[How did you guys get your transfer boxes back?]

Thanks guys, I wrote a thread "installing my Ashcroft ATB" describing how I got the sod back into the car, basically I bolted a 1/4" thick alloy plate onto my little trolley jack, strapped the box onto it and lifted it that way.

Regarding Les Hansons comment yes, I used the three M10 x 1.5 - 150mm long studs and found that on the Disco you have to cut them back to about 1/4' longer than the R380 output shaft - no longer or the PTO section of the box hits the underside of the car, I thnk Les said that he slotted hois for a screwdriver, I ground flats on mine for an 8mm spanner.

My box did not have studs - it only had bolts. The only stud was on the R380, top RH. My guess is that the studs would be a good idea to prevent long bolts being screwed into the box and impinging on the gears, if I ever have to take it out again I'll look at fitting studs, it sounds a good idea and would save sleepless nights wondering if the right length bolts had been installed.

I was quoted AUD$1250.00 labour to remove, install the Ashcroft differential and reinstall, that price didn't include any parts required, new bearings, seals etc. I acquired a new 12 tonne hydraulic press complete with two boxed sets of mandrills, for AUD$245.00 a full set of Timken bearings and seals set me back AUD$350 (thanks to EJ for the bearings and seal numbers) and I used a bar of brass that I had in the man shed to turn and mill it to reproduce the special measuring tools needed to set the bearing preloads. It was only after I had installed it that I found that I could have purchased a transmission trolley jack from Supercheap Auto for AUD$450 had I purchased it I would still have been well ahead of the quoted price and I know that it's been installed correctly

Hi Boydie,

I have a question, so how long are studs you put in the gearbox after you cut them a 1/4" short?

I have the same issue, removing the lt230 and then I need to put it all aligned and the studs are a perfect idea...but in which lenght?

best,

ricardo

[300 tdi boost pin]

I have deactivated the entire boost compensation thing; remove the star screw and fit a long m8 fine screw instead. Wind the screw in all the way in so the pin gets jammed in 'max fuel mode'. This means that now the fuel delivery only depends on throttle position and RPM, and turbo boost does not have any influence. This has improved the pickup enormously. Bear in mind that I have not touched the top end fuel delivery so max power is still as per standard. This way, there is virtually no smoke, just a puff when you floor it in 5th gear at 30 mph.

I ran it for 10 years this way.

Daan

Hi Daan,

Can you be more specific on how to do that, please?

best,

ricardo

[300tdi turbo mods]

hi all,

can you post some pics about the mod?

since I'm portuguese I get a little lost just reading and trying to do...some pics?

thanks,

ricardo