iceshj
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Posts posted by iceshj
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I’m converting mine to Auto. I have just purchased a D3 centre console with cooler box. Will be interesting trying to fit it but I’ve seen one done in a forum. Looked good too which is why I went for it
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My co driver/ navigator was a chap called Mark Burton - ex Royal Engineers - fits a mean kitchen and is a whizz on the maps!!! He does the nav - I just drive!!!
I would like to express my thanks to the BAMA organising team for another excellent event - if these become more popular, this will encourage more events to be run - we used to run 8-10 events a year in thier hayday run by servicemen on a whole variety of training areas and also on the public road and green lanes - all with the emphasis on navigation - I remember ROADMASTER used to be a 2.5 day event with 60 cars!!! with 130-150 miles of pure off road navigation across Salsibury Plain in mid November!!!
Speaking to a few crews on Sunday, this type of event makes a welcome change to pure off roading and challenge events and gives a chance to do some thinking aswell as some driving !!! Hope we can do some more of these - see you all at RICKSHAW RAMBLE BRAMLEY!!!
Chris Bowler
I have competed against Mark burton many times before when I was in the Navy. He has a very good track record when it comes to driving. I used to with the help of rangy rover (mark) run the ex compass rose in bovington army base. It was all bar 1 year 100% off road.
Mark and I used to spend weeks doing the recce then just before an event decide to work out a route for the comp. excellent times for some free and decent off roading. Ask mark how deep a Landy that's not waterproofed can go into a tank wash lol
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As Mark says above, this is a cracking event. We used to do all the military events ( for obvious reasons) and really enjoyed them all. It's a great chance to share some beer and conversation with the boys and girls you only ever hear about in the news.
The scrutineering is tough and in a lot of cases, so is the event..it's all done in good spirits though and the spirit of the event cup is always nice to get if you have had to sacrifice your event to assist those in peril!! Lol
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I have a problem that doesnt seem to be covered by any of the answers on here.
My indicators are fine! Hazard lights are fine with ignition on. Ignition off no hazards!
I have fitted new switch and new flasher but all remains the same. I have check permanent supply and all good. I have even run a line to the switched supply (green) and it then works. Trouble is, everything else works too when it shouldn't as the ignition is off!
My problem is that I have re-built this car from the ground up and never had an issue until the last MOT when they tested them properly. Did this problem exist when I had the first post rebuild MOT done??? did it exist before the rebuild???
I am at a loss for now. Any other help would be great. If there is an friendly auto electrician in the new forest area who would like to pop in, that would be great too
cheers
Dave
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I have an issue with my Hazard lights. With the key in the ignition and switched on, all 4 corners flash as you would expect, but remove the key/turn off ignition, then nothing happens. I have a permanent live via the purple and have also renewed the switch. I have done all the tests I can think off, so now I am here looking for some inspiration. The only hazard indicator I have is on the rocker switch itself. Is this right. It's an early 90 with a 300Tdi upgrade.
Any help would be very much appreciated
Dave
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Hi,
I'm looking at getting a raptor dash as they do look great. The question I have, is how does the CB fit in there. I have nothing with my CB that would keep it in place. Do you get a bracket of perhaps an insert like with the stereo??
cheers
Dave
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bugger, thats a shame you have a 5 door. I have some for a 3 door!!
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Welcome to the forum Martin.
Are you gonna be preparing your 3 dr disco for off road? I have some wheel arch extentions for a 3 dr when you get some money together????
regards
Dave
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On the back of my TD5 chassis, mine is similar to the picture but rather than having individual tabs like that, mine is almost like a piece of angle bar with holes deilled and welded nuts fitted.
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hi,
I have just done a rebuild onto a Galvy chassis. Brake pipes were held in place by the proper fuel clips you can buy from and landrover parts stockist. Perhaps they would fit your brake pipes too as they are quite flexible. With the loom, I re did the whole length with insulation tape and then I enclosed it in a long length of the cable tidy like this (http://direct.tesco.com/q/R.202-5905.aspx). This allows you to pull the wires out to the fuel tank etc but it quite tough stuff. I then cable tied it to the top of the chassis rails. I wouldn't advice you to route through chassis leg as the galvy inside will cut loom to bits. The MOT chap, was more than happy with my method.
Hope this helps
Dave:)
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You don't need to unbolt the seat. The seat base lifts out and the access panel is secured by a clip and then slides out forwards.
The sender unit is secured by a ring which you will need to tap round with a hammer and blunt object. The sender then lifts out of the tank.
HTH.
Mark.
Hi Mark,
I have half leather recaro seats in mine so will need to be unbolted.............. never mind, no great shakes hey. Thanks for the tips though
Dave
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Many thanks for your thoughts. I think they confirmed mine really but was hoping for an easier option before having to unbolt the seat etc LOL. I'll keep you posted on the results of this one
Regards
Dave
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Hi,
I have just done a complete chassis rebuild of my 90 and can say it flew through the MOT with praise from the MOT inspector, however that aside, I still have a few jobs to sort. The main one I really would like to sort is the fuel gauge. When I filled the tank up, the gauge only read 3/4 full. Obviously this is no good.
I think I am right in assuming the wiring is good or else I wouldn't get a reading at all. I can only think its the unit in the tank that is at fault. What are your thoughts???? Just for info, it wasn't accurate before I ripped it all apart but one of those things that slip your mind when all in bits.
Regards
Dave
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thanks western, I shall go get that today
Regards
dave
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Defender owners will just love the new Land Rover iPhone Application. Based on the advert I saw for it, "Land Rover Navigator is a free navigation application for the iPhone, but instead of showing you how to drive over the road, it shows a straight line between you and your destination. With a Land Rover Defender you can practically conquer every obstacle you come across, so there is no need for roads".
