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yan46

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by yan46

  1. Right so some very good news. The td5 is all up and running, happy days. Thanks V8 Freak it turned out to be my new Crank sensor was faulty. I removed it and fitted it to my mates td5 and guess what, his engine wouldn't start. 

    Also Ally V8 you were right about my original ecu with those short peak charges- ecu was broke.

    Why on earth didn't my nanocom pick up the crank sensor issue from day one? Maybe because my old ecu was broke, nanocom couldn't pick up the crank signal issue.

    And I thought all along it was fuel issue and hacked out an access panel for a new fuel pump, new fpr, new seals and washers. 

    Thanks for the map too V8 Freak. 

    What a massive relief.

    Thanks to everyone who helped and gave me good advice. Really appreciate it.

    All the best

    Yannick 

  2. 28 minutes ago, V8 Freak said:

    Received this from Simon...

    “OK here we go..
    She's been run dry, injectors out and been stood.
    Confirm the fuel pressure at the FPR where the temperature sensor sits. This is ideally 4 bar but 3.8 bar is adequate and make sure she holds that steady. I appreciate after faffing about it was holding at 1.5 bar however this could be for various reasons.
    If this is all good:
    Bleed her up using the bleed sequence (5 times on the pedal - which works for bot MSB and NNN by the way). Do this 3 - 4 times.
    Then... 2 man job.
    Give it a good snort of brake cleaner up the MAF whilst cranking her over. Start cranking first then start spraying up the MAF. May take a few seconds to start spluttering into life, then she should go.
    10p engines are notorious to bleed up after running out of fuel. 
    I also notice that the Crank sensor has been changed. If it starts throwing up errors it may need a shim under it. They are available form LR for less than £5. Even so it should still run.
    The injector peak charge short may well be down to trying to start with a low voltage battery as the 85v switch mode PSU in the ECU does drop quite quickly when battery voltage is low, so am not too worried about that at the moment.”

    As Simon says I'm getting around 3.8 bar. Now I've got the NNN ecu I'll do the purge process a few times and get someone to squirt in some easy start. To my knowledge TD5s don't really like easy start. Everytime I've tried the whole electrical system goes AWOL. Like the battery loses all its power and fuel gauge needle goes all over the place. Engine chokes badly. However Tdis seem to get on with easy start.

    I've seen those shims but unsure if it will make any difference. I might as well get one being on a fiver.

     

  3. 1 hour ago, V8 Freak said:

    Did you set the injectors with them on the cam (ie fully depressed injector side, rocker fully raised on the cam)

    When fully depressed by the cam, loosen the lock nut, screw the adjuster down until it bottoms out and then screw back out one full turn. Tighten the lock nut. 

    Do the same for all 5....

    yep that's what I done :)

  4. 1 hour ago, gerrymc123 said:

    Another thing, I haven't got a Nanocom but i have a Lynx, it can trigger the injectors one at a time and you hear the audible click of each one as it triggers which indicate there's nothing awry, if the Nanocom has that function it's always another thing eliminated.

     

    Nanocom has that feature and yes I can hear the click from all injectors 

  5. 32 minutes ago, gerrymc123 said:

    Could these showing up as faults not be the result of you disconnecting the injector harness to remove the injectors when you changed the washers and seals?

    BTW, make sure connector on the injector wiring harness where it exits the rocker cover is clicked into place. Also, that the injectors were bottoming out when they were set as i messed about for long enough wondering why mine wasn't starting after I read the procedure wrong and just bottomed out the locking nut when it bottomed out on the top of the injector! :o 

    I could recheck the injectors and while at it replace the washers/seals with OEM ones. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly as I've done this job a few times successfully on my other TD5's I once owned. I could have had a lapse of concentration and did something incorrectly.

  6. 1 minute ago, V8 Freak said:

    The Nanocom fault sounds like a potential issue with tbemcrwnl sensor?

    its quite critical as the engine won’t start without it.

    I’m going to do a bit of reading and will be back. 

    Catch up I’m PM to arrange to get the Defender map to you. 

    Neil

    I believe I fitted a new crank sensor not so long ago too. I will have to check if wires on the loom haven't broken off but I'm sure I checked and they looked fine. 

    Thanks for that Neil.

    Regards

    Yannick

  7. 5 hours ago, Ally V8 said:

    EU2 or 3 and 2 or 3 track throttle pot is not going to make any difference in just getting the engine to run.If the fuel pump isn't running its unlikely to want to start.(They will start and run without the fuel pump running but it relies on a fully bled and well sealed system) TD5's can be difficult to start even after the purge cycle has been done a few times,especially if the injectors have been out. Best thing to do is tow it up the road,making sure the fuel pump is running,its alot kinder than beating up the already weak starter motor.Also gives full battery voltage to the ecu. 

    Fuel pump is fine. I did fit a new one. I also had the injectors out last month to do the washers and seals. I know I bought aftermarket washers and seals (I know not a good idea) and I remember the new washers were very loose when fitted to the injector tips. The I.D of the aftermarket washers seems to be slightly larger than the OEM ones as they are a snug fit I believe. Could it be possible that these aftermarket copper washers are letting air into the system thus preventing the engine from starting? I remember everytime I fitted the new washers to the injector tips and rotated them 180 degrees in order to slide them into the bores, the washers would fall off. So I had to resort to dropping the washers into the bores and then fitting the injectors. 

  8. 10 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

    Just spotted you can't hear the furl pump any longer.... Check the inertia switch on the bulkhead inside the engine bay hasn't tripped.

    You should hear the fuel pump every time the ignition is turned on. (Even if it's not gurgling..)

    Fuel pump is fine.When i fitted the NNN ecu and did the purge process i couldnt hear air swishing in the fuel tank. Whereas with my old 'faulty' MSB ecu I couldn't even do the 5 times foot to the pedal purge process(being old) and every time I switched ignition on I could hear the air in the fuel tank. I probably wasn't making myself clear.

