landylro

The engine was checked by specialist engine machinists but they are 150KM's away so can't get them to hear it although they admit theres probably not much point. , engine was meticulously rebiult, lots of time spent preparing all main components block heads crank etc by steam cleaning including oil cap rocker covers manifolds dip stick dip stick tube you name it we cleaned it.. small brushes through all oil and water gallerys , crank block etc making sure everything was spotless, bearing tolerance to specs checked everything corecttly lucbricated etc etc we were cautious about a speck of anything getting intot he engine... We spent over half a day cleaning the already realtively clean parts we got from being machined, then 2 days tro put the engine together, you can wack an engine togtehr I guess but we checked all tolerances and cleaned/chased all key threads after so much effort etc its why I am a bit Mildly miffed and stumped at what the issue is... Not the first engine I have rebiult first to have this issue though. Oil pressure 4.5 x 100 bar at start up moving to about ,.8 when hot 94C at idle fitted external VDO oil pressure guage. So oil has been no problem new oil gears although it really didnt need them and all parts from Turner engineering i.e pistons, ALL bearings valve lifters, rockers camshact etc etc... nothing cheap used on this far from it and EVERYTHING replaced. I also had a proffessional mechanic helping who has biult a number of engines. The bores were not so oval or worn as to require anything mnore than a 2 thou hone so why rebore , the liner issues were largekly resolved by the changes made to these later so long as the liners were fitted correctly and mine were checked. I thoughyt it was a long shot asking here as everyone inoloved professsioanlly with the motor trade hasnt been much more help except to say strip it down and identiify the issue anything else is a guess. Not to keen on thicker oil in a new tight motor although it may get away with it. I run the same oil in my other LR V8 and it the LR specced oil here...so cant be that. We will try an tie the noise to a cylinder by doing some spark testing matched to noise then check top an bottem end of that cylinder which will give us the issue. thanks anyway. Happy New year

I seem to be plagued with issues accross both my landrovers at present maybe they have decide to take a xmas break !! I just rebiult my 2003 V8, new pistons rings, bore hone, camshafts, rockers, lifters, all bearings water pump, oil pump all new hoses etc etc. All bearings were plastiguaged and a lot of time taken to do as close to perfect a rebiuld as possible. I Ran the cam in for around 20 mins at 2500 approx rpm and engine ran fine with no noise using an SAE30 oil. Changed oil filter oil to 10w40 ( with 1220 ppm zinc )as recommended for my conditions and am not sure when exactly the noise developed but at around 80km I noticed what I thought was a tappet noise only when the engine reaches around 94-100c ( this is about the max temperature based on ECU info from the inlet manifold temp sensor). I thought perhaps it could be a valve lifter which as unlikley as it seemed I changed all the valve lifters anyway for another new set!!! The noise still exists and if anything has worsened as I have now driven 400KM ( also now changed oil and went from Penrite to Castrol same spec but no change to noise) I have also have a significant oil leak from the front of the sump gasket ( yes new gaskets were used and appropriate sealants where specified) only once the engine is hot. Its been suggested crankcase is pressurizing same issue happens with oil filler cap removed not sure if that affects it as I dont understand the crankcase pressurisation possibility. It has been suggested to me its a dropped liner but I had read on the Robinson US website that the V8's from 2003 on dont drop liners due to a manufacturing change in the block by Landrover to try an address the issue. One ssupposed local expert has told me what Roninson states is wrong and the blocks never changed in respect of location of the liners ..... Motor doesnt use coolant. Have run engine removing one spark plug lead at a time to see if the noise changes but the noise stays the same. The noise is definetly temp related as there is absolutly none on start up or until engine gets hot, noise getting worse the hotter the engine gets. At the moment ther only option I seem to have is to remove and strip the engine and fit Darton sleeves.... note the people that did the heads and all the block work including a light skim on the block didnt find anything to indicate slipped liners. All they found was an unusually ovality on the central cylinders not on the thrust side but on the opposing cylinder walls which nowone could explain. So far my wife tells me I have spent the princely sum of 20K AUS( yes this car has had a lot of new bits,...) on this car ( yep I have spared no expense) and as much as I dont want to do another engine removal/strip etc I am too commited to this car not to get it 100%. Appreciate all your help and ideas.

I seem to be plagued with issues accross both my landrovers at present maybe they have decide to take a xmas break !! My 93 RR classic has started to lose coolant when hot from the coolant bottle i.e a short say 10KM trip is fine but on a longer trip when all is fine until you stop at which time the coolant overfills the expansion bottle and proceeds to exit under the coollant overflow bottle cap to the extent it emptys the bottle !!! On shorter trips this does not happen at all. I have so far replaced the expansion bottle cap with a new Bearmach one to ensure it is sealing correctly etc but the problem still exists. I wonder whether the engine is just getting to hot although the temperature guage stays in the middle the viscous fan is tighter when the engine is hot but it can still be turned so it doesnt fully lock up ( not sure if they are ever meant to as my Disco 2 V8 never completely locks). Could it be the thermostat ?? Any and all ideas appreciated, otherwise engine runs fine no coolant visible in oil and wasnt using coolant prior to this.

I have just bought a 2003 Disco 2 4.0 fortunately it was cheap as I know despite its service history it needs some work, it done 170000 KM. It currently has a rear main engine leak ( I pulled the crank inspection plugs and I can see and feel black oil on the back of the flywheel, also after cleaning the whole motor and after only a 200 metre drive oil was dripping from the very bottom of the bellhousing only) it also is leaking from the front of the crankshaft. I have also been told I should pull the heads and check them for warping although the engine does not use coolant I am adviced this is a good maintenance measure. I need some advise as follows; I figure from what I have read about the oil pump I will obviusly be checking this and likley replacing the front crankcase cover along with oil gears. Should I pull the engine and work on it out of the vehicle or remove the gearbox and work with it in, I do have a pit so can remove the gearbox and have good access under the vehicle. Does it make sense to pull the heads and check for warping if I pull the heads should I dissamble and check everything, valves, valve guides rockers et As I will have the sump off should I check the crank, bearings, pistons........ just how far do I go otherwise I will end up dismantling the whole engine and I wouldnt mind using it sometime soon.... I seriously appreciate all the help and advice this will be my 7th Landrover but aside from a S3 2.6 rebiuld some years ago this will be the most work I have done on any of my vehicles myself but I cant afford High Street repair costs. I am struggling to know how far to go on this but I do like things working 100% and done properly.