[td5 ECU not connecting to Nanocom]

Hi kingrat

Silly question - you have entered all your access codes ?

I would guess that your power supply at the cars terminal is OK - or you would not get any readout on the Nanocom - it would not light up at all.

Question for Porny , please.

My Nanocom , bought about 6 months ago , works fine rxcept does not like accessing the SLABS ECU . Has addessed it a few times , but other times just refuses. Any abvious thing I could be doing wrong ?

Cheers Dave

[Disco Td5 cold starting troubles]

Sounds very similar to a problem I had with my 300tdi. Loads of charge in the battery but often slow to turn over especially in the cold weather. I read somewhere on this forum about poor earths so for a few pounds I added an extra earth lead to the engine block from the battery and hey presto , it spins over a treat even in the recent cold snap. No idea whether TD5's have the same problem but might be worth a try.

Jules

Excellent advice. In my opinion the TD5 is even more sensitive than the Tdi to poor earthing. Amongst the many side effects of poor engine block earthing is radiator corrosion - every time the car is started some of the starter current can find its way to earth via radiator coolant and radiator itself - leading to radiator corrosion damage.

Dave

[Going to 18" Disco or Range Rover Rims on my D2]

Why do you want 18s? Much poorer selection of tyres than 16s, and mostly more expensive. Rougher ride too but the roads on Asi are mostly tarmac from what I remember last time I was there so I guess that is less of an issue than here

AFAIK any of the alloys from the P38 RR will fit and I would guess the backspacing would be the same or similar as LR usually don't mess about with that sort of thing.

As far as I know the D2 rims are not compatible with any other Land Rover . Best bet would be BMW rims which will fit .

I also question why you would want to go bigger ? Only advantage is looks (maybe ? ) and high speed cornering (in a Disco TD5) .

Off road the bigger rims are a step backwards ...

Cheers Dave

[Discovery TD5 Misfire - SOLVED]

Hi all,

Thought it might be helpful to record my misfire problem and solution.

The 2001 Discovery II TD5, 80k miles, with a fsh started 'misfiring' under load and above about 2,500 RPM. Of course being a diesel misfire is not the correct term - but it ran rough and would not pull, seemed short on power. The problem was only apparent under load, when accelerating hard, or uphill and only when revs got beyond 2,500 or so, although this varied a little between 2,500 and about 2,900.

The injector harness has been changed for a new one with improved sealing.

No problems starting, idling or driving gently about town or up to about 65mph so long as acceleration is gentle.

A dealer check showed no fault codes, although the air flow was a little low so they swapped out a MAF meter, no improvement, so they put the old one back in free ( amazing)

After lots of searching on the internet I cam up with a long list and started at with the simplest and cheapest items.

Step 1) Checked red plug on ECU, still some oil despite injector harness change, must be residual oil in engine harness, cleaned it out, no improvement

Step 2) Checked other end of harness where new injector harness plugs into engine harness, no oil

step 3) Removed turbo heat shield and disconnected wastegate actuator rod, found wastegate to be very stiff. It freed up easily with some oil, replaced everything and problem solved - its great to have full power back.

It seems as if the wastegate was not opening under heavy load, so boost pressure was geeting too high and so the ECU was shutting down fuelling to protect the engine, hence the rough running and poor performance.

My lesson learned is that the misfire did not appear to be the same cylinder as it was more random than that, and it must have been a general lack of fuel for an instant.

Hope this helps someone with a similar problem.

Rob K

Rob

Good info . Thanks . I have taken the liberty to reproduce your info on a South African website ,Landyonline My link

What your experience reminds us is that the turbo is the secret to a lot of the performance issues with a turbo diesel. A turbo boost gauge has to be one of the easiest and most beneficial mods to a TD - and we should all have one !

Cheers Dave

[Centre difflock on D2]

Also the clever electronics on the D2 turn off the Traction Control when you engage centre diff lock. AFAIK the Ashcroft kit keeps the TC turned on while in diff lock, which is a massive benefit. You'll even have a diff lock warning light on your dash.

It would be major hassle to use the D1 system, with custom brackets required, modifications to the shifter and tunnel/trim.

Someone else will confirm, but I think the 1999 - 2002 cars have the diff lock mech still in the gearbox, then no diff lock 2002 - 2004, and finally actual manual diff lock was reinstated in 2004.

The cheap skate alternative is to lie under your D2 and use a spanner to engage the diff lock manually. Apparently if you do this with the ignition off, then start the car then you'll fool the system into keeping the TC on, but I'm yet to give this a try.

