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richp110

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Posts posted by richp110

  1. Pferd, senator, bahco, sandvik, kennedy, vallorbe

    Theres sometimes new old stock paper wrapped files that appear on ebay. Anything old and British made will be good.

    And just because I like tools - heres some file making information. 

     

    If youre anywhere near sheffield go to MA tooling in attercliffe for an alladins cave of quality files. (Ignore the chinese stuff they also have)

     

  2. I have been searching for an affordable one for years!
    Was dropping off some scrap at scrapyard and one came tumbling out of a skip being emptied. (repaired dc control box)
    Make sure you have an earth that rubs on the chuck/platter or shaft.

    I considered hydraulic motor before I found this one.

    Your start looks good!

  3. Hello all, I was also in the same position looking for an affordable bead former and I came across this idea on a hotrod forum i think it was. I suppose it would be possible to make a die holder that would allow a variety of tube sizes to be accomodated. However for a 50p carboot set of mole grips and a lunch break (extended) ;) to make them its much cheaper than the commercial variants.

    I would reccomend including a backstop into the u section like I have (so the bead is concentric). adding a locknut onto the pressure adjuster part of the mole grips ensures the same extent of push - thus a uniform bead. I used a thick washer to make the former that pushes onto the tube from the inside and a holesaw to make the die and a lump of boxsection.

    Steel tubing needs to be annealed first, as does alu tube (fairy liquid rubbed on before heating - when it goes black its roughly right temp, theres many other techniques such as a sooty stick and temp indicator pens etcetc) within the scope of a gas hob or camping stove.

    IMG-20120708-00733.jpg

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  4. This has driven me up the wall for a few hours today-

    I have a 300tdi sitting on my bench ready for a new clutch and timing belt.

    I absoultely cannot shift the 27mm af bolt from the end of the crank without the engine turning over.

    I have tried with a hand impact wrench and a home made locking device using the 4 holes in the damper (strangely the holes in the damper are not tapped at all?!).

    Next plan - would this work? -

    I thought about welding some scrap bar to a worn out clutch cover (then fitting to flywheel) and then welding the bar to the bench temporarily and strapping the engine mounts to the bench too.

    suggestions please?

  5. hello all.

    I'm having real bother getting a problem Ive got sorted.

    I was driving home a few weeks ago and as I pulled off a slip road the engine started running rough (I put my foot down and nothing happened) I managed to get to a nearby carpark and got towed home.

    Now I’ve got time to work on it I still can’t seem to sort it.

    1.takes a little while longer to start

    2.once started it runs ok

    3.until I drive a little way or apply the throttle – then the engine starts surging (revs falling then rising)

    4.I noticed today that when I turn off the engine it sounds like I can hear diesel running back into the tank (or perhaps air gurgling in)

    I have checked all fuel lines and hose clamps and replaced some lengths of fuel pipe for piece of mind.

    Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Rich

  6. hello all.

    viewed from the rear, my series 3 leans to the right quite a bit.

    could this be the springs have been installed on the wrong side?

    any input appreciated!

  7. Well, tried the sand method with an offcut of tube. Tamped it down in layers, capped it off and dented in the caps.

    Bent at a shallow angle the same as an empty tube. As the angle increased the tube just folded up. :( I think for that method to work you need to really compress the sand hard. Even after my tamping efforts I could hear the sand if I shook the tube. :(

    Anyhow, I have managed to bend the tubes I needed to with absolutely no distortion as the angle was so shallow. :rolleyes:

    Just the "X" in the roof to do and the rear stays and I am done. :rolleyes:

    I have acheived a good bend by mixing water with sand and pouring it into the tube - the sand eventually displaces all the water making it well compacted.

    see this video - (not me but you get the idea)

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