[brake servo]

i am going to change the brake servo on my 110 and was wondering can anyone tell me is there an advantage in using the later defender servo / master cylinder as opposed to the early 110 type currently fitted?

[Gearbox Woes]

check the bottom of the gearstick as on some the ball is sleeved in nylon and when this wears it can cause selection problems .

[Blind Spot Windows]

or you could always just take the rear quarter windows from a hardtop and fit them in the sides.

[Rear Crank Seal]

in the absence of a hoist a piece of scaffold pole or a fencing post can be laid from dashtop to the bulkhead behind the seats and a ratchet strap slung from it to take the weight of the gearbox ( a bit course i know but needs must n all that ) i managed to replace mine last time without removing the seatbox although it did involve removing one of the mounting brackets from the side of the qearbox. hope this helps

[Rear Crank Seal]

it is perfectly possible to replace the oil seal as you suggest without having to totally remove the gearbox from the vehicle.

[Rear Crank Seal]

Is it best to drain the gearbox before removal (to make it a bit lighter? and to have it in the air a bit?)

I was wondering last night if it is possible to change the rear crank seal without removing the gearbox? Can I just slide the gearbox back 7 or 8" and support it there, then replace the rear crank seal and slide the gearbox back into position? If that is possible it would save the effort of lifting it out.

I want to do as little as possible as I haven't got that much time, and it was useable if a little noisy but if there is anything I can do quite quickly/cheaply whilst I'm this far in then I may as well do it.

Those springs sound a good place to start - when you say take the top off the gearbox which bit do you mean?

Cheers