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Posts posted by Grant.
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Berkhamsted. Hertfordshire, hp4
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Hi all.
Hoping someone can help me.
Got a p38 dse that will crank but will not start.
I have no fuel coming out of the injector pipes what so ever,and the pump in the tank isnt running either.
I can get the pump in the tank to run if I bridge the relay in the engine bay, but when you turn the key neither pump does anything, even the tank pump at position 2.
I was told that it will more than likely be that the BCM has lost its code, and I will have to re enter the code from the ECU into BCM. However, I also have no communication through the obd socket with any computer I have or have tried, have tried most computers. From snap on and Delphi, to proper all bells and whistles Bosch computers., but nothing will get in through the obd socket. I've been told that I may not be able to get in through the obd socket if the car is immobilised, so I would need the eka code. But I can't understand why I would need the eka code when the car still cranks? Or will the car still crank but not run? (Heard it won't do anything and basically becomes a paperweight till you enter the code! ?)
I'm hoping someone will be able to shed some light on this one, as I've tried now for days and I don't seem to be getting anywhere and I'm going grey now! ?
Thanks in advance
Grant
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Hi there,
as far as i understood the Baromatric and the inlet pressure should be nearly identical at idle, as they were on the other vehicle aswell.
Yep they are bosch sensors.
Thankfully found the problem, turns out it was the boost box which had a fault that was reading low on the MAP pressure, not sure what caused it, bypassed it. So now it goes like a train! Just gotta get a replacement box now...
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Hi all,
Got a slight electrical problem with my TD5
on Live data, the MAP pressure is a lower value than the barometric pressure by about 25 kPa, when i unplug the sensor i get a default value of 100kPa (same as ambient). even when you pick up the rev's the MAP pressure only climbs a small amount.I replaced the sensor, and the values stayed the same.
I've got continuity through the earth to the correct ECU pin (pin 17) and i have the 5 volt feed to the MAP sensor (pin 8).
However, when i compare to my discovery, the voltage value is 3.99v back to the ECU (pin 6), and on the defender i get a voltage back of 1.40v. (pin 6)
absolutely confuddled at the moment.
Is it just another dodgy sensor? or am i missing something?
thanks in advance! -
STOLEN: BEAVERTAIL IFOR WILLIAMS TRAILER IN BERKO
Had my trailer stolen from the Berkhamsted area in hertfordshire last night at about 11:15/11:30
In the process of confronting them my truck was also hit and damaged with the trailer
The trailer will be distinguishable with more than likely severe damage to the front drivers side corner where it hit me, has a hand winch on it, a very used/ropey bed, a hand winch and a knackered spare tyre on the front carrier
Any information contact me on here or contact the police direct
All help will be appreciated
Thank you
Grant
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Doing that will mean that the fuel pump will not switch back off if the motor is not running. This function is controlled by the ECU. So whenever the ignition is on the pump will run and pressurise the system.
Its all off the ignition switch and an additonal fuel pump isolator switch, so the pump still switches off when the ignition is switched off, and is also switched off when the isolator is off.
But yes, when the ignition is on it will run the pump and pressurise the system.
I did that because a friend who had done the conversion previously had a problem where the fuel pump would cut out when he was cranking the engine, which meant that it was a pain to start, thought I would eliminate that and keep with the bit of the system that worked.
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I was under the impression that the later ones DID have the amp on the dizzy, or was it removed really late in production( 98- or summat?)
Certainly the late 3.9s you talk about had the amp on the dizzy for sure... have you got a mix and match parts setup there?
The even later ones had them on the front panel next to the rad mount on an ali plate that acted as a heat sink, not sure why they changed it again, as all it did was give more things to go wrong! Good old land rover!
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You talked about having the fuel pump wired up directly, but what have you done for the Lambda sensors as they are also powered from the fuel pump relay (or are you not running any by changing the tune resistor?)
Ive left all the original loom in place, so both relays are there and clicking, Just used the original fuel pump power feed and relay, as it was already relayed and was alot easier to work
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Got it running in the end, was duff wiring in the loom between the Dizzy and the coil. Put a slightly earlier dizzy in which had the amplifier bolted to the side, which eliminated more guesstimated wiring and plugs, (instead of on a heat sink plate on the front panel), reset the timing, plugged it all up, vroom!
