Burko_uk
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Posts posted by Burko_uk
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Try Hellermann Tyton. They do loads of cable installation stuff - clips, clamps, protection. Rayfast do cable protection to. Most can be sourced through RS-online
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You can also take the steering wheel off and re-fit it a couple of splines around the shaft (mark the wheel and shaft before removal). Extend the drag link too much and it's not as structurally sound. Plus if it's been on for a while you will struggle to undo the ends from the shaft anyway.
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The difference is the angle the motor is bolted onto the bulkhead at, and thus the shaft and tube that comes off it. But if you buy the motor on it's own they are all the same.
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Make sure you spec the pipes correctly else the system will be powerless.
Also make sure the motor is fitted with an overcentre valve for braking
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My series had this and it was the join between the roof panel and the gutter, and was almost imposible to seal as you cannot really get at the joint on the inside, and sealing it on the outside just blocked the gutter up.
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Or just swapped the motor over...
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In what way is it not staying in a straight line? Is the car drifting about or are you holding the wheel straight ahead and the car always drifts off one dirction?
The suspension and steering geometry is not perfect on a LR, and lifting it makes it worse meaning that wheels straight ahead is not quite steering wheel straight ahead, if you leave everything else alone.
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Road surface?
Seriously - I keep bricking myself that somethings falling apart, only to drive on a different road and find everything is fine. I've learnt on my commute to work where to be worried and where to expect rumblings.
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This shouldn't be down to the transfer ratios. Generally you are limited by the engines power, rather than the ratios, and even with a 1.6 you should get more than forty.
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Electric heaters ar a waste of time, you don't generate enough electricity in the vehicle to then generate enough heat to be worth the bother.
I fitted a Webasto and timer, and that is great at warming the truck up before getting in. New it's about £1500(!!!! - not that great) but he unit is used in lots of cars as a standard auxillary heater and can be found from scrap yards and auction sites for about £100-£150.
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Is there any news on spectator access? I heard Walters can be funny about people watching
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I had this rant last year. I'm bored of saying it. But I'm going to say it again.
Salisbury Plain is not that hard to navigate over. If you can't cope with the navigation needed, don't drive there. I accept we all make mistakes now and again, but I have seen various groups taking routes that are clearly wrong, and not Byways. I was partuclarly impressed by the group of eight or so (sadly) Land Rovers on Saturday crossing a major A road, from one Restricted Byway to another. Even if they had made a mistake and were one track over from where they thought they were, they should never have crossed the road. They should also perhaps have given way to the the traffic doing the NSL (and on that stretch often much more than NSL) on the A-Road rather than just driving across and relying on other drivers to do emergency stops to avoid them.
There was another chap earlier in the week who was just driving whereever the hell he liked - rights of way, tracks that weren't rights of way, and at one point just struck out across the grass.
What is the excuse? A number of RoWs have changed in the last year or so, but most have been upgraded to Byways, rather than downgraded. Wiltshire CC have an excellent online map showing rights of ways, and list all the TROs. And WCC and the MOD have been out and signposted every junction, so even if your navigation is useless you just follow the signs. Even the presence of the wardens and the police cruising round the lanes (never seen so many of them as I have this holiday break) doesn't stop it.
Does anyone know what else can be done? I'm amazed that WCC haven't closed the Stonehenge Byways when there is so much flagrant abuse going on. I can't help but feel that at some point the MOD is just going to close it all.
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Just get the bulkhead if you are sticking with the LT77. The TD5 floors etc area different to the LT77 and the gearsticks come up in a different place. The TD5 bulkhead will go on with very little work - there is one (pretty big) hole in the passenger footwell that needs filling and you need to do some work if you want to refit the earlier trucks windscreen wiper (I got a furnished bulkhead so kept the TD5 motor).
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Try SolidEdge - they were giving a completly free, full function 2D package for download. You then have the option to buy the add on to go 3D if you wish.
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a tin of Plus Gas pentrating oil which is superior to WD40 any day.
Seconded - plus gas is magic! Second place goes to 3 in 1 penetrating fluid. I also prefer 3 in 1 aerosol for cleaning little bits as it seems to leave an oily residue, unlike wd40 which cleans off everything and lets the rust set in quicker.
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All the series heaters I have see working appears to me very weak.
Under the seat it seems a very good idea but I don’t have an LWB and all the space to storage things I can have inside is important.
I’m thinking build a cardboard prototype to check if fit under the wing.
Also I need your opinion to connect the webasto pipe… before the filter?
How about under the middle seat? I've not seen sucha aheater in the fleash, but under the centre seat is fairly spacious. I'm planning a second heater unit in that space on my D90
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I made my own bushwacka, which worked well, until the bush ws almost home, at which point the outer tube curled over all the way round - making the outer tube rather funnel like! Nightmare. Luckily I only had one to do, and the truck isn't road going. I have polys on their way!
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Hydraulic winch (if it ever arrives) on the Series 3, then tub sliders and drop shackles.
Handbrake cable and rear door seal on the defender, then new shocks on the front axle and a pair of kenlowes. Plus some new interior lights... yeah typical landie, a never ending list!
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Surely if the water can get in during a dunking then the oil will dribble out over time anyway? I can say from experience that if the swivel seal is worn not fited well then it'll leak with grease in there!
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As I understand it, the deflex ones do not have a praticularly reliable consistancy in the polyeurethane used, so some bushes/batches of bushes are fine and others just fall apart. I've not heard many people praise them. I've stuck with Polybush for mine, and all good so far.
As for towing, it depends on the stiffness of the bush - polybush allow you to reliably pick the stiffness with the three different sets they offer.
Tedious
in Getting out and about
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Yeah, the chap on his own was in a fairly basic Discovery, along with three mates, all of whom (rightly or wrongly) I would have crossed the street to avoid. Reported him via plain watch, but I doubt that will have much effect.