[Bushes]

well guys here's the update.

I manage to win a fleabay auction so i am now the proud owner of a full set of polybush blue for a little over £50 so I'll be heading down the road of replacing the OEM's with these at some point when the weather gets warmer.

Any tips on fitting these that could potentially save me a lot of heartache ?

[Bushes]

Just to add even more confusion to the whole issue.

I was at my local indepdent yesterday for an LPG problem so thought I'd ask them whilst I was there, and they told me they have started fitting the Britpart bushes and have no problems with them at all.

I'd almost given up on poly type bushes, but now I'm keen again, although I think I would be more inclined to go for Polybush blue over Britpart for no other reason that no one has commented on the Britpart ones but there's plenty of feedback on the Polybush ones and most of it seems to be positive.

Whilst on the subject has anyone got Britpart bushes fitted ??

[Bushes]

thanks for the input guys, I guess I'm going to stick to OEM's then.

I take it there a real barsteward to fit as a DIY job ??

[Bushes]

I also went for OEM. I didn't want any 'poly' devices because:

I didn't know what the resulting ride would be like.

I expected the life would be less, because the inner metal bush is not bonded to the flexible 'poly'.

The purchase price was higher.

You don't say whether you DIY or not.

Note the OEM bush has a larger external diameter than the hole in the radius arm.

The official way of resolving this is to push the bush through a tapered sleeve before the bush enters the arm.

I believe some people on here have created / used some other method.

HTH

If I were to go down the route of a poly type bush it would almost certainly be a DIY job, but as I don't have a dirty great big press if I stuck to the OEM it would be going into a garage.

[Bushes]

Guys I'm looking for thougts / feedback.

I've got a 4.6 P38 that is used primarily on the road but have an advisory on the MOT relating to radius arm bushes which I would usually take with a pinch of salt, but whilst servicing today you can see the standard bushes are showing signs of cracking so I guess I need to do something about it now.

My question is this.

What is everyone else using and the pro's and cons / good or bad experiences?

So far I've looked at

Deflex

Polybush

Britpart

OEM

I don't want (or need) a rock hard ride so whatever the choice should offer similar ride to the originals Landrover rubber bushes.

Thanks Paul

[Can you buy.......]

sorry no its the v8 4.0l

If you can I'd be interested in knowing as last time I replaced mine it was the whole assembly for the cost of a small bearing......riddiculous

[Engine stalls]

Hi all,

Can someone help me please.

I have a 4.6 hse 2001 auto.

If I sit in traffic for more than a minute or 2 in hot weather my engine slows down and then stalls.

If I catch it and pull way it is very sluggish, once she is off it is fine until the next set of lights where it happens again.

Any advice please.

sandman

I had a similar problem not so long ago and it turned out to be a faulty MAFF sensor.

[P38 Woes]

I'll second what escape said and add...

I run a 4.0l (the Thor engine), been a good reliable motor over the last 3 years, only costs have been petrol and servicing.

The viscous box is a LOT quieter than the LT230, which is the main reason they used it.

Fuel consumption on the 4.0 is between 18 and 24 MPG 24 on a motorway run at around 80MPH, 18 around town.

Towing a caravan is effortless, I much prefer towing with the P38 rather than either of my Defenders, just remember to lock the suspension so it doesn't go into cruise mode when you're towing (just use the manual switch on the dash). It really is a case of you just not noticing the caravan is there, the MPG is good too, probably because I go a bit slower

I was originally looking for a 4.6 but am glad I went for the 4.0 now.

