smacsor
-
Posts
61 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by smacsor
-
-
This is what you want
-
I have never fitted a 'dud' new Air Flow Meter, out of about 5 or 6 so far. But it is possible to have a fault in the cable to the ECU.
I don't know what exactly it does, but the engine runs a lot better when it is working. The normal reading at idle is 46-7 kg/min. When you rev it it goes above 100.
Quite possibly? But the fact that a main dealer is prepared to replace 5 of them FOC says it all really!!
-
My advice is to read what a MAF sensor is. You can start here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_airflow_sensor
Then you'll be able to reply your own question.
At but the real purpose of the TD5 MAF is to tell Testbook that there's a fault when there really isn't!! Had three new genuine new ones and it still says there's a fault!!
I heard of one customer who tried 6 from LR before he found a good one. Luckily LR accepted that they were shi*e so replaced them FOC.
-
If you ring a LR Main Dealer that has worked on the car before (and therefore has it on their computer records), and can give them the VIN, they will give you the code over the phone.
I was sceptical but read this advice on a forum and needed my code so tried it and after a 3 minute phone call, I had it with no charge.
Not great security though?
Simon
-
Hi Simon,
I had a 3 bolt on my old RRC, I swapped this for a 4 bolt unit which worked fine, I then decided to buy a D90 1992 which had 6 bolt on it when that failed I put the 4 bolt on to that, so I guess they all fit, the only thing you may need is a pipe from the pump to the box, I remember changing this on the classic.
Possibility for the other posts;
Take the reservoir cap off and see if there is any bubbles in there when the engine is running, I changed my pump last week but initially I thought the box had gone as it was covered in fluid, in a nutshell the pump had failed and blocked the cycle of the fluid building pressure up in the reservoir it they sprayed out of the breather in the cap.
Cheers Zulublue!
Now I'm wondering whether it is the pump and not the box!! I definately have bubbles in the reservoir when the engine is running so your explanation could explain why there was fluid on the underside of the bonnet and I can't get the box to leak on full lock??
Think I'll change the pump first and go from there?
Simon
-
I'm struggling to locate a suitable 3 bolt box. My local specialist says they are becoming harder to get suitable ones because of the age and lots are too worn to rebuild.
Is the 4-bolt a straight replacement or should i keep looking for a 3-bolt one??
Thanks,
Simon
-
I've been having the same problem on my 1985 90.
But this morning after taking her out with the usual lack of assistance (and a bit of squealing), I noticed a poll of steering fluid on the drive and when I opened the bonnet it looked like is had been forced out under pressure as it was everywhere.
But once its warm, its fine and I've tried to test in on hard full lock but there's no sign of a leam now, so I don't where its failing?
I guess this must be a knackered pump?? Is replacement a doable job for a novice whose willing to have a bash?
Simon
PS. I guess this one takes priority over my heater!! The list gets longer........
Apologies...I'm getting confused!!! It's the box thats leaking rather than the pump so my question is whether that needs replacing and how easy a job it is.
Ta.
-
I've been having the same problem on my 1985 90.
But this morning after taking her out with the usual lack of assistance (and a bit of squealing), I noticed a poll of steering fluid on the drive and when I opened the bonnet it looked like is had been forced out under pressure as it was everywhere.
But once its warm, its fine and I've tried to test in on hard full lock but there's no sign of a leam now, so I don't where its failing?
I guess this must be a knackered pump?? Is replacement a doable job for a novice whose willing to have a bash?
Simon
PS. I guess this one takes priority over my heater!! The list gets longer........
-
Ahh yes smacsor is talking about the fan control lever. It does go through the dash and fits to a control arm on the side of the heater box.
You could release it from the control arm and see if the arm moves. If it does then you know your cable is the culprit.
It may then need resetting or simply be seized.
Many thanks...most helpful.
Yes, I did search but couldn't find the specific info. Will have a go tomorrow!!
Simon
-
I need to sort out my heater in the 90.
Not so much because it's bleedin' freezin, more so that I can see out of the windscreen.
The fan lever to the lhs of the instrument binnacle is the culprit. It's always required herculean effort to move it to the point where I fear it would bend, but it now seems pretty solid.
Where is it likely to need easing? Behind the dash or somewhere else??
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Simon
-
I noticed today that the hinged fuse box cover below the steering column was rattling and on closer inspection the LH receiver for the turnbuckle catch is completely missing so the cover is only secured on the right hand side.
