Thys Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 If ever you want to confirm the condition of your shocks, choose the worst known tarred road and drive on it at the town legal speed(60km/h) and the secondary road limit (100 km/h). Thats how I came to the conclusion that something is shockingly wrong. Jim you may know the stretch of road I am referring to; it is the road from Zwartkops racetrack down to the Sesmylspruit. Just to confirm my fears I took my Discovery to a local test center, and they got front road grip % values of 45% and rears of 37%. The norm for OK is 65% or better. Now comes the fun; I started phoning for prices. The advice differs widely, from top of the range like the OldManEmu, down to standard types like Armstrongs. I do not do grade 4 & 5 trails. I do travel on bad dirt/farm roads. If the road or path is really bad, I do it at a crawl. Ok so why do I have a Land Rover: my town cars cannot be used efficiently on the off-tar roads, and I like my Land Rover. So I made a cost vs distance and cost vs duration, based on my driving style and type of roads, not allowing for fitting, as I do it myself, and the standard shock gives the best break even value. What am I missing here? Skokbrekers.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoJo Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thanks for the comparison. I'm busy with the same excercise, got a quote for Koni Heavy Tracks at R1680 excl vat. These are certainly pricey but with a life time warranty the price / km will be 3.8 c @ 200 000 kms. Let me know what you decide on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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