Jamondo
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Posts posted by Jamondo
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Afternoon guys, as per the title really, I’m having some grief and confusion over front brake pipes for a vented setup conversion. Vehicles a 200tdi 90 originally, fitted with what I believe is a disco front axle, not that it should matter, and I’ve fitted vented calipers and discs, braided hoses etc, but can’t get the correct jump pipe from flex to caliper.
I ordered ANR2946 and ANR2947 from paddocks and they’re too short, they don’t meet the caliper in the right place. Pictures below.
Now I’ve spoken to Ben at paddocks and he’s telling me that I’ve ordered the wrong pipes to chassis number, fair enough, and these are for 94-98 years, but because I’ve fitted later style calipers (seb500460 and seb500470) there isn’t a pipe that will work. If those pipes are 94 onwards, and the calipers also state 94 onwards they should work?
The pipes I should have are nrc9575 and nrc7799 according to them but that is to chassis number for the original setup and I don’t think they’ll work with the vented caliper either.
Nowhere have i come across anyone else having issues with brake pipe length doing a vented swap so where’s the problem? See pictures…
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Thanks western, those are the arms I’ve got, I’ll check out the other spline option now.
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Hi all, hoping someone can help me a bit with these wipers...
fitted new wiper system to my 200tdi, cable, wheel boxes arms etc using genuine parts, but I just can’t get the wiper arms to “click” onto the splined drum properly. I have noticed the spline count in the arm is far different to the fine spline on the adapter, is this normal? Are the adapter barrels tapered? I’ve resorted to a tap with a hammer on one side and it’s firm but still not all the way home to the clip and everywhere I look Online I’m seeing to “depress clip and slide arm off” which is telling me it should slide on and click just as easily...
this is round 2 of wiper renewal as I have used aftermarket stuff in the past and found the same issues so going genuine I was hoping all would be straight forward but no such luck
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Thanks for the reply I appreciate that. I did actually convert this to 300 factory spec myself so I understand how the mounts differ in location and design etc, I guess I was just hoping to have one chassis that would work for the long term and bolt the 200 engine mounts further forward on the existing engine.
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Slightly odd question here but I have my reasons I promise... does anyone know if I can use a 200 galv chassis to replace my poorly 300 one? Will the 200 engine mounts fit the 300 block a bit further forward to allow the 300/r380 to drop onto the older style chassis and stay in the correct 300 location?
reason being, there’s a Cummins conversion in the pipeline which is far easier to carry out on 200tdi chassis/engine mount brackets than it is on the 300, but the conversion won’t happen until next year and I need a chassis now really. I’d like to rebuild it with the 300tdi for this winter then swap it out later. Last thing I want to do is cut the 300 chassis mounts off the galv and start welding the 200 mounts back in to suit the 5.9. Just not sure if there’s room towards the centre of the block to put the 200 mounts on to match up with the older style chassis.thanks in advance
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I've got one battery-chassis-transfer box, and one from engine mount bracket to chassis rail. I did build it myself though so I just went with old school thinking.
However, I've had a new battery for it this morning because I've started having slow starting symptoms, charged it up in work couple of weeks ago and it died again yesterday so wether I've also got bad ground causing charging issues? She won't start with sidelights on either, stop solenoid doesn't energise..... Green oval=headache
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I'm finding the same with amaroks at the moment, the same 2 trucks every couple of days advertised for £6k, 2013/14 highlines with all the toys, and an obviously spam listing. Email address to contact is always tracey@rafmod.co.uk. Boils my blood!
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A bit of background to this one, I've got an ex-discovery 300 egr engine in my defender, all mounted up in the factory position and I've decided to time it "properly". Rave suggests the plunger lift for egr is 1.40mm @ tdc, which mine was thereabouts, and 1.54mm for non-egr. Last night the dti kit came out and I advanced mine to the suggested non-egr 1.54mm now the egr system is all removed. Quick blast around last night and I did seem sharper under foot with a touch more diesel knock as expected.
Started it up from cold this afternoon and attempted to pull up my drive and she wouldn't have it. It needed a good half throttle and a bit of clutch slip to get moving. Any ideas people? Timing was checked three times before I accepted it was bang on, so I know it's right and I don't really want to retard it back to 1.40 now it is essentially a "non-egr" engine.
Thanks in advance. -
For road work id say td5, for reliability possibly go with 300tdi. From what I've heard, the earlier td5 engines, which a 2000 would be, have been known to be troublesome with things like cracked heads and injector wiring look faults. Possibly looking at your budget you'd get a better tidier 300.
Just my thoughts anyway.
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Ha ha I know exactly what you mean. I am pretty handy with wires to be honest, slight occupational hazard of working on HGVs, but that said I won't be bothering with electrics in the doors. Just wanting to retain the heated rear window and wash/wipe. I'll keep eyes peeled as it's coming to the point of gathering the essentials. Heard some pretty bad reports about ashtree bulkheads lately so that's thrown a spanner in the works. May go down the cut and re-weld route and send for galv myself I think.
