[Discovery 300Tdi Auto - t/box and g/box breather pipes?!]

Quick update.

Removed the centre console and went in from above while tackling a seized TB linkage. Both pipes now extended and sorted.

[snorkel qeustion please dont hate me :)]

I've just done this myself and IMHO, the only snorkel that can be made to fit is a genuine Safari snorkel for a Discovery with ABS - and even then it's quite a faff. Even if your D1 hasn't got ABS, you'll still need this snorkel because of the way the pipework enters the airbox down the side of the inner wing without going anywhere near the AFM. (You might be able to do it with a Mantec one too but I've no experience of these.) As you've got virtually no room to play with because of the AFM, I can't see how a cheap copy snorkel can be made to fit and you may need to return this or sell it on and get yourself a new or used ABS Safari one instead.

Basically, once you've modified the airbox, you've got to reposition the AFM to get it to line up with the airbox, then you need to trim the airbox-AFM rubber hose in order to get it all connected. By the time you've done all this (swearing allowed - and indeed inevitable!), you'll already have realised that everything's now fouling the EGR pipework, which leads to yet another 'little' job .....

Your 'road map to paradise' is here: http://land-rover-discovery-1.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/fitting-safari-snorkel-to-japanese.html This took me ages to find but it definitely saved me a lot of time in the end.

HTH

Dave

[Seized Transfer box linkage query - 300Tdi Auto]

Hi all

Hopefully this'll be a quick and simply query for someone with more technical knowledge than me.

I've got a 1997 D1 Auto (Japanese import) with the usual seized transfer lever issue, due entirely to a lack of use and preventative maintenance on my part as it all worked (stiffly) when we first got it.

I've accessed the transfer lever from above, removed it, freed it off, regreased it and refitted it, reattaching the linkages exactly as before. It now engages and disengages diff lock easily but still refuses to budge as far as H-N-L is concerned. (The auto gearbox is in Neutral, the transfer lever is stuck in H as before.) It's obviously now nothing to do with the transfer lever itself so I've checked the H-L linkage and it's fine, nothing's broken and both clevis pins move freely, which led me to the pivot-lever thingy on the end of the cross shaft housing on the transfer box itself.

I've had a pair of grips on this pivot-lever but it's not budging at all, although (as yet) I haven't tried to really force it (nor hit it with a hammer!) At the moment I've just left it soaking in penetrating oil.

Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Am I right in assuming that this pivot-lever moves in a slight left to right arc? If so how much force can I exert on it to try and get it to move? Trouble is, I'm not entirely convinced that this pivot-bar is actually seized despite having the main gearbox in N, hence my reluctance to really force it.

Is there another way of ''forcing'' the lever to move from H to L on an auto box other than when stationary with the main gearbox in N? (I haven't as yet tried it 'on the move' switching from D to N. Might this work when all else fails?)

Am I missing something else here?

Suggestions/ advice gratefully received and thanks in advance for all help.

Dave

[Discovery 300Tdi Auto - t/box and g/box breather pipes?!]

> In reply to Paul Woodward:

Thanks for that. The photo in the link is very useful and at least I can now try and feel for where the pipes exit the two boxes to see if I've got the right ones.

> In reply to S Pendrey:

Thanks for the info and I too think the pipes must come up between the bulkhead and the block but no, there's no sign of them. I've removed the pipe going from the Airflow Meter so that I've got better visibility on the airbox side but unfortunately there's nothing to be seen. Also, unlike my previous manual trans 300Tdi, the space between the back of the block and the bulkhead on this one is crammed with electrical cables encased in sleeving so there's no chance at all of getting a hand in there - or seeing anything in fact. I suspect this extra cabling may be because of all the emission control electrics as it's a Jap-spec vehicle.

I may have to bite the bullet and remove the centre console, drill out the metal plate etc and take a look from above - something I was keen to avoid if there's an easier alternative as it's a lot of trouble just to get at a couple of plastic pipes!

Dave

[Discovery 300Tdi Auto - t/box and g/box breather pipes?!]

Some advice would be most appreciated please.

The vehicle concerned is a '97 Japanese-spec Discovery 300Tdi Auto.

I've already had a monumental struggle to fit a Safari Snorkel due to the position of the air flow meter which is fitted to all Jap spec Discos and I've now come up against another problem while extending all the breathers into the snorkel.

So far, all the breathers have been done apart from the 2 from the gearbox and transfer box. Unlike my previous manual g/box 300Tdi, where they were easily found, there's no sign of either of them exiting in the engine compartment. Having removed the front prop for better access, I can just about get my hand in and feel for what I think are the 2 of them on top of the gearbox, but I can't be 100% sure that it's them. If I've got the right ones, both are very tight with no play whatsoever and my guess is that they're either firmly attached to the bulkhead behind the engine or are equally firmly zip-tied to one of the many cables running behind the engine.

I know that I could try and cut them by feel on top of the gearbox and extend them from there but at the moment I'm loath to do this as I'm not 100% sure that I've got my hand on the right ones as there's clearly some electrical cables there too.

So has anyone else come up against this problem on an auto Disco and if so, how did you solve it?

All suggestions/ advice very gratefully received.

Dave

[Strata florida first timer.. help]

PM me with your exact requirements (eg grid refs, route beta etc) and I'll do what I can to help. Strata Florida is not a 'secret' in any sense of the word.

