yan46

Thanks once again. Massive relief as I'm moving to my new house next week.

Right so some very good news. The td5 is all up and running, happy days. Thanks V8 Freak it turned out to be my new Crank sensor was faulty. I removed it and fitted it to my mates td5 and guess what, his engine wouldn't start. Also Ally V8 you were right about my original ecu with those short peak charges- ecu was broke. Why on earth didn't my nanocom pick up the crank sensor issue from day one? Maybe because my old ecu was broke, nanocom couldn't pick up the crank signal issue. And I thought all along it was fuel issue and hacked out an access panel for a new fuel pump, new fpr, new seals and washers. Thanks for the map too V8 Freak. What a massive relief. Thanks to everyone who helped and gave me good advice. Really appreciate it. All the best Yannick

As Simon says I'm getting around 3.8 bar. Now I've got the NNN ecu I'll do the purge process a few times and get someone to squirt in some easy start. To my knowledge TD5s don't really like easy start. Everytime I've tried the whole electrical system goes AWOL. Like the battery loses all its power and fuel gauge needle goes all over the place. Engine chokes badly. However Tdis seem to get on with easy start. I've seen those shims but unsure if it will make any difference. I might as well get one being on a fiver.

yep that's what I done

Nanocom has that feature and yes I can hear the click from all injectors

I could recheck the injectors and while at it replace the washers/seals with OEM ones. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly as I've done this job a few times successfully on my other TD5's I once owned. I could have had a lapse of concentration and did something incorrectly.

Good point however I was pretty much careful while changing the seals so I'm unsure how these faults have turned up.

I believe I fitted a new crank sensor not so long ago too. I will have to check if wires on the loom haven't broken off but I'm sure I checked and they looked fine. Thanks for that Neil. Regards Yannick

Fuel pump is fine. I did fit a new one. I also had the injectors out last month to do the washers and seals. I know I bought aftermarket washers and seals (I know not a good idea) and I remember the new washers were very loose when fitted to the injector tips. The I.D of the aftermarket washers seems to be slightly larger than the OEM ones as they are a snug fit I believe. Could it be possible that these aftermarket copper washers are letting air into the system thus preventing the engine from starting? I remember everytime I fitted the new washers to the injector tips and rotated them 180 degrees in order to slide them into the bores, the washers would fall off. So I had to resort to dropping the washers into the bores and then fitting the injectors.

Fuel pump is fine.When i fitted the NNN ecu and did the purge process i couldnt hear air swishing in the fuel tank. Whereas with my old 'faulty' MSB ecu I couldn't even do the 5 times foot to the pedal purge process(being old) and every time I switched ignition on I could hear the air in the fuel tank. I probably wasn't making myself clear.

Thanks for confirming. I could always try a Defender map but even with it I doubt it would start the motor. That's very kind of your friend. Engine is EU2 10P.

so connected jump leads to my other landy (300tdi) and cranked the motor. Turns quicker but still won't start. Its coughing and spluttering alot with white smoke. It's like the injectors are not getting enough fuel. Ran the nanocom after all the cranking and I got an extra fault 'noisy crank signal has beendetected'. Any ideas anyone?I'm at a loss.

I did the learn security code feature and nanocom said ecu is not immobilised. Let's see what your friend says

I thought the NNN000120 disco ecu would work on a 1999 defender. Maybe I'm missing something out with my nanocom. Yes do let me know thanks.

So I sourced a Disco ECU NNN000120 connected it to my defender and read the faults. Nothing bad apart from a road speed missing which I've never seen before. Cleared the faults with my nanocom. I've also changed the ecu to non immobilised. I then recoded the injectors. Noticed the needle on the temperature gauge has shot to red even though it's cold but I know it's because of the disco ecu. Still won't start. Ive cranked and cranked and loads of white smoke. Battery was at around 12.2v before cranking. It wants to start more than the previous MSB ecu I had. Also previously there was no smoke with my 'duff' ecu. I can no longer hear air whirling in the fuel tank since I fitted the NNN ecu and did the purge 5 times pedal down procedure. Any ideas why it won't start? Battery voltage too low? I did trickle charge the battery for a day and a half. This td5 is giving me such a bloody headache. I'm moving house in 2 weeks time and was hoping it would have started.

I'm based in Southampton. Yes there's definitely air in the system i can't seem to get out. I've done the ignition on wait 3 mins or so until the fuel pump stops and ignition off and repeat process about 6 times and nothing. If I crank the motor and stop and immediately try again, it wants to start but just can't. I inherited the td5 with the problem. I was told it ran fine until it was run dry of fuel. I've tried hooking the battry up with my car for that extra boost but nothing. Thought I'd plug my nanocom back and I got: my nanocom has now picked up INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). INJECTOR 2 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). INJECTOR 4 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). INJECTOR 5 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). I'm assuming these are old faults as they are 'logged'. Argh Td5 fuel system!!

Have not tried bump starting as space is pretty limited where I live unfortunately. I'd be up for trying it but I don't think my neighbours would appreciate me blocking the road if I couldn't get it started

I've replaced the small air bleed filter in the fuel filter housing already. That was the first thing I did.

Hi all, This is probably not the 1st time someone has mentioned this but my 1998 td5 70k won't start. It's cranks fine but just won't start. Apologies for the repeat in topic. I've been diagnosing the fault for ages to no avail. Firstly, I plugged in my nanocom and no faults recorded, which suggests a fuel problem. Before I bought a fuel pressure tester gauge I took out the old fuel pump has it was a bit noisy and replaced it with an aftermarket one. From experience changing the fuel pump normally does the trick. I performed the normal purging procedure. Ignition on leave for 3 mins until fuel pump cuts out, ignition off and back on and repeat process for like 6 times. Because my td5 is an early one the press throttle down fives and wait for MIL light to flash does not apply. Still won't start but it does seem to want to. So I thought Id change the injector seals and washers with aftermarket ones. I also changed the crank position sensor. I've had experience changing the seals successfully on previous jobs. Still won't start on this TD5. Changed the fuel filter and the tiny air bleed filter in the filter housing. Bought a new battery too. So then I decided to buy a fuel pressure tester kit and actually measure the pressure. I put together a t piece setup with my gauge and connected one end to the high pressure feed that goes to the regulator and the other end to the inlet of the regulator. Ignition on and I get 3.8bar. I then connected my inline setup to the fuel return line before the fuel cooler and I get 1.5 bar. I then connected the gauge to the fuel return line after the fuel cooler and again 1.5bar. Everytime I turn the ignition on the pump squeals for a few seconds before settling down. To me suggests I have trapped air and air is getting into the fuel system. Oil levels are fine and do not rise when cranking. So that indicates the injector seals are OK. I've checked the fuel pipes for leaks and cannot see anything. So lastly I recently changed the fpr and I measured the fuel pressure at the return line and got 3.5bar so I thought good it was the fpr. Then the next day I thought I'd measure it again to be sure and for some reason it measured 1.5bar again. I'm at a lost. I've probably got a duff new pump. Fuel in tank is pass the half way mark. Red ECU plug is dry and no oil. Relays seem fine and fuses. The fuel inertia switch is fine. Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.