  9. 10 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

    Have an answer back. He says Disco NNN0000120 with Defender map should be fine.

    Wise to re-map it first as gauges will read wrong etc. but should start. "Should"

    Edit:

    He's just texted back and happy to send a stock Defender map for you to upload with Nanocom if you wish.

    He needs to know if EU2 or EU3 engine.

    Is it 10p or 15p engine / 2 or 3 way accelerator pedal etc.

     

    As it's 1998 I'd assume 10p / EU2 but please confirm.

     

     

    Thanks for confirming. I could always try a Defender map but even with it I doubt it would start the motor. 

    That's very kind of your friend.

    Engine is EU2 10P.

  10. 17 minutes ago, V8 Freak said:

    It's his birthday so will have to wait until tomorrow.

    I'm sure he said something like it will start and tickover but fuel / temp readings will be wrong etc.

    I don't know if programming a Defender map in changes this... Tomorrow should get us some good advice.

     

    To get the ECU and 10AS to talk, ignition on, Nanocom on, Defender/TD5/TD5 Engine/Utility and choose "Learn Security Code"

    Hopefully it will show as successful.

    I did the learn security code feature and nanocom said ecu is not immobilised.

    Let's see what your friend says :)

  11. So I sourced a Disco ECU NNN000120 connected it to my defender and read the faults. Nothing bad apart from a road speed missing which I've never seen before. Cleared the faults with my nanocom. I've also changed the ecu to non immobilised. I then recoded the injectors. Noticed the needle on the temperature gauge has shot to red even though it's cold but I know it's because of the disco ecu. Still won't start. Ive cranked and cranked and loads of white smoke. 
    Battery was at around 12.2v before cranking. It wants to start more than the previous MSB ecu I had. Also previously there was no smoke with my 'duff' ecu. 
    I can no longer hear air whirling in the fuel tank since I fitted the NNN ecu and did the purge 5 times pedal down procedure. 
    Any ideas why it won't start? Battery voltage too low? I did trickle charge the battery for a day and a half.
    This td5 is giving me such a bloody headache. I'm moving house in 2 weeks time and was hoping it would have started.
  12. 3 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

    Where are you based??

    The loud pump when initially turned on probably suggests either an air leak or fuel bleeding back out of the system somehow and needing to be pushed back up to pressure.

    Can you clarify when it last ran and if it’s run at all since changing the injector seals etc.?

    It really sounds like it needs bleeding through and it should run. 

    Mines a later td5 with the purge facility, but occasionally when I’ve released the fuel from the system even after a few purges it needs some cranking with the throttle pedal held down until it catches and then usually sorts itself out.

    Any chance of getting a decent boost from another vehicle while cranking with the pedal down to see if it does eventually catch?

    I'm based in Southampton.

    Yes there's definitely air in the system i can't seem to get out. I've done the ignition on wait 3 mins or so until the fuel pump stops and ignition off and repeat process about 6 times and nothing. If I crank the motor and stop and immediately try again, it wants to start but just can't. 

    I inherited the td5 with the problem. I was told it ran fine until it was run dry of fuel. 

    I've tried hooking the battry up with my car for that extra boost but nothing.

    Thought I'd plug my nanocom back and I got:

    my nanocom has now picked up
     
    INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). 
     INJECTOR 2 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). 
     INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). 
    INJECTOR 4 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). 
    INJECTOR 5 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). 
    I'm assuming these are old faults as they are 'logged'.
     
    Argh Td5 fuel system!!
  13. Hi all,
    This is probably not the 1st time someone has mentioned this but my 1998 td5 70k won't start. It's cranks fine but just won't start. Apologies for the repeat in topic. I've been diagnosing the fault for ages to no avail. Firstly, I plugged in my nanocom and no faults recorded, which suggests a fuel problem. 
    Before I bought a fuel pressure tester gauge I took out the old fuel pump has it was a bit noisy and replaced it with an aftermarket one. From experience changing the fuel pump normally does the trick. I performed the normal purging procedure. Ignition on leave for 3 mins until fuel pump cuts out, ignition off and back on and repeat process for like 6 times. Because my td5 is an early one the press throttle down fives and wait for MIL light to flash does not apply. Still won't start but it does seem to want to. So I thought Id change the injector seals and washers with aftermarket ones. I also changed the crank position sensor. I've had experience changing the seals successfully on previous jobs. Still won't start on this TD5. Changed the fuel filter and the tiny air bleed filter in the filter housing. Bought a new battery too.
    So then I decided to buy a fuel pressure tester kit and actually measure the pressure. I put together a t piece setup with my gauge and connected one end to the high pressure feed that goes to the regulator and the other end to the inlet of the regulator. Ignition on and I get 3.8bar. 
    I then connected my inline setup to the fuel return line before the fuel cooler and I get 1.5 bar. 
    I then connected the gauge to the fuel return line after the fuel cooler and again 1.5bar.
    Everytime I turn the ignition on the pump squeals for a few seconds before settling down. To me suggests I have trapped air and air is getting into the fuel system. 
    Oil levels are fine and do not rise when cranking. So that indicates the injector seals are OK. 
    I've checked the fuel pipes for leaks and cannot see anything. 
    So lastly I recently changed the fpr and I measured the fuel pressure at the return line and got 3.5bar so I thought good it was the fpr. Then the next day I thought I'd measure it again to be sure and for some reason it measured 1.5bar again. 
    I'm at a lost. I've probably got a duff new pump. Fuel in tank is pass the half way mark. Red ECU plug is dry and no oil. Relays seem fine and fuses. The fuel inertia switch is fine.
    Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated. 
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