Skanny
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Posts posted by Skanny
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Thanks for the link, I too am at a loss as to how it ended up here.
Maybe in the early days when the pound was stronger it may have been more cost effective to import a transfer box from the states than to by one locally?????
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Im sure there are no wires coming from that end of things and i have seen hundreds of D2 transfer boxes , from early through to late, manuals and autos and I have never seen one like this before, the instant i saw it i thought 'what the hell is that!'
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Ooooooh a rairity then!
Interlock solonoid????? is that a kind of electronic engaging diff lock?
I dont appear to have any additional plugs so im assuming that there is nothing inside there???
Thanks
Colin
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Hi Folks,
I have removed this gearbox and transfer box setup from a manual 2001 Discovery 2 Td5.
I have never seen the bit circled in yellow before on any of the D2 Transfer boxes that we have removed.
Its a 41D prefix box with Diff lock sliggot present. I notice it has fresh gasket sealer round the rear most casing on the box and also under thie raised circular casting on the top of the box.
Any ideas??????
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Hi guys
I am looking to find out if i can get say 3 or 4 keyfobs that will all work with my one vehicle?
I currently ony have 1 that works, can they be copied?
Its a work vehicle and i am sick of 'someone' miplacing the keys so we all need out own set including the keyfob to operate the remote and immobiliser.
Many thanks
Skanny
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Guys,
Through my line of work i'm getting more and more fammiliar with the td5 engined discoveries and im quite fancying one myself as my daily drive.
Im torn between an auto and a manual and im asking for your opinions on both.
In my experience there are pros and cons for both
Manual
Pros
Cheaper replacement parts
no expensive ECu to go wrong
uses less fuel
no oil cooler pipes and cooler to maintain / replace
quicker accelleration
No expensive torque convertor to replace
can bump start if required.
Cons
More involved drive
more prone to abuse by previous owners through rough gear changing etc
clutch wear / replacement.
Auto box
Pros
Lazy driving style
Cons
lots of expensive bits to go wrong/replace
needs additional cooling / pipework
cant bump start if required
What would you go for given a choice?
Thanks
Colin
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Thanks fellas!
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Guys,
I have taken the sleder out of the front of the front propshaft and it pulled out by hand no problem.
Getting it back in...............
I can just about get it started in the splines then it wont go any further,
I knocked it in with the hammer a few centimeters and it was well tight, i had to knock it back out with the hammer.
I removed the grease nipple and it made no difference second time round.
is there a specific way the splines are supposed to line up?
Many thanks
Mr frustrated!
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Fellas,
Im putting a new IRD into a freelander and the cooling pipes on the new unit (second hand new!) are damaged, how can they be replaced, i cant see how they come out the side of the IRD unit?
Any pointers, much appreciated.
Thanks
Colin
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These were fited to ES 'premium' models only.
rumour has it that you cant buy a set from land rover unless you have the chassis number or logbook to prove you own an ES 'premium' model!
Given that land rover dealers will be twiddling their thumbs at the moment it seems a bit daft if they wont sell you something
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Happy new year guys,
I have just bought my first posh breaker!
A 2004 Vogue and i need o get the box out tomorrow! Any ideas on best place to start with it? If its easier to drop the whole lot 9engine and gearboxes then i will do that as its all going to be broken anyway.
Many thanks
Colin
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Hello again
Now sorted thanks.
So what was the problem?
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We had a similar issue with a 300tdi, It turned out to be sucking air into a perished fuel line.
To drain the tank remove the boot carpet, remove the (probably rusty) screys secuting the cover plate and then undo the fuel line unions without snapping the metal pipes coming out of the sender unit. get a hammer and chisel and knock the black ribbed collar round anticlockwise, then lift out the sender.
Bit of hose pipe and suck!
Another thing that can cause these symptoms is air getting in through badly pitted and rusted metal pipes that exit the top of the fuel sender unit, check to see if there is any diesel staining around them before you disconnect them.
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Guys,
I have bought a disco that has had a heavy O/S front impact and it had shoved the axle back a bit.
The resulting backwards shove of the axle has pushed the prop back and it has alsp pushed the transfer box back and it has snapped off 2 of the mounting hole lugs on the back of the LT77 box as circled in the picture. (picture is a library picture and not my gearbox)
The gearbox is a genuine land rover replacement item with the land rover approved replacement item id tag on the bellhousing and is in very new looking condition so hence i think it may be worth repairing.
