DefcoL
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Posts posted by DefcoL
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On 2/6/2024 at 5:05 PM, vulcan bomber said:
Can you not make your own? I plan to do this on my 110 one day
it is a time scale issue for me, once the old chassis and bulkhead removed, there will be less than a week to get it all back together and road fit. I have never made even a simple loom, let alon a complicated one.
Well for me it will be complicated to do and collect all the correct fittings in time. So a quick fit with all new parts is the ticket for me.
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On 2/7/2024 at 9:19 AM, Paul C said:
I have a new PRC8243 bulkhead loom that I bought but didnt use for my project, I am not sure if that is what yours is, but it is 200tdi.
Message sent.
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20 minutes ago, Hawklord said:
I got mine from Autosparks.
Thank you i will call them.......... ok called and spoke to wayne but they do not have on their system. they do have the engine harness but not full loom.
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Good afternoon all.
I wish to buy a new full wiring loom for my defender 110 hardtop 1990. I have been looking for weeks on the web (and searched here) but cannot find a supplier of
full and complete looms. I am ordering a new bulkhead and intend to also work on the chassis once body is stripped and removed. So the right time to replace all wiring.
Can any one here let me know who makes/ sells them and if possible post up a link.
Thanks in advance.
Lawrence owner of Barny.
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On 2/1/2024 at 8:59 AM, Snagger said:
judicious
I like the terminology.... Yes, I somewhat rather doubt, that there will be a hung jury on this point
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On 1/29/2024 at 8:43 PM, hurbie said:
the simple fix is : fix the rear brake's .... they last forever when repaired propperly ....(and a lot less work then fitting disc's ...)
Very true Hurbie.
The issue is when stood (and it does for extended periods) the expander corrodes and binds the pistons. one reason why the xeng handbrake was fitted to the disco was fault free use.
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Hi and thanks for reply.
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15 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
The proper way to do it is to swap the stub axles and hubs for the later 300Tdi type, and then the standard caliper brackets, calipers and discs will all just bolt on.
You can reuse the old halfshafts, but they don’t have the stub axle seal land and so your wheel bearings will run in axle oil and not grease. Some say this is the better setup.
Thanks for reply. the rear drums are the main issue for me, looking for simple fix.
19 hours ago, Paul C said:I am about to swap disc's onto my drum Salisbury but I am using all the old parts from my disc Salisbury that I upgraded. I used Ashcroft shafts and LOF brakes so replaced the hubs and stubs as well to give me the spares for upgrading the drum axle. All the parts are available.
Very nice work.
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6 hours ago, tuko said:
As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle.............................
Hi and thanks for reply, I have information that that a longer propshaft will be required, are they available?
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31 minutes ago, Snagger said:
You can keep the existing Salisbury, including stub axles and half shafts, if you use the hubs from a 200Tdi or earlier Defender, 90 or 110. The 300Tdi/TD5 rear calliper brackets will fit the axle without making any brackets or new bolt holes. Aligning the 110 rear callipers with the discs may involve shimming or skimming the calliper brackets but should pose little problem.
I did find the inner hub nut didn’t wind down far enough onto the outboard hub bearing initially, but using the thick washer that I think came from a Discovery rear axle, it worked perfectly.
You will need to change the master cylinder to suit the callipers.
Hi and thanks for reply. will the disco master cylinder and chamber fit or is a rear disked defender one that is the preferable choice?
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Hi, some of you may know me from 4x4Goods that i used to run, it has been many years since i posted. why now? well I have a landrover 110 with salsbury axle. I would like to install disk brakes to the rear.
Are there bolt on kits to do this and if so, do you have a link for me?
Alternative, I still have my disco 1 tray back that ibuilt in 2007. it has an uprated 300tdi (149bhp fitted by gigglepin) this is fitted with an ashcroft stage 1 auto box and the transfer/B goes to axles with ARB fornt and rear the front is fitted with ashcroft hardened shafts and cv's.
The trayback has stood since 2015 for personal reasons that mean i will never use it again. Question is should i swop the drive train or parts of it to the defender? there might be too many issues for that. ?
So I am wondering what advantage would swopping just the axles for better brakes/strenght, as am fed up with constant rear brake part need.
I dont think swopping the enging and box would aid me as i will only use the 110 on road except when accessing good locations for my photography hobby. (I may do the scottish 500 in it)
Your thought/advice/suggestions all welcome as retired with time to read.
thank you all
Lawrence Horne.
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if you can get fedima sirocco 285/75 r16 that stand at 35.5'' Rolling Diameter then they would sell
all day every day............ they dont. they do stand at 33.5'' and the 35/10.5r16 stand at 36''
measured today.
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The truck is a little changed now from when I first traybacked her (WeeGen)
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Hi,
after having some '35' fedima's that actually measured 36.75 does anyone know what the 285/75R16's truely come out at??
this is in the Sirocco pattern.....