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As I suspected. Thanks Scott. So I take it there won't be any compatibility issues if I change all 3 then? Had a quick poke around on auto sparks site and they're bulkhead/main loom for 300 defender is nearly £600!!! Keep trawling the eBay pages I guess.
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Right guys and girls, after more advice, this time with wiring looms. some of you will wonder why I've gone to so much trouble, and sometimes I wonder myself but hey ho it's done now.
My defender used to be a 200, and the previous owner/cowboy put a 300 in it and cut many many corners in the process. I rebuilt the engine because she was poorly, and then slowly I've converted it fully, using def r380, seat box, tunnel, props etc etc, but it's getting to the point now of going down the re-chassis and new bulkhead route. Obviously this means a full a strip down and rebuild but I'm wondering if it's worth converting the electrics all over to def 300 looms.
Is it fairly straight forward to swap to the later bulkhead main and chassis wiring or should I just repair and overhaul what I've got and stick with the bullet connectors? My existing fuse box is already a blade type. This also leaves me wondering if there's any massive differences in 200/300 bulkheads?
Thanks in advance
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I'll think I'll leave well enough then. Cheers western. Right I'm off to start another topic seeking yet more advice ??
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Thanks guys. Mine also does have a cutout at the vertical section against the bulkhead for the pedal stop, but looking at it this morning it's actually under the pedal itself that's causing the problem. Perhaps it's just the bulk of the matting that's causing it.
If I hold the pedal down then adjust the cable up to full throttle on the pump, it's ends up idling at around 800rpm (ish).
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Oh so maybe a hole in the mats is the official answer then?
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Quite right, it's another possibility. I just wasn't sure if there was different pedals fitted to say county's? With more matting? I always like to try and find a 'factory ish' solution before I go bending stuff. Although it usually ends up with bending and welding and lots of hammering anyway lol
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Hi all, I've recently fitted some rubber mats and a one piece tunnel cover thingy, which now means I can't get full throttle. Simple solutions include things like cutting a hole in the mats to allow the pedal to travel further, increase cable tension at idle etc etc but has anyone else ever come across this? They are all genuine Land Rover mats by the way. It's almost like I need to increase the ratio between pedal travel and pump linkage??
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My apologies Mo, I completely missed your post up there, I was on a breakdown till 4 this morning and then cracked on with Landy jobs today lol. to be fair, that's exactly what I've done with it and it feels good so far.
As western says, the old system worked perfectly well and I could make this the same just by drilling a hole and welding an M8 plain nut to the box but there must be an updated method the change of design somewhere... Who knows why!
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I know, I didn't realize either until I came to fit it yesterday to my 200tdi.
I've got it all in and got a good pedal there but it's a right head bender to understand the actual correct method for this one, and I would like to set it up properly really.
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Yeah that's my confusion, I've got a workshop manual for pre-tdci, but this 2010 pedal is a different setup to the earlier ones. The end stop bolt isn't for setting pedal height as its mounted below the pivot point. It's literally there to set how far away from the bulkhead the pedal stops when pressed down.
On that basis, the pedal height seems to be pre-set, and the travel stop bolt just limits the overall stroke of the pedal regardless of whether the system is bled or not.
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Straight ahead I set mine too, never worn a tyre yet. My tracking gauges aren't the most technical laser jobbies, just the old periscope type but it's been like that for 5 years so far.
I sometimes get bored of tyres and fancy a change, but I just can't kill them so the tracking can't be far off!
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Thanks western, this is the confusing thing about it, the travel stop bolt is in contact with the pedal when in the down position, so the overall travel of the stroke can be adjusted using this limit screw, or the locknuts, or both, ohhhh my head hurts with it all now.....
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Hey all,
I've just fitted a new clutch pedal assembly to my 90, which has been taken from a 2010 vehicle. It's all bled up and working, but I've got a couple of teething problems I could do with help on.
I'm used to setting pedal heights and pushrod clearances etc on normal defender pedals, but this new one doesn't have a pedal height set screw in the back. Instead it has a travel limiting stop screw at the bottom of the pedal box. There seems to be limited info online about this latest setup, but from what I can gather, the pedal height is now to be adjusted using just the pushrod lock nuts. That in itself is fine and straight forward, but in doing that, there isn't any way at all to set the 1.5mm pushrod clearance. The spring force of the pedal will therefore mean the pushrod is held/pulled firmly out, as far away from the master cylinder piston as possible??
Has anyone had to set one of these dam things up and can clear up the "grey area" for me?
Thanks in advance,
James
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That's great thanks for the info, I didnt expect it to be quite so straight forward with all the data protection carp out there. Obviously private owners doesn't really mean a lot to anyone, but if there's any working history behind it, it could be interesting.
Vented brake parts giving me trouble
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Paul C, had a look at the later style bracket which incorporates the abs sensor cable slot, I reckon you’ve nailed it there, that definitely shoves the pipe further back than the old style one I have