M.I.B
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Posts posted by M.I.B
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3 Tab screen is a generic replacement screen - OEM (factory) front heated screens have only 2 tabs.
So here's the question - If you have wiring for a 2 tab screen ( ie factory wiring) what happend when Autofit want to give you a 3 tab screen?
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The requested topic does not exist.
I think it's a bad link maybe?
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A few heated front screens on offer, and a fair few people doing "plug and play" wiring kits.
I know that some skilled person on here has drawn up a "DIY" wiring diagram, but when you price up all the components and postage from each of the suppliers (ouch) it cost the same as a complete kit with wires all fitted ready to go.
The trouble is that the screens are all 2 tab, and the plug and play kits for my fascia/switch style (06MY) are for 3 tab.
Can I fit a 2 tab heated front screen and just use 2 of the feed wires? I would leave the thiird wire wrapped in insul tape for the day when the heated screen gets replaced by Autoglass with a 3 tabber.
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the scans.
Very useful.
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Thanks James & Ralph.
Owners manual is missing. Haynes is on the way.
Appreciate the help- Haynes can be misleading on things like oil spec.
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I searched here and on google and I either got conflicting info or none at all.
Vehicle is a Feb 07 (06 MY) TD5 110 County.
Please can someone let me know or confirm:
What type of brake fluid? DOT 3 or 4 or?
What type of Coolant/Anti freeze?
Oil for a standard engine (2.5 TD5) - 5W40 Fully Synthetic A3 B3/B4 ?
Gearbox oil = -MTF94 or FTF 94?
Finally - threads - metric or imperial?
A million thanks in advance (tried to donate but the Paypal option is broken!)
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No I looked when I was at Home and I'm now "here" with a laptop and no history.
Good idea though.
Thanks.
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http://www.dogguardsandcages.com/images/TDG1088.jpg
This what you were thinking of?
Yes - that's more like it, but the one I saw was full width.
Thanks.
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Peter - you have a PM
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Before Christmas I saw an ad somewhere for someone selling a wire meshed full size inner rear door with a lock. I think it was listed as a dog cage door or similar. Now I can't find it.
I wasn't dreaming because I saw the same thing on a County for sale on Ebay as well. Full sized inner rear door with its own lock.
Any idea where I can find such a thing - I have looked everywhere online again, including Ebay. No luck.
Thanks.
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There is no bleed screw - this is a typical sensor failure. Buy a new coolant tank.
Sensor checks the level, not the constituents of the fluid so you can have it full of beer - it dopesn't care as long as it is full.
Don't forget that 100% and anti-freeze mixture will freezebefore a 50/50 mix. I can't remember why, I did learn why a long time ago in advanced chemistry, but have since forgotten, because I just know that it does.
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TY Paul
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If the same as my '98 110 CSW, standard alloys require a 27mm socket to remove the nuts. Pillar jack and wheel brace stowed in a black bag under the second row seats. Wheel chock and security nut remover under passenger seat.
Thanks.
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Your jack could be one of several types stored in different places depending on what model you have.
110 County. Feb 07 build. Medium spec - but not the XS model.
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56 plate td5 County.
I fancy a pair of XS spec heated front seats. Is it an easy task to swap them over - is the wiring lurking somewhere ready to clip into?
Is there the right wiring already hiding behind the centre console waiting for me to fit switches - or do I have to start completely from scratch?
Thanks.
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Just bought a 56 plate TD5 in the UK before disappearing back overseas for a while. Missing one or two pieces so I need to order some stuff.............Couple of what might seem odd questions - but I can't just pop outside to check for myself:
Rear wheel carrier - stock steel wheel on it. - What size socket to remove the wheel nuts?
4 road wheels are standard factory alloys - what size socket to remove the nuts (or are they studs?)?
Does the factory fitted spare wheel cover come in one size just for standard steels with standard size tyres, or are there different sizes of cover?
Where should the jack be stored when not in use - it's currently missing from everywhere I looked - is there a better alternative item. No need for an accessory high lift jack - it's staying at standard hieght.
Thanks
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Peter Best seems to have great prices for "classics" and heavily modded, but less than 10 years old or unmodifed and he's not a lot of cop.
Ran out of time and had to go with Flux.. Ouch, but it's done............................