Thanks very much for all the help again guys, much appreciated as always
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Ok, got relays to now click, was some bad earths, bought the amplifier required, made up the little bits of loom to make it work, and still, no spark! any one got any other ideas? Me and my mate are running out of options at the mo!
Cheers
Grant
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figured out the amplifiers missing ( Doh!) and, i dont think the coil is wired correctly tbh, have that wiring diagram off of another thread on here, but the colours are slightly different.
Also, the wiring setup I have is the most modern setup, so the amplifier isnt attached to the side of the distributor, and I cant find the right amplifier or diagram to suit.
Checked the earths on the back of the head, and there all ok, had the relay clicking randomly earlier, but it clicks regardless of the ignition switch poisition
Cheers
Grant
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Hi all,
Putting a range rover v8 in my 90 (late 3.9 efi)
Neither the main relay, or the fuel pump relay are clicking, however there is power getting to the relay (fuel pump one is irrelevant, as its already wired up), and I know the relays are ok, as it was all pulled out of a running car.
Ive got:
1x big brown and orange wire (has power constantly)
1x big brown and green wire (has power constantly)
2x small brown and orange wires (havent checked)
1x small blue and red wire (havent checked)
Can anyone tell me where current is meant to be flowing from to in this instance?
more than likey ive wired something incorrectly!
anybody able to shed some light?
Thanks very much in advance
Grant
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Hi all,
Just in the process of fitting a v8 in my 90. fitted tubular exhaust manifolds to it, however trying to find any information I can regarding if I need to fit the lamda sensors in the system still or if i can leave them out?
Any solutions if i have to do anything?
Tried goooogling, but theres a million answers, and nothing set in stone!
Many thanks in advance
Grant
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Hi all,
Need to make/obtain a suitable locking pin for the crankshaft on my KV6 freelander, has anybody got any dimensions for the locking pin for the crankshaft? I know there's a step on the pin, but dont know the diameters required, and cant find the information anywhere.
Thanks very much in advance
Grant
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Progress update...
Ive chased the wiring through, and tested lots and realised that the starter relay isn't earthing out. I've heard that the 10as unit has something to do with the earthing of the relay? Still no oil light, and a dim charge light. However I reckon there not related. Any ideas people?
Thanks in advance
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Would the engine still crank though? Or will that stop everything? Worth swapping with another one. The box did take some serious persuasion to move...
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Earths drfinately on. Checked the loom. Can't see any damage. Even put a jumplead from the negative terminal on the battery to the starter to eliminate that. I thought it might be the 10as. Read somewhere there was a way of shorting it out? To bypass it?
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Oh... And neglected to mention, the dash has been out aswell. But can't find anything there wrong...
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No... Didn't check that one under the seat, only the one in the middle... Thought that was it? Not sure about the oil light fault. And yea. That's on. Also put a large lead straight from the starter casing to the earth of the battery to see if that cured if. But still nowt!
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oh, and ive swapped relays around, to eliminate that!
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Hi all,
Just done a clutch change on a td5, put it all back together, and now, got nothing on the key (starter position), the charge light glows a bit,(but not like normal) and the oil pressure light isnt on. I can short across the starter motor to get it to turn over, but nothing else(as in, it wont run). i dont get a click from the starter motor relay either.
Anybody got any ideas as to what ive done wrong?
Thanks very much in advance
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Can be, il pm you my phone number and you can give me a ring
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does that mean you want me to build another rear body grant?
Ive still got all that 100 inch bodywork sitting here!
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if you could make the rear doors to sit more over the wheel arch and therefore you sit more over the wheel arch, (like a disco) then surely its very doeable ! would allow a longer door aswell. like the dunsfold ones i guess....
P38 non starting headache
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
The obd socket is receiving power, and I checked the fuse under the dash and that was also ok.
Il look tomorrow evening and test the resistance and see if I have any joy
Thanks for the help so far
Grant