I can't see how a new receiver would fix to the fascia? Had a quick look on Microcat and it looks like there are two parts, a bracket (BTR4264) and the receiver (AFU4131) but the exploded diagram is too small to see how the bracket attaches?
Does anyone know how this fixes on before I order the parts?
Thanks,
Simon
-
Simon, I may sound a bit pedantic, but there ain't nothing like a dumb question, you are the one who askes the question, but rest assured, the question and answer is of great value to all.
Thanks..that's what I like about this forum. Not precious and everyone so willing to help. I have saved a fortune by from the advice given by those more knowledgable than me, so have happily made a small donation.
Cheers,
Simon
-
Its a normal characteristic of a Td5 auto, yes. Should stop once you are at a standstill if it is the noise I think it is.
Thanks a lot..that's put my mind at rest. Yes, it stops at standstill.
Ta very much.
Simon
-
I'm really sorry if this is a stupid question but until my just acquired Disco TD5, I have never owned a diesel (always hated 'em before I found Land Rovers!)
Mine is an auto and when I cruise to a stop at a junction for example with no load at all on the engine and no throttle, rather than the engine revs dying off cleaning it "chugs" or "hunts", for want of better terminology. Everything else runs fine and smooth,
Is this a normal characteristic of a diesel or is something amiss?
Thanks,
Simon
-
orrr i could ask my old chap niceley and we might be able to send you a TD5alive map on a new ECU
Ah see.....my ignorance is now catching me out on first post?? Who tis "the old chap" and how easy would this be for a complete ignoramus like moi?
S
-
Hello everyone,
I've come over to the dark side from the Defender forum as have just bought a Discovery TD5 Adventurer Auto.
Not sure what happened really, but I do know that I'm not allowed to keep them both so the 90 has to go.
Really, really pleased with it except need more power so I can see a covert rip to TD5 Alive or Twisted Performance on the cards. Now if I can just combine it with a business trip so she doesn't suss????
Simon
-
what sort of price is it likely to cost?
They advertise on Ebay at £2k plus Vat for a 200 or 300 tdi fitted.
Simon
-
I replaced exactly the same part a couple of weeks ago!!
It's FRC7652 and I paid £8.10 plus VAT from local Main Stealer.
Simon
-
OK...I'm persuaded to keep the 90!!
But will save up and pay someone to stick a V8 in sooner rather than later.
Thanks for all the advice.. I would probably have made the wrong decision without it.
-
I've been getting a bit disillusioned with 2.5 petrol power (lack of) and scary fuel consumption.
If I had the time, space and knowledge, Id stick a V8 in and I don't mind carp fuel consumption if fun comes with it!!
I have the chance to swap my 1985 90 for an 89 Classic Rangey 3.5 EFI in really good nick with 119K on clock.
Is this a fair swap or should I just sell mine and buy something else??
Ta,
Simon
-
that one is for the later 'smooth' roof vehicles, where the external ribs on your roof were moved to the inside. you could make 2 U shaped brackets to hold the upper outer corners to the inner gutter.
one here that doesn't use upper mountings
Cheers Ralph...now I understand!!!!
-
I'm still confused!!
The side fixings that Ralph has on his makes sense but most of the guards I've seen second hand don't have this.
It's this type of thing that is confusing me... http://www.travall.com/media/pdf/TDG1003%20iss0.pdf
The drawing here shows a roof channel on the inside between the headling and the roof? The headling on my 90 stops before the area where the guard will and the underside of the roof is smooth here. I could drill through the roof as the are are will be covered by the external roof channel, but doesn't seem to be what this fitting guide is showing?
I just don't want to buy one and find it won't fit!!
Simon
-
I've been looking out for a 2nd hand dog guard for my 1985 90 but I'm slightly confused by some of the fitting instructions I've seen? The bolts onto the bulkhead look straight forward enough, but some diagrams show a top bracket which screws into a u-shaped roof channel that runs the length of the vehicle.
My vehicle doesn't have this channel - the underside of the roof is smooth. Are there two types of guards?
Assuming the correct type for mine just bolts to the bulkhead, what stops it flopping around at the top or are there side fixings? Any pictures would help?
Cheers,
Simon
-
There's a company on eBay repairing doors at £100 a pop, or you can buy repair sections from places like...
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.com/page2.htm
Edit: Upon further inspection I can't find the eBay one anymore, maybe I was seeing things
No you didn't imagine in. This is the company....
http://www.landroversuk.co.uk/index.html
Simon
You know those old parts that you can't find a use for?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Boredom is a terrible thing........