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I'm in fifties modified Series V8 etc, limited mileage £35 per year plus brokerage. Brokerage is two times the insurance cost!
Are you going to say who dishes out respectale quotes like that? Sounds right on.
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As ^^ just a case of ringing around. It seems very random - I paid around £180 with Adrian Flux 2 years ago. Then at renewal time with no claims or changes over the year they quoted around £800 and wouldn't budge despite their claimed 'price match promise' (they threw up so many obstacles it was easier to go with the other quote). A year with sureterm later, they beat everybody else on the same vehicle, same cover, still no claims and no change in details. I don't understand it really.
My vehicle has some mods so it's made me lean towards getting a nice, standard 300tdi or TD5 and have the luxury of being able to use comparison sites!
Comparison sites come up really cheap if it is your daily. We have 2 dailys which really are dailys and I can't get them any lower.
Got a call booked with Flux tomorrow - fingers crossed.
Rang one firm today and I got the feeling they didn't beleive me when I tried to insure it as a stocker - should have told them it was modded to bits and hacked about as well......
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Get secure, private, off-road parking.
Choose a high excess (Mine's £1000: I have a pet lawyer in the family so recovering any excess from 3rd party is not going to be a problem).
Live in a low-risk, rural, low-crime postcode.
Be in a low-risk 'professional' employment category - Company Director, Accountant, Doctor, Dentist, Business Consultant - or something like "Retired civil-servant". Avoid anything with "entertainment/arts" or licensed-trade overtones.
Look at a single policy to cover all your vehicles, conditional on only one being used on-road at any time.
Join an appropriate owners-club: often the annual membership fee is less than the discount on insurance available to members.
Nice tips - was aware of those and still got nothing "decent" in the way of quotes.Going to try the NFU route as listed earlier.Like the sound of the one at the top, but no reference to any insurer. -
Maybe you'd be better off with a multi vehicle policy on one of your other cars and add the Defender to it? Might be cheaper than a stand alone policy?
Multicar worked out much more exensive for all of them. I can get the 110 way down but then the Passat estate goes sky high. And there is no question of ditching it because that beasty eats big motorway trips in a way only LR can dream about.
Suppose it depends on how much shopping around you are prepared to do also? Being standard is a big help as it is a case of "nothing extra to declare" but as soon as you start adding the toys it can really hamper finding insurers as some are not actually sure what a roll cage is let alone what air locking diffs really are.
It's going to stay stock so no need to hide mods.
Try your local NFU office(find local office to call direct or pop in!!) Nice tip - will try that. Thanks. Or just pick up a LR mag and starting ringing
Tried that today - not a lot of joy because it's not old enough for classic insurrance. -
Any hot tips on insurance - I know it differs for lots of folk, but are there any "avoids" and any "hot tips"?
46 with full NCD, standard '06 TD5 110 County and happy to do limited mileage - this is the 3rd car in the family so it'll only get used properly not as a daily.
Thanks in advance.
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I have heard it called a sunroof by many soldiers, especially to wind up officers, but escape hatch - that's stretching the imagination a little.
It's neither - it's for soldiers to stand out of with their rifle pointed to the sky to ward off MIGs and HIPs and HINDs.... "Air Sentry" it used to be called - not a pleasant job in winter in Germany, driving down dual carriageways.
Then when the Cold War ended, and we only fought bad guys after their airforce ( if they had one) had been neutralised by our own. So the need for air sentries died out, so we stopped ordering sunroofs on our Rovers.
No-ne ever called them "landies/landys". Always Rovers.
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Making a mock up discharger is easy - a few bits of the right diameter pipe and a base with a MOD plate on it.
Don't forget the weather proof caps - thaty remainon allthe time to keep the smoke cans in perfect working order.
They are a one shot deal - press the button and all 4 fire at once. The grenades don't go particularly far and if you get the wind direction wrong, you end up filling your escape route with smoke instead, which is not a clever thing to do when you are reversing away from an enemy ambush......
It's more effective to throw hand smoke out of the windows instead if there is a spare crewman who isn't firing off something more deadly at the enemy at the time.
All in all they are a useless piece of kit.
Heated Front Screen - 2 Tab or 3 Tab?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks.