Gromit
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Posts posted by Gromit
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I have a 2005 TD5 110, and I've stripped the splines off the short rear half shaft. (The VIN year code is 5H)
If I am reading microcat correctly, the part number is TOB500020 for half shaft from VIN year 2A on.
This is £40 on paddocks and lrseries, compared to say £16 for the pre 2A half shafts.
Is this correct, or am I missing something?
Thanks,
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if you shorted the relay socket under the drivers seat and the pump didn't make any noise, you can apply 12v to the top of the pump before you remove it, to see if there is any life in it.
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Does it still have the EGR in place? Could be sticking.
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They had the extra heat exhanger, something to do with emissions and Euro III/IV I believe?
The later one has an exchanger for the EGR gasses on the front of the block. Irrelevant really if you are removing the EGR.
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I emailed him (irbdevelopments@btinternet.com, though it was probably 12 months ago now) and got ERG, decat and straight mid pipes. He did sometimes take a while to reply, but am very happy with the components.
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I've had a TD5 Hard Top as my daily for about a year. Had a 200tdi CSW before that. I always fancied one because of the sound of them
Now I can actually overtake with relative ease At this point, all the common problems are documented. Oil in the loom, fuel pumps dying / regulators leaking, MAF sensors going, oil pump bolt and plastic dowels in the head on the early ones.
I've had a few small problems.
The fuel pump relay was not seated correctly, leaving me stranded for a while, as it took a while to find the problem. (I'd had the truck a week!)
After starting, it'll occasionally be in no-boost/limp mode for about 15 seconds, before it returns to full power. This I assume to be the MAF or MAP sensor playing games, but the problem is so intermittant, it isn't a problem at the moment, and isn't getting worse.
The fuel economly is awful. I clocked it once at about 28mpg and haven't done it since. This is with muds and a roofrack.
If you like driving one, then go for it. I personally love mine. None of the problems are going to be mad expensive, short of a cracked fuel rail or other head problem.
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OK - presumably on a Doublecab it should be as per the CSW?
I don't know, but I'd imagine so.
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FYI, the rear outrigger mounting point that you would find on a CSW is absent on a HT.
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Mine is non-liner too, but my light comes on exactly 1/2 way into the orange segment, which is a bit too late really.
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One of the reasons I have a defender is that I HATE cars that are smarter than their drivers; headlights that turn on automatically in the dark, automatic parking brakes, <BONG> your keys are in the ignition, <BONG> the door is open, <BONG> you shouldn't be allowed to drive etc. etc. However, for my arrogance, the gods have seen fit to have me leave the parking lights on a few times, and it might only be a matter of time before I come back to a dimly glowing truck with a flat battery.
So, I think I should wire up a lights-on warning 'buzzer'. Wiring it isn't a problem, but I don't want a buzzer. I'd like a single "by-the-way dude, the lights are on" beep rather than the usual "YOU F*&"£$£$G MORON, YOU ARE GOING TO DIE, DIE, DIE, DIE, DIE" claxon type affair usually found.
So, where would I find such a buzzer/sounder before my battery goes fla..... ?
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My inner geek is loving this thread
Great stuff guys.
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yes I know, I've been meaning to look for the photos again, as the original ones were lost from photobucket.
The originals may be on one of 3 machines, but I'm unlikely to get to looking for them for a while.
Anyway, the job is easy enough, though some things may need a bit of fettling, which takes time.
The biggest PITA was getting the window channels out. Keep a drill and drinder handy.
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Agreed - time to get shouty with Customer Services.
(You could also have a quick look and see if there's any oil in the gearboxes.
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He replaced a leaking rocker cover gasket, started the engine to check it was fixed, then poured petrol over the engine to rinse the oil off.
Priceless
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Sounds like the dipped beam relay to me. The pink one behind the dash.
It supplies power to the main headlamps at a lower level when the sidelights are on. It can be bypassed I believe by joining two wires together, but I'm not sure which ones exactly. I'm sure I've seen a post on the forum about it though!
yep, pink relay is the dimdip.
Bypassed by removing it and joining pins 2 and 8. Both wires should be the same colour - blue / red trace.
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Truck all reassembled, just waiting for the original item to surface
Bet it's in the ashtray
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Had this a while back, and it was the head light relay. It's the left most, or 2nd last in the fuse box. Mine just needed to be cleaned up and reseated.
As above, check the main lighting switch hasn't melted and the dim-dip relay, if you have one. If you do, it's best just to bypass it.
My fault was very intermittant. I drove around for about 2 months, with no column shroud or fusebox cover and multimeter and wiring diagram
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the 4 cylinder 2.5 engines including the 200tdi are driven by the camshaft via a shaft.
By real, I meant non-land rover engines.
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no, as there's coolant running through it. It is normally just banked off.
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And as for all-time bodges you only have to look at the chain-driven oil pump (I ask you).
Out of complete ignorange I ask, how are the oil pumps on real engines driven?
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I think fridge has a point, which is the reason the TD5 is viewed with such skepticism my many LR owners, because it has among other things (in this day and age, shock horror) an ECU.
As such, posts like this are great.
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Just looking at the pictures. Did you pull the camshaft first or does it all waggle out around the timing chain in one piece
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Oh and don't use a camera phone unless it's a really good one.
I would say, find a friend with an SLR. Having really good photos makes a huge difference to the number of calls, and it's not difficult.
A wide lens will let you shoot impressive interior shots and imposing front shots.
Used correctly, it will also allow you to get all those underneath shots correctly exposed, even on a bright day. Something which camera phones are just rubbish at.
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All of the bulkhead
Behind the 2nd row doors on a 110 CSW
Rear A-frame mounts.
Now I can actually overtake with relative ease 
Post 2002 half shafts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks Ralph!