I run the 4.6 THOR and although it initially cost me a fair chunk of money due to it not be properly looked after by the previous owner, I can report in the last 2 years of ownership the only cost I've had (apart from the usual service items and general wear and tear things like track rod ends) is a new MAFF sensor at a cost of £89 which to be honest is pretty good going (although initially it did cost me £4k for a new engine and ancillaries) Again mine is LPG converted and apart from the anual LPG service at the same time as the MOT I've not had any problems. I use the car as my every day car doing some 20000+ miles each year, and she's currently sitting at 115000 miles on the clock. Starts first time every time and it's a really nice place to be especially on long cruises. They're relatively easy to work on (especially it you invest in a MSV system or something similar) the general wear and tear parts are cheap and easy to come by and the question Would I own another? ........most definitely..........which I think in itself speaks volumes.

[P38 Woes]

Thank you for that very detailed answer it is much appreciated.

What sort of cost is cylinder liner modification?

Thanks,

At the time of looking a few years ago all the rebuilders were roughly the same price, I opted for a short engine from v8 developments (approx £2500)

[The Plan!]

New to this so be nice,

My plan is to continue gathering funds and early next year buy a Range Rover DSE, with manual transmission and the 2.5L 300TDI lump. Looking for a clean tidy black one to use as a daily run around but I will be getting it a little dirty from time to time.

I guess is have a few questions

whats your opinion of the DSE?

I've been told that the 300TDI is a better option than the BMW engine, agree?

Are they expencive to run and maintain?

What is the avalibility of parts and their cost like?

Any idea how much it would cost for a total respray?

Ta muchly peoples.

#

IMHO, I would seriously retink your plan and opt for an LPG converted V8, it'll be cheaper to run / maintain than the diesel and give you heaps more power and torque.

[gas conversion]

Hi, Does anyone have info on best lpg set up for rangerover L322...prices...etc...???

Cheers

Having had a few LPG systems fitted over the years I can honestly say without any bias that the Nicholson Maclaren system is the most robust system I've had experience of. It's usually badged AG (autogas) and as a general rule is slightly more expensive than some of the other systems on the market.....but hey you pay for what you get

Paul

[Advice on 2.5 dse purchase]

Im new to the forum so first of all Hi

Im looking to buy a range rover 2.5 DSE and im loking for some pointers on things to look out for.

Looking at getting a 97-99 model.

What sort of thing apart from rust in the usual places should i be looking out for?

Alot i have seen state 'bmw engine' is this good or bad?

Thanks all for any advice.

Chris

I'd be inclined to agree with 6cyltdi (Daniel).

IMHO you'd be better off getting a gas converted V8, the running costs will be cheaper, they're faster, they're quieter, there's infinitely miles more torque and low end grunt produced and nowadays you can get a late year one for sweeties.

At least test drive both the petrol and the diesel versions first.....the differences will become apparant instantly and you'll change your mind regarding the diesel...i know i did and that's when diesel was under 80p not the £1.30+ it is nowadays

Paul

[Pulling to n/side]

Pulling to one side is either brakes as mentioned above, tracking (checked) or a wheel bearing on its way out.

I had the same problem on my 99 p38 that turned out to be the tyres even though they looked fine.... easily ruled out by swapping the 2 front tyres around to see it is starts to pull in the opposite direction.

[Engine Oil]

thanks guys.

I'll take your advice and opt for the 20-50 (probably the VR1 stuff) as the last thing i want is to have to replace the engine again.

Next 3 questions then,

1.How does using the thicker oil effect cold starting performance seen as in winter it can easily get down to minus 10 where we live ?

2.Does anyone know where to get the VR1 cheaply either in Aberdeenshire or mail order,

3. Does anyone want to buy 8l of mobil 1 .....only joking I'll stick it in my other car !

[Engine Oil]

You are probably burning it.

There has been much discussion over the years on all LR forums about oil & the V8.

Full synthetics are not recommended for the old technology of the V8.

Frequent oil changes seem to be the key, the LR suggestion of 6000 is too long & many, me included, opt for 3 to 4000.

I have used Castrol 15w-40 for many years without incident.