From early 2001 the diff lock mechanism was dropped until 2004.

With a pre 2001 Disco 2 , the difflock warning light is installed operational . That is if the diff is locked , even with a 10 mm spanner , the light will indicate.

With these models , if the car is started before the diff is locked , TC will stay operational. Otherwise it will trip and the 3 amigos light up. They reset if the car is restarted with the diff unlocked.

It is a useful function being able to trip the TC if required. General consensus in South Africa is that TC is a serious no-no in sand - but I guess not much of that in the UK ?

Dave

[Air getting in the fuel system]

Td5 2002 Defender 90, air getting into the fuel system, loosing presure & hard to start, fuel pump renewed & still noisy, any ideas ?

Possibly copper seals/washers on the injectors. If these are leaking the return fuel flow will carry gas bubbles from exhaust gases.

A leak in fuel lines / filters will not induce gases - these lines are under pressure - they blow not suck !

It could of course simply be a case that your pump is on its way out

Dave

[Problems with 235/85 16]

Thank you all!

So if I understand it right, there is no problem, execpt that you loose acc and meaby have to change gear more often?

But gearbox and transfer should be fine!

But how about driving in sand, I have read that you need good acc to get out of the deep sand, anyone how have give it a try?

The bigger tyre will be excellent in sand. I run 265/75 16's on my Disco 2 . Any acceleration loss is more than compensated for by extra tyre flotation in sand. In any case ,select the right gear and acceleration is not impaired. Just learn to drive a little differently. The gearing effect is definitely there - not all bad news though. Towing ability , in my opinion , actually improves : It is a good idea to spend a lot of time in 4th gear rather than 5 th when towing (to protect the gearbox). With the bigger tyres the car will be happier in 4 th in any case .

The combination of larger tyres and suspension lift (I have OME on my D2 - extra 2 " lift) will put extra strain on the Rotoflex coupling on the Disco. Best carry a spare coupling , or convert it to a U joint as I did ,after I damaged my 3 rd Rotoflex in 5000 km.

Cheers Dave

[TD5 Turbo Boost]

I have a Jeremy fearn ecu and intercooler upgrade on my diso 2, its a 2001, and the kit has been on since 2003, it runs as sweet as a nut, but most of the power increase comes in the mid range, I am just about to replace the centre box with a straight pipe, which hopfuly will let the turbo spool quicker for a bit more out of the blocks power, can anyone confirm that?

Removing the centre box definitely improves matters - not a vast improvement , but noticeable.

Dave

[Newbie from South Africa]

Hello PretDave, nice to see you here....

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the "Tropical Conversion"??

Hi Jim

Closure of the bypass hole between the top and bottom of the radiator ?

Cheers Dave

[Newbie from South Africa]

I would suggest you throw away the useless LR temp gauge and fit a VDO gauge and sender. These are available from Diesel Electric in Wynberg Jhb or you could get one from Landyonline.co.za

The fact that you can drive around all day without the temp gauge moving is because it is designed to read 'in the middle' from 40° to 100+°C. The VDO gauge will move up and down all the time to show you an exact temperature.

There is no real way of testing a 300Tdi viscous fan, though the chances are that yours has had it after 330k kms. Look at the front of the viscous unit where the coiled spring is. If there is oil, or oil covered in dust or dirt there, it is time to get a new one.

For spares I would suggest CCA in Alberton or Kya Sands Randburg, or Dover in Selby depending on where you live.

Other tips are to fit a Coolant Level Detector (if you don't have one) and to get rid of the black tank if it hasn't split already. The white replacement tanks never split.

Best of luck Jim

Hi Jim

Is this not a case for the "Tropical Conversion" ?

Regards

Dave

[Dishearten Land Rover Owner]

Bloubull has obviously been disappointed , but for non South African members it should be noted that the R8 000 rebuild job converts to about 500 Pounds Sterling - puts it into context.

Cheers Dave

[Water in footwell]

I have just had the same issue of wet carpets with my Disco TD5.

It does not lose coolant - so this eliminated the heater matrix leak as the problem.

Turned out to be the air conditioner drain plugs near bell housing.

Cheers Dave

[TD5 Airflow Sensor]

IIRC there are two wires .

Cheers Dave

[removal of front silencer]

I have removed the front silencer on my Disco TD5. Fruitier sound , more noticeable outside than inside, and a small but drfinite power increase at low revs - the turbo spins up a little bit earlier.

Dont know about UK legislation - no problemsin SA.

Cheers Dave