How is that for some Defender love
Check out the full advert here Likewise, had a good look on the apps and it's not there. Maybe not made it to the UK yet????
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Hi,
I am on the home run for the complete rebuild of my 90 and am about to fit the bar that fits above the windscreen frame to take the soft top. My question is "should there be a foam/rubber seal between the frame and bar?" if anyone has a picture of this it would be great.
many thanks in advance
Dave
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Is that because of how it mounts to the door, because they assume you have a tailgate or because the tub alone doesn't take the weight. I suspect it is the first.
If you have a cut down 2002 spec door (or copy the wheel mount points) I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Hi, I would suggest it's because they have a drop down tailgate as standard. I have just converted mine to a side opening door so that it can take a swing away carrier. I spotted it done on a landy at a show I went to and like the idea so much, I copied it. Very easy to do too.
Dave
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Hi, with what you have described, I would be checking the rear diff and wheel bearings. I had a similar noise and found it to be just that. All nice and quiet again now!
Regards
Dave
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Thats good info, thanks mate
Dave
Everything Dave T has said is spot on. My set up is the same as his and the spacers are fantastic and give you back valuable turning space
Dave
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Hi, The look would be the same regardless of whether you use springs or blocks. I think the issue you would have is that the dampers won't be long enough to get full articulation. You could invest in a set of -2" droppers to overcome this I guess. That would lower the top of the rear shocks by 2" this giving you max again. I'd be tempted to get longer shocks though so that you could benefit from this. Don't forget that all your doing is raising the body by 2", but the axles are still the same hight. Bigger tyres are a must when you raise the body so that the arches are filled. It also raises the whole car up thus allowing better off roading.
The Disco is already very top heavy, so by raising it, you are raising the COG and it will roll more on bends. Do you have Anti Roll Bars? These would reduce but not eliminate the roll. They do however also reduce the articulation. You need to decide what you want this car to do and how you want it to drive.
Raising it will also put your steering, so you can use castor correction bushes or cranked radius arms to sort this. Lots of people just put up with it.
If you put bigger tyres on, the two things to bear in mind, your speedo will be out of Cal and it will under-read the speed. Your gearing will all be to put. 5th will seem like an overdrive, and you will need to change gear as soon as you hit a slope. Again not a huge problem. Acceleration will be affected too!
For info, Mine is raised by 2" using springs and shockers and longer brake lines. Haven't bothered with cranked arms etc. I just put up with the not so good drive as it's great off road now!
Hope this helps
Dave
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Hi,
Having had experience of one of these, I shall give you an honest view of them.
I owned a TD6 HSE for a couple of years and I have to say I LOVED it. The only reason I got rid is that I purchased a new house and the mortgage doubled. Something had to give!!!! Gutted or what.
Anyway, down to business. The car is just pure luxury. The HSE as standard didn't come with all the goodies. The small screen and all the goodies that come with that were an expensive extra for the HSE, so most HSE's that you will see will not have it. The seats as comfortable as they are, are not quite as good as the Vogue but to be honest that is just nit picking.
The engine was a sweet diesel and performed admirably. It did lack power in some overtaking manouvers, but for everyday driving it was ample. I averaged between 25 -27mpg. Occasionally reached the 30mpg. That would give you about 450 miles from the 100ltr tank.
As far as reliability goes, I had no problems that stopped me going anywhere. I had some niggly issues such as light lenses fogging up, digits on the dash failing and rear washer not working but all were sorted by landrover bar the lenses.
I would thoroughly recommend this car to anyone. The HSE is probably a couple of grand cheaper than a Vouge of the same age and quality and would probably make the better deal unless you were desperate for all the goodies the vogue brings you. Heated rear seats i think are standard on the Vogue.
Heated Screens are standard on all too.
You will not be dissapointed with it.
Hope this helps you decide
Regards
Dave
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I have done as Disco Al says. The wires out of the lights, I have run through the inside of the lightbar, fiddly but very tidy. I then drilled a bigger hole on the inside of the left leg opposite the roof and pulled the wires out through there. A hole was drilled into the roof so that the wires could be inserted through a grommet and down the A Pillar. YOu will have to undo some of the bolts holding the roof shelf to get at the wires. Again, this is a little fiddly but well worth the effort. Internal connection are all the standard setup. Just make sure you use plenty of silicon sealant to bung the hole in the roof up. I did mine a couple of years ago and it is still more waterproof than most Disco sunroofs LOL
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My left hand indicator has become a little excitable lately, no steady tick tock that you normally get just a rapid tickticktick.
My first thought was one of the bulbs has blown and needs replacing, naturally they're all working (just quite quickly).
I cleaned up my earth connections when I had the last problem so unless they've hidden another earth has anyone any suggestions?
Hi,
I had the same issue on mine and it turned out to be a bad connection on the indicator in the bumper. One minute it was going good then another it was rapid as the connection had broken.? Just a thought
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hi dave its jonah
i have just seen your request,
i thought i would tell you there is a place called "sam's 4x4" in birmingham who deal with just series and 90. they sell brand new parts ( doors, roofs, complete cars etc..) and the doors wernt that exspensive when i wanted some.
you could give them a try if you have no look.
jonah
Cheers Jonah,
I shall give them a looksy
Regards
Dave
Check out the full advert 
Violent Steering wobble
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hello all,
im after some advise. Out of the blue, my 90 has started to get a very dangerous steering wobble for no apparent reason. It’s not even consistently happening. I’m not even touching the brake either. It starts gently and then the whole car is violently shaking all over the place. Any advise very much welcome.
regards Dave