending cylinder.......... a faulty head gasket will always show bad compression figures on one or more cylinders.

    Gents

    He did do a compression test and apparently the system was pressurising instantly. Plugs were ok as well no water in oil.

    I am concerned over the fact of sopending 1500 if its not a long term fix as i do want to keep the car. Can someone please give advice as to where to go for a new engine?? whats the difference between short and long ???

    i'm very gratefull for all this help

  6. please email me at armsonae@yahoo.co.uk with your details and i will contact you cheers

    Gents some more information from the Garage.

    Heads stripped and have found its not the gasket but a leak between the liner and block in cylinder no.2

    He is proposing that he uses a ceramic sealer from america to seal the leak and also replace the worn cam shaft and followers and timing chain.

    Anyone heard of this Ceramic sealer stuff.

    i guess my other option is to look at a new block of complete engine ???

  7. Seems ok ish to me …………. The book time for both head gaskets is 7.55 hours and I guess about £75 parts …………… book time for the timing chain is 2.5 hours, but should be a little less with the heads off ………….again a max of £50 parts.

    Well its booked in for 29th Dec but taking longer due to there machine shop not being open til 5th Jan, also includes pressure testing and guarantee dont think many garages give that.

  8. Call me a skeptic but i thought the AA checked the coolant for contamination - and bearing in mind this fault has been ongoing for some time i would be looking at a blockage in the cooling system causing air-locks and / or restricted circulation - its all too easy on these engines to go straight for the old head gasket problem diagnosis.

    Yes the AA did check for gases but that was about 2 months ago and garage said they checked for gases and found them. Also water/coolant in exhaust system ??

    I was thinking along same line as urself some sort of blockage but how would i find it it doesnt even run for 5 mins now without overheating its never been this bad used to get atleast 20 mins before overheating.

  9. well guys

    Had it to a LR specialist mainly does P38's and done pressure tests and its the head gaskets, also water coming out the exhaust.

    apparently pressurising pretty much straight away.

    Quoted me 600 to do the heads oil change and guarante. does this sound reasonable? also said he would do timing chain, crank shaft oil seal and sterring damper for an extra 300.

    carl

  10. Hi guys

    I've got a Range Rover P38 Spec Ed Westminster 2001.

    Have mega problems with overheating. it all started about 8 months ago went it started overheating but couldnt see any water leaks so suspected Thermostat, changed and refilled system and ran fine for bout 4 weeks.

    then started overheating again and losing water and checked system and found water pump was leaking from mech seal on shaft and also gasket. changed water pump and refilled again, again all works for about 5 months.

    Went to work in the RR and red light came on and called AA guy came out and told him history then he checked for combustion gases in the coolant and all was clear nothing. took car home drained the coolant system best i could and refilled again took about 10.5 litres of coolant mix i know book says 11.3 litres but guessed it wasnt totally empty. anyways the car ran fine for about another 6 weeks.

    Now its started again but im losing mega amounts of coolant last night it started only did about 7 miles and red light came on so pulled over and luckily i always carry a big bottle of water (2Litre) in the car so took cap off let it depressurise (seemed to be quite pressurised) then filled it up with the 2 litres of water. did about 2 miles if that and again red light, so pulled over and called the AA, filled up the tank with another 7 litres off water and pulled onto back of recovery truck and took us home took car of truck and parked up checked tank and tank was empty ?? wheres water gone none on truck so not leaked ??? mega mystery no water in car ive put 9 litres of water in the system and only did 2 miles and still overheating whats happening mystery ???

    help appreciated. i know its a long post but want you to know full story

    taking it to a local independent ex LR tech next week for Pressure testing.

  11. Hi everyone

    I've got a RR 51 plate 4.0 Westminster spec Ed.

    recently had mega problems that started from Flat Battery but since i got battery changed and finally sorted KeyCode Lockout I've now noticed some other things immediately after fitting a new battery.

    Handbook light is on the HEVAC unit and cant get any warm air on the passenger side of the vehicle but the driver side is fine. Centre vent is cold on left but warm on right seems strange to me any ideas ??

    also me Heated seats have suddenly started working and havent since i bought the car about 2 years ago

    All help much appreciated.

