Zeph
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Posts posted by Zeph
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Well it's all done !
It seemed that the union was seized on the high pressure pipe to the power steering pump so I tightened it on to the pump before fitting to the engine and managed to bend the pipe so it would seat properly (I will be getting a new pipe fitted in the near future).
The only other problem I had was the Thermostat housing plug sheared, but I managed to remove the remnants and replace with a radiator blank/valve.
Thanks
Steve
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Hi,
Sorry for the stupid question, but is there a method to attaching the high pressure power steering pipe to the pump, no matter what way I try I always end up with the pipe twisting whilst tightening.
The good news is that once this is done I'm back on the road !!!!!
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yeah it was to do the P gasket, the bolts wouldn't move and started to round off so I bought some bolt removers and whacked them on with a lump hammer, also used a blow torch at one point.
The pulley still moves but only just by hand.
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Sorry, 1995 300tdi
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Hi,
After weeks of grazed knuckles I have managed to remove the p/s pulley bolts, but have noticed that the pulley doesn't seem
to move as freely as it did.
I used Irwin bolt removers as I had rounded the bolts, and as the removers are not a perfect fit
they had to be persuaded on with a hammer, is it possible that I have ruined the bearing in
the pump ?
It's taken me a few weeks due to lack of time due to the birth of a new baby plus lack of proper tools so I'm not 100%
sure whether it was like this when I started the job.
Any help would be appreciated as I don't want to put it all back together and then have to do it all again.
Thanks
Steve
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Well the bolt removers turned up today, and I picked up a strap wrench from maplins to hold the pulley.
Still no joy though, the bolt removers are a fair bit smaller than the rounded bolts and with the fan and cowling still
attached theres not enough room to whack it with a hammer.
So I'm going to order new bolts for the pulley and a fan spanner.
I'll probably have to wait until after the baby's born to try again though (she was due a week last Wednesday, the missus is being induced on Monday)
thanks again for all the replies
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Well ordered the bolt removers from Amazon today and got an email saying delivery by the 5th of August
I should have read terms before ordering.
Anyway I'm going to clean the intercooler whilst i'm waiting.
Thanks for all the replies
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I've got the full set of Irwin removal tools. Apart from the name, they appear to be identical to the Snap On set that a mate has - but about a 1/4 of the price.
I've used them in anger a number of times now and can honestly say they are brilliant. They are impact rated if you need it too.
You may need to gently persuade them onto the fitting with a hammer to get them started, but I've not failed to undo something with them.
Matt
Cheers !
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lashings of WD40 / Easol / any good penertrating fluids a few times and give it time to soak in and do its job etc etc and a decent 6point socket
Dougie
Hi,
Thanks for the reply,
I've soaked the bolts with plusgas overnight and still no joy, I tried hammering on a 3/8 socket and managed to break 2 sockets.
I'm going to buy some Irwin bolt removers and give them a try, has anyone used them ?
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Hi,
I have a 300tdi which developed a bad leak near the waterpump the other day, on closer inspection it seems to be coming
from the P gasket.
So following the thread in the technical archive I set about doing the job myself.
Firstly I struggled to remove the bolts from the water pump pulley (the belt tension wasn't enough to hold it) I then went on
to the power steering pulley, but the bolts wont move (i've heated the bolts with a blowtorch) and they have started to round off .
Anyone any suggestions ?
Also can the fan be removed easily without the belt being attached ?
Any help would be appreciated, thanks
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Cheers guys,
I've ordered all the parts, so should be able to get started Tuesday or Wednesday.
I'll let you know how I get on
regards
Steve
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Just to make sure, the pipe im looking for is 3/16 af ? (1995 300 tdi)
Ebay have a kit with everything for about £30
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Cheers Les,
Your guides in the Tech achive have already saved me a few quid (the garage wanted £80 to fit the rear droplinks, as the nuts were seized).
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Costs so far:
Sills £60
Welding £100
Drop Links £15
Exhaust £40
2 Mot's £90
Frront Brake Pipes both sides ??????
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Brake pipes, or brake hoses?
Les.
The fail sheet says
nearside / Offside front brake pipe(s) excessively corroded
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Hi,
My 1995 300 tdi failed it's mot a few weeks ago on the usual outer sills / rear drop links and the exhaust.
Today after finally getting the work done I put it in at a different MOT station and it failed on the front brake pipes and a corroded rear disc (neither were mentioned on the previous fail).
So is replacing the pipes an easy DIY job ?
Has anyone done this themselves ?
Thanks in advance
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Update !
The garage were not able to undo the nuts , he said they need to be burnt out but his oxy-acet wasn't working, my problem now is the car is booked in for new sills and an mot retest on monday at a different garage (this guy wants £80 to burn out 3 bolts + the £150 to weld on the sill repair panels) so things aren't looking too good.
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Well I've admitted defeat !
I managed to remove one of the castle nuts on one of the links, but the bottom 24mm bolt wont budge, (using 2 1 meter strong arms one on each side i even used a jack), on the other joint the castle nut started to turn along with the theaded part so I gave up.
The garage is charging £20 to remove and fit the links tomorrow.
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Welcome
What I usually do is get a set of wire cutters (or the wire-cutting part on a big pair of pliers) get a good grip on one end or the other and just force it through the hole. If all else fails you can usually use brute force to twist the nut off and snap the pin but it will often wreck the thread - shouldn't be a problem if it is heading for the dump anyway!
Thanks for the reply,
I'll give it a go tomorrow
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Hi,
I have a 1995 300tdi which recently failed it's MOT on the outer sills and the rear sway bar ball joint links.
I bought the ball joint links to fit myself as it looked like an easy job, however whilst trying to remove the cotter pins the end broke whilst trying to straighten the pins and now wont budge, has anyone got any ideas how i can get the bolt off
Thanks
Removing rounded bolt...
in Discovery Forum
Posted
+1 from me, I ended up using Irwin extractors and a strap wrench to hold the pulley