Cheers Paintman,

I don't know if this has any bearing on things, but I should of mentioned that the car is a 4.6 (thor) and used as my daily car averaging approx 75-80 miles/day

[Engine Oil]

My understanding is that oils whether synthetic or not will more or less be the same viscosity 'thin' when hot, its just that the synthetic remains 'thinner' when cold than conventional oils - therefore changing to a different type of oil would make no difference - unless it only leaks when the engine is cold of course.

I have Mobil 1 fully synthetic in my car (Diesel Mercedes) and with the onboard service interval computer i regularly get 18,000 miles between oil changes. Mind you it costs me £110 for the oil as it takes shed loads.

Most people really rate Mobil 1 and i would suggest the the original manufacturers oil change intervals could be extended when using this type of oil??????????

thanks for the speedy response Steve, in that case I'll be sticking to the Mobil as living in rural north scotland we had wide spread ground frost just this week.

It'll be intersting to find out what others are using

[Engine Oil]

I'm interested in hearing what you guys are pouring into the heart of you beast.

Ever since having the engine replaced (porus block) with a top hat linered block I've been using fully synthetic Mobil 1 0-40w, but have always had a slight leak from somewhere, no big deal, loosing about a litre for every oil change (10,000 miles).

I was wondering if I used a thicker oil say 10-50 would this help to decrease the leak, but could I get this as a fully

sythethic oil, or would this need to be a semi ??

Anyhow, feedback would be appreciated as the oil service is now due (next weekend probably) and at the same time I was going to swap out the sump gasket, incidentally has anyone swapped one out and is it a straight forward enough job ?

Should of mentioned the engine has done 26,000 mile since the transplant without any real hiccups so I have no real concerns over the Mobil 1 stuff, but I have read the dirty big V8 likes thicker blood.

[am i being naive ?]

What you have experienced is the wonder of adaptive fuelling, resulting from closed loop running.

Simply, the output of the oxygen or lamba sensors in the exhaust is fed back (the closed loop) to the Engine ECU (not the BECM).

The ECU changes the fuelling so the amount of oxygen in the exhaust is 'correct' (as laid down in the fuel map).

Thus the fuelling is adapted to changes in the running condition, which could be new sensors (MAF or Oxygen), or changing atmospheric conditions, such that you might experience moving from Aberdeen to the Thames Valley.

If you wished to reset the ECU to it's start position for some reason, then you would need a Testbook, or Autologic, or Rovacom, etc, but what you have done is perfectly valid, and the poor running period is reassuring, in that it tells you that your new MAF is giving different (correct) results compared to the old one, thus justifying the spend.

Hopefully you will find both better running and increased mpg as a result.

Cheers.

Cheers David, had a horrible image in my head of being stuck in the middle of no-where due to a £30 sensor !

[am i being naive ?]

I heard that when swapping throttle position sensors on the p38 the car had to be hooked up to the testbook to reset the zero throttle position.

I swapped mine out a few days ago, and after an initial few hours of over revving and fast idling, the car appears to have sorted itself out is now idling as normal.

Can the BECM teach itself and recalibrate itself automatically, or am I just being naive and disaster is lurking just round the corner when i least expect it.

Should mention that the car is 99 with the THOR / Bosch engine.

Any assistance would be grateful.

[P38 external temperature errors]

the other day the internal temperature reading began to say that it was 60 degrees (F) when it was actually about 2 degrees (F). It seems to jump around a bit. As I drive, the temp will drop a bit, but nowhere near the actual outdoor temperature.

This is a bit of a problem, first, because I get curious about how cold it it, and secondly it throws the heat off and the auto blows freezing air into the cabin. I can get heat out by putting the temp on HI, but I'd rather have a bit more control.

any suggestions? where is this sensor located?

thanks,

Brad

Brad the for temperature sensor for 99 onwards (maybe the same for other models) is located attached to the front of the radiator. You'll need to drop the front bumper (fender) & valance on the front of the car to get access to it.

If it's anything like mine, the seal will have gone and you'll have water in the electrical connections that's causing the problem.