  12. Hi Guys

    I'm now having problems with Keycode Lockout.

    I had a flat battery about 9 months back and got this bloody Keycode lockout eventually found out what me code was and then entered it after several ways it worked all gr8.

    Now i've had a flat battery again and battery is u/s fitted new one but cant get the EKA to work no flashing lights or anything as i seem to remember last time there was a flashing hazard ligfht when it goes in right.

    Any help much appreciated.

    My local LR independent garage reckon they can input the EKA with the T4 diagnostics is this true ????

    CARL

  13. Hello Guys since my last post i have since found that i have been losing the coolant from my Heater Matrix. I did replace the Thermostat and if i keep ontop of the coolant level then it doesnt seem to overheat still seems to be lots of pressure in the expansion tank thou,.

    One question i do have is that how quickly should the temperature gauge move to half way.

  14. Im also having this problem with book on HEVAC unit. Blend motors seem to be diverting ok but air con is hardly working if at all. Heating doesnt seem to be working either, one other thing thou is that my heater matrix is leaking and obviously losing coolant, could all this be connected ??

    Carl

  15. Thats exactly what mine was doing. When you rev the engine the water pressure get up because the water pump is moving faster. I solved my problem by replacing the hose. The other thing was, the water was leaking onto the exhaust so was evaporating quite quickly. Might be worth getting someone to look around the engine while you rev it and see if they can spot any water leaking out.

    HTH

    Ivan

    when i rev mine the water in the expansion tank is bubbling thou i'm assuming you didnt have this ??

  16. Not quite as technical as the grown ups above but, one problem I had on my 1991 Discovery V8i was losing water from the system. I checked everywhere and no water in oil, no smoke or steam etc. I eventually found the fault was a split heater pipe that was leaking into the valley area and running down the back of the engine. It did not show up under idle conditions only after driving for a while. The split was only small so only showed itself when the thermostat opened and the water go up to pressure (IYSWIM).

    HTH

    Ivan

    Mine seems to be losing water only when i rev so not sure if this is the same problem or not gonna be a hard one to find i think. did u consider the head gasket ?????

  17. Be warned, there is a guy working out of Thirsk who has been responsible for screwing up a number of Land Rovers recently. He claims to be a qualified Land Rover mechanic but has no such qualification and has cost his "customers" a fortune to put right his "repairs".

    I've seen the results of his work at Maddison 4x4 (as the local Land Rover specialist they usually end up picking up the pieces) where some of his victims have had to have the work rectified afterwards.

    Not saying it is the same guy, more of a warning that you need to be careful who you pass on your hard earned to. There are quite a few good and trustworthy garages and mechanics in the area. I can recommend Maddison 4x4 or Station Autos myself, not had any experience with the others.

    hello thanks for your advice the garage ive had a quote of was a mate of a mate garage called CJ Autos in Thirsk near A19.

    My main concern for it not being the head gasket is where is all my water going its not in the oil as ive checked this and no smoke, or steam and no misfires????????

  18. You could do a compression test on all 8 cylinders when cold, if the compressions are all good then its more unliklely not to be a head gasket.

    Go for a run, when it gets really hot push the clutch in / into neutral, ignition off, and coast to stop, then remove all the spark plugs, they SHOULD all be the same colour, if one looks steam cleaned then thats the cylinder at issue, the more steam cleaned it is the less likley its a head gasket

    But, the best check is to remove the cylinders heads and check the vlave area and piston crowns

    Head gaskets do fail, and I have replaced many without having to skimm them, yes some do need it, but not always, need to check the heads to see if they can be skimmed (if done before oo many times there is a limit) and even if they need skimming.

    All in all I am unconvinced with the diagnosis, if it is right and everything is done properly price is OK

    Nige

    Where can i get a compression test done ??? or how do i do it????

    my car is Automatic so just put in neutral and let it coast to a stop without using brakes yeah???

    appreciate all this advice

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