spawneydave Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 my first post so be gentle with me I recently procured a 200TDI from a Defender which I decided to fit into my part renovated series 3, Having read as much about this operation on the net as possible I set to and removed the 21/4 Diesel, not everything has been as per stuff I read on the net so here is my findings so far. Prior to removing the engine I checked the new engine as I was expecting to have to install 4 extra cap screws at the bottom, but was surprised to find that this engine already had those in place, also the studs are M10, but the studs in the old engine are also M10 into the aluminium with UNF at the other end, so I could if necessary fit those to the new engine. Also the Defender bell housing had only had 11 holes, but the position for the 12th stud is present so I would be able to fit all 12 to my hybrid. Also the M10 nuts fit ok so I decided to keep those as having 3 bolts at the bottom make it slightly easier to align I was not so confident in the engine mounts as all the available info said I should transfer the mount from my 21/4 to the 200tdi, the nearside is no problem although it has to be installed to the forward set of holes, but the drivers side has an elongated mount to take it under the fuel pump, whilst the other mount would have fit the chassis exactly, the position of the fuel pump means that there is no room to fit it & the pump also lands on the chassis extension. The best solution that I could think of was to use the defender mount & cut & modify the chassis extension to suit. Didn’t really want to start butchering my shiny new chassis but could not see any alternative so here goes. having taken careful measurements the engine is back out & I am tidiying the cut & fabricating a new mount to fit, unfortunately it will have to be painted. I was a bit surprised by the need to cut as its not mentioned in anything I have read elsewhere although I think most of the conversions have used disco engines ? Hope this is of help to anyone else with a similer project & I would appreiciate advise all be it a bit late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 This is a proper Defender Tdi into an 88", yes? If so then yes the RH chassis mount does need altering to clear the low mounted IP, this is the same as fitting 12J or 19J. Its the Disco lump with its higher mounted IP that needs no mods to the chassis brackets. The cap screws at the bottom of the flywheel housing are why on a Defender Tdi its not possible to drop the ladderframe to remove the oil pump, pistons or access the shell bearings on the crank with the engine still in the frame, on the disco those are hex head bolts that go thro the gearbox bellhousing. but the studs in the old engine are also M10 into the aluminium with UNF at the other end Unless a PO has been making oddball studs thats totally wrong, the originals are 3/8"UNF for the nuts and 3/8"UNC in the alloy, put them in the Tdi flywheel housing and when you tighten the nuts(assuming they will go fully home) it will probably strip the thread in the alloy as 3/8" is smaller than 10mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spawneydave Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Unless a PO has been making oddball studs thats totally wrong, the originals are 3/8"UNF for the nuts and 3/8"UNC in the alloy, put them in the Tdi flywheel housing and when you tighten the nuts(assuming they will go fully home) it will probably strip the thread in the alloy as 3/8" is smaller than 10mm. thanks, yes thats correct 3/8" UNC same pitch but 15 thou less OD, fortunetley i have used the M10s as theres plenty of room for the larger nuts. new bracket welded in so looking good, now for all the intercooler plumbing & stuff . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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