Robert Jan
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Posts posted by Robert Jan
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I have a fairly new set of Stahlwille tools, both sockets and spanners. There's no slipping whatsoever, there just isn't any movement at all.
A lot of oil to soften the dirt seems worth a try, but isn't it mainly stuck because it gets to endure so much force while braking?
Given you're saying they're stuck, I'm guessing the socket Jim mentions isn't working? Sadly because of where they are you can't get a grinder to them so I've had success with the 'bash a smaller socket on' method, ahead of taking the whole hub or swivel off to put it in the vice and drill it out. -
Any good ideas on how to loosen the bolts that hold the brake caliper?
They are very stuck indeed and I don't want to ruin them without suggestions from the lot of you :-)
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Had a look at my Def 110 (2000) front brake calipers in preparation for their removal and noticed the bolts that hold them are not the normal type.
They're basically a sort of "sun with rays" shape.
What kind of bolt is this? Apart from the strange bolt changing the caliper seems not to be very complicated. (Although my experience is limited thus far to series drums.)
/RJ
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Its the angle and shape of the cone on the end which actually makes the seal. The old and new one are the same in that respect, new one will just stick out further.
Thanks everyone for your answers.
/RJ
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One of the brake bleed screws on the rear axle (disc brakes) of my Defender 110 from 2000 needs replacing.
according to my dealer it is part RTC1526 which is what I find everywhere else too.
But, the one I bought is 35mm while the one on the brake now is 29 mm. ???
Alright, it does fit, but it sticks out and it doesn't look to be a perfect fit inside.
It isn't a good thing to gamble with either. It is difficult enough to stop a 110 with the brakes working.
Any ideas on the forum? As in this case bigger doesn't seem to be better.
Robert Jan
Removing front brake caliper - Bolts very stuck
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just to be sure; I assume the bolts are normal thread i.e. they tighten clockwise. The workshop manual doesn't mention it to be otherwise, but that is no guarantee.