I read that they shoul dbe 33.5in but has anyone actually had them to measure themselves?
cheers in advance
joe
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I have picked up a low grumbling noise when driving my disco, happens when driving straight or turning left, noise stops when turning to the right, sounds like it's coming from front passenger wheel, any help very much appreciated
Wheel bearing does this, the noise goes when turning due to reducing the play(on the rolling surface). Sometimes you can cure the noise by adjusting the hub nut to give the correct amount of play for the wheel bearing, however when they start to rumble it is best to replace them. In addition it is best to replace both bearings (inner and outer) on both sides of truck as they would have most likely done the same work
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I'm looking into doing a trayback conversion to my 3door disco.
I have a pair of numax cvx batteries with an x-charge system. They're currently mounted on a D44 tray where the rear bench would be.
Once trayback'd, the only place I can think they would go would be outside, along with fuel tank & rear winch tray. Is it ok for them to be exposed like this?
Pictures of people's set ups would be brilliant.
Thanks.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12075
This might give a few ideas as it also includes one made by OG
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or Phil @ Winch Repairs in Liskeard
checked the other links :devon 4x4, frogs island, Arbil, main importers and seems price is ott. i'm looking for a brush set foe a M26626 motor at a realistic price for what they are. looks cheeper to buy a motor.
any pointers welcome.
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If I can fix the Carb (it has an SU with a shattered plastic float!) in time - it will be at the next Boxgrove play-day near Chichester. You can come and laugh when something else breaks!
It's already got two winches - and possibly a third if I can figure out a way of fixing it in place. When I designed it, nobody used 3 winches!
What sort of fairlead are you referring to? I looked at ones from Winch Solutions & Gigglepin - but the diameter of the bar is only 16mm or so - so only 8mm radius. I think it needs to be bigger as, particularly pulling sideways, a small radius tends to break ropes.
I made one for my yellow 90, now fitted to my 110 with a 25mm radius and that works pretty well. Unfortunately, the 'pudding grade' Aluminium has started wearing at the corners - so maybe something like HE15 or Dural would be better?
Si
How annoying ...just gone through two days without broad band (I was 1 of many 1000’s) and no explanation from onetel.....but at least I have it back now.
When is the next boxgrove day and do you have a post code for it? never been there what is the site like? is it similar to Slindon?
re the fairlead, I was thinking something with a large radius to for the very reasons you mentioned but made from 316 marine grade stainless for longevity. Something with a 30+ mm radius like in this pic (32mm rad)
Did you manage to get a float yet? are they all the same size? I dont know much about Su's
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If I can fix the Carb (it has an SU with a shattered plastic float!) in time - it will be at the next Boxgrove play-day near Chichester. You can come and laugh when something else breaks!
It's already got two winches - and possibly a third if I can figure out a way of fixing it in place. When I designed it, nobody used 3 winches!
What sort of fairlead are you referring to? I looked at ones from Winch Solutions & Gigglepin - but the diameter of the bar is only 16mm or so - so only 8mm radius. I think it needs to be bigger as, particularly pulling sideways, a small radius tends to break ropes.
I made one for my yellow 90, now fitted to my 110 with a 25mm radius and that works pretty well. Unfortunately, the 'pudding grade' Aluminium has started wearing at the corners - so maybe something like HE15 or Dural would be better?
Si
How annoying ...just gone through two days without broad band (I was 1 of many 1000’s) and no explanation from onetel.....but at least I have it back now.
When is the next boxgrove day and do you have a post code for it? never been there what is the site like? is it similar to Slindon?
re the fairlead, I was thinking something with a large radius to for the very reasons you mentioned but made from 316 marine grade stainless for longevity. Something with a 30+ mm radius like in this pic (32mm rad)
Did you manage to get a float yet? are they all the same size? I dont know much about Su's
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Lewis
water ingress on mine stopped when I fitted a breather to the gearbox
maybe worth a thought?
tony have you got a pic of it ? and how easy is it to install?
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Thanks For the order Simon; you seem to have made good time from your place.
Didn’t realise you were going to have a go at fitting them your self. Hat off to you.!
Had you said; I have got a walk round set up you could have had as I don’t use it. Four hours; would like to have been there sound like entertainment
When are you taking it out for a good try out? Let me know as I would like to see it in use. Are you going to put a winch on it? Cos I know where you can get a real good fairlead for it
Lawrence
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Well someone has to ask; so I will.
Going to a "car boot" sale with a trailer, say with an engine, axles, doors, hubs and various other weighty bits of metal in order to get some extra pocket money. Total weight of your LR + trailer + parts = 3.5t or more. Seems that you (by law) must have a taco.
What should the LR community do to stay within the law?
if they have to get a taco, where and what are the costs? What is the up keep? What are the insurance implications? What are the MOT implications?
For Car booting it may be better to get a Van, OR is it?
When dose it cease to be a hobby and become a business? I.E. Trade shows.
For me there is no question, but for many others it seems a vital question.
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What off roading have you done?
Only ask this, as my belt shredded and turned out it was full of impregnated stone/grit flakes that cut into the belt.
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I don't have any personal experience with the kit, but I have heard nothing but praise for it. And any other X-Eng kit for that matter!
I have the X-springs ... am totaly pleased, as i am with the X-brake.
Have to say that product and service is second to None.
Wiring looms - replacement
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
New loom arrived from Paul in NZ. Top seller who does as he says. Loom looks top class. Would buy again from Paul .