Can anyone confirm if the silver rearmost casting on the above picture is available as a spare part, and how big a job is it to swap that bit of casting.
Oh by the way the only gearbox i have ever peered inside was a ford type 9, and all i did was peer inside and quickly close the top and say ' well that looks complicated in there!'
Thanks
Colin
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Can anyone confirm if the auto gearbox on the V8s is the same as that fitted to the TD5 engine, excluding the bellhousing.
I.e are the ratios the same and can i fit a G box from a v8 into my Td5?
Thanks
Colin
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I have just had a flood damaged td4 in.
I took the glow plugs out and wound it over with the injectors unplugged and i had liquid coming out of the heater plug holes on 1 and 4.
I dropped the oil to see if there was any water contamination and to my surprise i got a good 15 yes fifteen liters of liquid come out of the sump!
It was incredibly thin and im sure its more than 70% diesel.
How can this have got into the sump?
I refilled with fresh oil and it wont start, it turns over fine but no start.
Any ideas?
thanks
Colin
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Hi Fellas,
I need to remoe the IRD from my TD4 freelander and i was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to start it and which way of doing it is best?
Many thanks
COlin
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The ignition key on my series 1 Disco 300 TDi, is sticking and will no longer turn in the lock, tried all sorts but it will not budge. The key can be removed and reinserted but wont turn.
I am planning on ordering a new barrel/lock but would like advice on removing and fitting etc. I have searched the forums but cannot find the info here yet.
Thanks in advance.
They are easy to change.
Remove wheel (+ airbags collar if applicable)
Remove cowling
remove stalks
then drop the colmn as low as possible and get a sharp small chisel or punch and knock round the top of the 2 threaded studs that hold the barrel clamp on the column.
pull out the 2 plugs that are behind the drop down cover on the drivers side (one brown one and a white on thats in the fusebox)
Replacement is a reversal of removal. I can do one in about 20 minutes.
Rergards
Colin
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The basic engine is exactly the same and if you have all the other bits it should be easy.
Many thanks Jim,
I thought as much but wanted another vote of confidence before i go telling my cuatomer it will fit!
Thanks again.
Colin
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Guys,
Can anyone shed some light on a question for me?
Im not sure if i can cross sell the td5 engine, in other words will the disco td5 engine fit straight into the defender of the same age?
There may be differences in turbo connection but if you already have a dead defender engine can you scavange the bits off it to swap onto the disco engine to make it fit?
Many thanks
Colin
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That is a tracker. Would of had an aerial wire and power/earth wires. Looks like a fairly old one anyway.
nice one fellas, As knowledgable as ever.
Its in the bin now!
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whats the web site written on the battery?
Its just the battery manufacturers website.
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Hi im stripping out a top spec W reg disco at the moment and i have found this
It was located behind the panneling just under the rear drivers side alpine window.
It looks like some kind of bomb!
No discernable manufacturer apart from the piggyback battery manufaturer who is Yuasha
Im wondering if its anything to do with the webasto water preheater that was installed?
It also had rear aircon too, maybe a temp sensor for the rear climate control but why the stand alone power supply?
Any ideas?
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If you used an auto box in Drive with the "props" locked then you'd be able to show the engine under load and demonstrate running under boost, no black smoke, no head gasket issues (pressurising under load) etc. Of course, this could mean that you have to write off engines which you'd previously have sold. Depends what value you place on reputation and repeat custom. (I'll point out that I've bought bits off Skanny with very good service).
If you're smart you could use the cooling water to heat your office too...
All good suggestions guys.
I just need to find the time to make the damn thing in beteen breaking and posting bits out!
Running them under load is not 'so' much of an issue as we drive what we can before we take it out othe vehicle to check under load etc etc.
Im just after a simple way of sheading potential customers traditional views of breakers yards, being that you buy something and hedge your bets as to whether it will work or not!
Can anyone tell me which wire is required for the +12v for the stop solonoid?
And does +12v make it stop or make it start!
WTD List of land rover dealers in the UK
in International Forum
Posted
Hi Folks,
Can anyone direct me to a list of all the official Land Rover dealers in the UK?
I dont want to go on the LR website and search for my nearest, I need a list of all of them, preferably online so I can copy and pase the info.............
Any help apreciated
Thanks
Colin