[Just watching " My Family's Crazy Gap Year"]

Having extensive experience of driving in Namibia, this type of rollover accident is all too common. It's also one that all the guide books and other drivers warn you about. The unsurfaced roads are well graded but can have loose material on the surface. Also you have inadequate road signage, eg. bends for the next 20km, and that's it. You're ok driving fast(ish) in a straight line provided you don't have to make a sudden swerve, but you really need to slow down for bends. If you don't then it's either a sudden "off", or a controlled tail out oversteer drift a la rally style. (My wife's quite accomplished at doing these in a Hilux! ) This obviously wouldn't be possible with a trailer in tow.

As for watching the GPS rather than the road, as well as probably going too fast as well as driving in the dark - words fail me .... A totally avoidable accident by a "all the gear but no idea" type of driver IMHO. They were very very lucky to get out uninjured.

Dave

[What do you do when you meet a rut?]

A lot of kit, lockers included, are overkill for greenlaning. As said previously in this thread, if you need lockers on a green lane, then you should really not be driving it!

IMHO, you should have front and rear diff guards (basic ones protecting the diff pan work well but QT ones incorporating a slider are a better design but cost more), front and rear recovery points (jate rings are fine, or a tow jaw on the rear is ok too), a steering guard (some (most?) incorporate front recovery points) and perhaps a fuel tank guard as well (depending on the vehicle in question.) A 2" lift is a good idea as well as bigger tyres (265/75-16 or 235/85-16 should be big enough). Basic recovery gear is also needed - shovel, tow rope or strop, high lift jack, shackles etc.

Don't forget that a lot of the builds on this forum are for competition use, hence lots of winches, lockers, simex, tree sliders cages, etc. These are not really needed for green lanes.

Agreed.

There are plenty of threads on here about what kit to take off greenlaning - none of it is too extreme. It does depend on what you want to do and where you want to go.

Your best move would be to find a join a local club where you can get good advice on what you actually need before you spend money on what you think you need. For example, I have a bag of recovery kit in my shed that I have never used! The local club comes with added advantages of helping to discover where the lanes that don't have deep ruts may be, and some simple tuition/advice.

Good advice, provided there is a local club. There isn't one anywhere remotely local to where I live. Most of the lanes I drive here in Wales are rutted due to natural erosion/ frequency of use/ tractor damage etc and if I literally took some of the advice posted earlier in this thread, then I'd never end up driving any lanes at all. In many cases, you can't tell what a lane is like without driving it. Even lanes you're familiar with can change dramatically after a single extreme rainfall event and quite often it's impossible or impractical to simply turn around. You may even end up getting stuck while turning around. We drove a lane last Sunday and both vehicles got stuck and had to be towed free. Thing is, I'd driven the same lane, solo, in one of the same vehicles with no problems at all less than a week earlier.

The best advice is probably to get out and inspect the terrain ahead if in any doubt, especially if travelling solo. I always try and stop at a spot where it's possible to turn around and I'm not afraid to inspect a long way ahead on foot. As they say, " discretion is the better part ..."

Whilst you are at it have a look at David Bowyer's site and follow the "Learn with David" link in the left hand frame.

Again, well worth a look.

Hope the comments I've added to Martin's thread are of some help.

Dave

[300Tdi ZF auto gearbox query]

The ZF auto gearbox in my 1998 300TDi Disco (mileage 72K) has suddenly decided to go on a go slow when the tranny oil's cold. It'll now only select 1st in D and reverse until the oil's warmed up, then all returns to normal.

I'm initially going to change the oil & filter and also replace the gearbox governor and O rings in the hope that this'll cure the problem. I have access to a pit and have no problem with changing the oil and filter but I've not done the rest before and would like some advice please.

1. How difficult is it to remove/ replace the transfer box on this gearbox? Are there any particular issues etc?

2. Are there any particular things to note when replacing the governor itself?

3. Am I right in assuming that the governor and O rings will be main stealer order parts only? Any idea as to cost?

Any advice/ comments will be gratefully received! Thanks.

Dave

[WARNING]

It may or not be common knowledge that Powys CC have very recently given Tom a "Park and Picnic" permit since he was/ still is in breach of planning regulations regarding change of land use (from agricultural to recreational). This permit is subject to review by Council officers. The new permit does not allow use of the land for 'play and pay' purposes, but no doubt there will be a liberal interpretation of the rules by Tom and his paying 'guests' and it'll be business as usual, at least in the short term. Despite rumours to the contrary, the site is currently open, confirmed by my wife who was horse riding on adjacent land yesterday.

However, how long it'll stay open is more uncertain. As it is, the Authorities are not best pleased with Tom and there is much history. There have been significant animal welfare issues in the past as well as serious breaches of H&S regs in addition to the planning issues. In addition, the unacceptable behaviour of a minority of users have seemingly been observed and filmed by Council staff and supported by evidence from the police, who have had a regular presence on the public highway leading to the farm as well as by the totally disproportionate number of ambulance and Air Ambulance callouts to the farm. Perhaps, not surprisingly, there seems to be little, if any, support from Tom's neighbours and other local residents, some of whom have made numerous formal complaints.

I have some sympathy with Tom from an economic point of view as well as with his battle with the authorities. But I also can't help thinking that perhaps he's also the unwitting victim of exploitation by users who've gone there and behaved in an extremely selfish and disrespectful manner. IMHO two things are clear: (1) things can't continue as they are now and (2) matters seem to be coming to a head.

I think it's a clear case of 'watch this space ......'